FD Road Racers ONLY: Your Upgrades and Your Rationale
#76
Tri-Point uses the Greedy as their SMIC of choice also, RP has good Pics of the Greedy SMIC on their site - The complete kit is shown in the pic on the upper right of the page. (btw the core is shown upside down in the pic)
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalo...cat=9&part=110
Also note the part about INTERNAL fins in the core - makes for very good heat transfer efficency,
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/3catalo...cat=9&part=110
Also note the part about INTERNAL fins in the core - makes for very good heat transfer efficency,
Last edited by maxpesce; 12-05-02 at 01:21 PM.
#77
Ahh, so the stock flex hose still gets used with this kit, I see??!! I'm looking for a really nice condition used one...Don't be a Rikki had one for sale, but there's no follow-up on whether he sold it or not?
While I'm at it, I'm looking at used A'pexi Power FC's also. One guy's asking $1010 for the Power FC and commander...not sure if this is a good buy...
While I'm at it, I'm looking at used A'pexi Power FC's also. One guy's asking $1010 for the Power FC and commander...not sure if this is a good buy...
Last edited by SleepR1; 12-05-02 at 02:40 PM.
#78
Originally posted by SleepR1
While I'm at it, I'm looking at used A'pexi Power FC's also. One guy's asking $1010 for the Power FC and commander...not sure if this is a good buy...
While I'm at it, I'm looking at used A'pexi Power FC's also. One guy's asking $1010 for the Power FC and commander...not sure if this is a good buy...
#79
Something to think about in reference to the Greddy IC, especially in comparison to the PFS:
What are you gonna use for a duct? The greddy doesn't come with one, and doesn't mate w/ the stocker... this is HUGE... no SMIC will work well without fresh air flowing over it.
FWIW, you can coble something up, or order the duct from an old pettit SMIC, but thats a real PITA. The PFS comes with a duct that fits well.
If youre worried about the PFS intake "scavanging its air from the IC, its real easy to fab a duct to draw from beside the rad. like an M2 (easier than making an IC duct.) Or the PFS will work with a CWR or M2 intake... just plug the 2.75" outlet for the PFS intake.
Just my 2 cents, the Greddy is a nice IC, but as a kit, it isn't complete, and that makes the better price less attractive.
What are you gonna use for a duct? The greddy doesn't come with one, and doesn't mate w/ the stocker... this is HUGE... no SMIC will work well without fresh air flowing over it.
FWIW, you can coble something up, or order the duct from an old pettit SMIC, but thats a real PITA. The PFS comes with a duct that fits well.
If youre worried about the PFS intake "scavanging its air from the IC, its real easy to fab a duct to draw from beside the rad. like an M2 (easier than making an IC duct.) Or the PFS will work with a CWR or M2 intake... just plug the 2.75" outlet for the PFS intake.
Just my 2 cents, the Greddy is a nice IC, but as a kit, it isn't complete, and that makes the better price less attractive.
#80
You might consider asking Jason at The Store what his best price is. Sometimes you'll catch him at the right time and the price on the website may not be the final answer..... Also keep in mind he price matches....
Personally, I think $1010 is a little high for a used one, but I guess it's all in what it's worth to ya.
Personally, I think $1010 is a little high for a used one, but I guess it's all in what it's worth to ya.
#81
Actually, the Greddy unit does come with ducting fins/plates. Some fab work is necessary, but it works proficiently if done correctly.
$1010 sounds like a bargain. Then again, the SR Motorsports deal comes with a Cosmo (NippoDenso Comp) pump and is BRAND NEW for $1350. Oh yeah, you get a t-shirt too.
$1010 sounds like a bargain. Then again, the SR Motorsports deal comes with a Cosmo (NippoDenso Comp) pump and is BRAND NEW for $1350. Oh yeah, you get a t-shirt too.
#82
OK, I guess I'll chime in again.
If your running under 13psi there is NO need to touch your fuel system!!!!
Like I said before, a decent intake with cone filters (cone filters flow WAYYY better than flat square filters), and good smic with a duct and a fan on the back, with full exhaust and a Power FC is perfect!!!!!
You can control the boost with the PFC and if you do have a hard time controlling it throw on a set of $15 manual boost controlers
That set up will be good the 340rwhp at around 12-13psi of boost on the bone stock fuel system.
OH YEA, at 10psi your ok but if you do go up to 12-13 you'll need a clutch.
STEPHEN
If your running under 13psi there is NO need to touch your fuel system!!!!
Like I said before, a decent intake with cone filters (cone filters flow WAYYY better than flat square filters), and good smic with a duct and a fan on the back, with full exhaust and a Power FC is perfect!!!!!
You can control the boost with the PFC and if you do have a hard time controlling it throw on a set of $15 manual boost controlers
That set up will be good the 340rwhp at around 12-13psi of boost on the bone stock fuel system.
OH YEA, at 10psi your ok but if you do go up to 12-13 you'll need a clutch.
STEPHEN
#83
Originally posted by SleepR1
Ahh, so the stock flex hose still gets used with this kit, I see??!! I'm looking for a really nice condition used one...
Ahh, so the stock flex hose still gets used with this kit, I see??!! I'm looking for a really nice condition used one...
The SR smic Won't fit with the KOYO (or any 2" thk) Rad - The bottom tank needs to be modified or else the IC gets pushed up & back too far (by the thick rad). This causes the top to hit the hood and the bottom elbow to not clear the air pump pulley.
Talk to Jim at MARIAH about the mods required you plan on using the SR smic w/ a KOYO (or SR Comp) Rad.
Last edited by maxpesce; 12-05-02 at 05:11 PM.
#84
I got a reply from Jason Baughman from the Rx7 Store, and he no longer sells the Greddy SMICs. Rotary Performance (Garland TX), aka, Rx7.Com sells the Greddy SMIC for more than what Jason was listing the SMIC on the Rx7Store.Net. I've been able to find one used Greddy SMIC with a Pettit inlet duct.
The other bummer is that Fritz Flynn's stock air box has broken eyelets on the bottom half of his air box just like mine has, so that's a no go there; I'm no better off with his stock box and RB intake duct.
The whole attraction with the Greddy SMIC was being able to use it with my stock air box. Since my box is broken anyway, and I don't want to buy another used air box and refab the RB duct (it's beyond it's usefulness now), I'm back to square one with finding the right intake and IC setup...
Jeez...driving me nuts this project is!!!
The other bummer is that Fritz Flynn's stock air box has broken eyelets on the bottom half of his air box just like mine has, so that's a no go there; I'm no better off with his stock box and RB intake duct.
The whole attraction with the Greddy SMIC was being able to use it with my stock air box. Since my box is broken anyway, and I don't want to buy another used air box and refab the RB duct (it's beyond it's usefulness now), I'm back to square one with finding the right intake and IC setup...
Jeez...driving me nuts this project is!!!
Last edited by SleepR1; 12-05-02 at 05:43 PM.
#85
SPAutos,
So now what...I'm only plan to use 10 psi off of the Japan spec twins and ported KD Rotary motor, so what's the recommendation for air box and IC setup, that's a SMIC, that works with an Anfini Y-pipe?
I'm afraid we're back the high-dollar Rotary Extreme HMIC, Greddy Elbow, cold air box, and mini battery kit??!!
So now what...I'm only plan to use 10 psi off of the Japan spec twins and ported KD Rotary motor, so what's the recommendation for air box and IC setup, that's a SMIC, that works with an Anfini Y-pipe?
I'm afraid we're back the high-dollar Rotary Extreme HMIC, Greddy Elbow, cold air box, and mini battery kit??!!
Last edited by SleepR1; 12-05-02 at 05:56 PM.
#86
Just another 2-cents worth.
Wouldn't you be better served by modifying the bottom of your stock airbox (if you have one) to draw from beside the rad luike an M2 does? I did this to my PFS too. PM me, and i'll email you the template for the sheild tommorow from work (or do a search for my thread on it). The chief complaint with the PFS setup is the airbox scavenging from the IC, and i can't image why you'd go out of you way to set it up like that.
If you DO get a pettit duct for your Greddy IC and don't have to fab a duct (its tougher than it looks), why chew it up to make it work w/ the RB inlet duct, and compromise both pieces, just cut a rectangular hole in the bottom of the box the size of the space between the rad. and frame, and make a triangular shaped sheild.
I might also be convinced to sell you my already modded PFS intake/IC combo for a reasonable price... ;-)
Wouldn't you be better served by modifying the bottom of your stock airbox (if you have one) to draw from beside the rad luike an M2 does? I did this to my PFS too. PM me, and i'll email you the template for the sheild tommorow from work (or do a search for my thread on it). The chief complaint with the PFS setup is the airbox scavenging from the IC, and i can't image why you'd go out of you way to set it up like that.
If you DO get a pettit duct for your Greddy IC and don't have to fab a duct (its tougher than it looks), why chew it up to make it work w/ the RB inlet duct, and compromise both pieces, just cut a rectangular hole in the bottom of the box the size of the space between the rad. and frame, and make a triangular shaped sheild.
I might also be convinced to sell you my already modded PFS intake/IC combo for a reasonable price... ;-)
#87
manny try calling vince brown at performance garage in nashville. when i was there he showed me a great smic with duct he was selling. i'm not sure the price and avail. but it was a sweat unit and well worth checking on.
#88
I guess I'm back to Chuck Huang's setup...it's a money issue really...don't want to give up new Hoosiers and CE28Ns to get Chuck's setup...cuz you know tires and brakes are EVERYTHING in FAST road course circuit driving!!!
#89
What intake can his IC/duct be used with? Nashville IN , TN, which?
Originally posted by eurautodave
manny try calling vince brown at performance garage in nashville. when i was there he showed me a great smic with duct he was selling. i'm not sure the price and avail. but it was a sweat unit and well worth checking on.
manny try calling vince brown at performance garage in nashville. when i was there he showed me a great smic with duct he was selling. i'm not sure the price and avail. but it was a sweat unit and well worth checking on.
Last edited by SleepR1; 12-05-02 at 06:32 PM.
#90
I've seen it (a local guy has one), and it is very similar to an M2 med. The one i've seen has the inlet pipes welded in at an angle so that the tock intake elbo and efini y-pipe can be used...., so thats a plus. It'll work with any intake that an M2 does. I think the local guy uses a CWR.
#91
Originally posted by ptrhahn
I've seen it (a local guy has one), and it is very similar to an M2 med. The one i've seen has the inlet pipes welded in at an angle so that the tock intake elbo and efini y-pipe can be used...., so thats a plus. It'll work with any intake that an M2 does. I think the local guy uses a CWR.
I've seen it (a local guy has one), and it is very similar to an M2 med. The one i've seen has the inlet pipes welded in at an angle so that the tock intake elbo and efini y-pipe can be used...., so thats a plus. It'll work with any intake that an M2 does. I think the local guy uses a CWR.
#92
ptrhahn, that looks good. Meets my needs (work with stock elbow and Anfini Y/Cross-over pipe). The IC should be able to work with any M2-style airbox? Wonder if the inlet duct comes with the IC kit? Also wondering about fitment issues with a Koyo radiator...Price? Is this the IC kit you're referring to, euroautodave??
Fill me in who to contact, and how much (price it's always an issue )
Fill me in who to contact, and how much (price it's always an issue )
#93
Greddy 3-row FMIC if Jason can find an application for twin turbos. Greddy 2-row FMIC if not...
I'm starting to think the HMIC/SMIC setup isn't ideal for cooling the compressed air from the turbos.
I live in the midwest where hot days aren't that numerous.
I'll be running a big *** Koyo radiator, which will increase cooling capacity by 20% to 30%.
I run 80% distilled water, 20% anti-freeze, and Redline Water Wetter. Mobil One Comp 15W50 grade oil will be used year round. I have twin oil coolers (stock R1 equipment).
My car is primarily a daily driver (that happens to see LOTs of tracktime), will deal with heat soak more than it will with sustained high rpm use.
KD Rotary is porting the oil and coolant passages inside the motor for better cooling...
I'll have an Apexi Power FC. If I can borrow an FC datalogit, I'll have the fans set to switch on at lower motor temps. I'll install larger fans with manually switchable fans
I'll have black-rubber coated stainless steel mesh screens installed to protect the FMIC and dual oil coolers.
Honestly, I don't think I'll have a problem.
Full report once we have the setup installed...
I may move forward with the setup on my current motor and turbos, and NOT wait until the KD ported motor and Japan spec twins are installed, just to see how much "juice" the FMIC and Apexi intake adds to my tired old motor and turbos (102,500 miles) with stock ECU, dp, hi-flow cat, RB dual tip catback.
I just had the motor leak-down tested, and the o-ring seals are holding. No coolant leaked out of the spark plug holes! Compression is low in the high 5s. Vacuum is reading 13 inches Mercury at idle. Who knows how many more miles the original motor will cover?
The original twins are bad, for sure. The primaries aren't coming online like they should, but I do make 9 psi eventually as the motor revs rise to redline?
I'm starting to think the HMIC/SMIC setup isn't ideal for cooling the compressed air from the turbos.
I live in the midwest where hot days aren't that numerous.
I'll be running a big *** Koyo radiator, which will increase cooling capacity by 20% to 30%.
I run 80% distilled water, 20% anti-freeze, and Redline Water Wetter. Mobil One Comp 15W50 grade oil will be used year round. I have twin oil coolers (stock R1 equipment).
My car is primarily a daily driver (that happens to see LOTs of tracktime), will deal with heat soak more than it will with sustained high rpm use.
KD Rotary is porting the oil and coolant passages inside the motor for better cooling...
I'll have an Apexi Power FC. If I can borrow an FC datalogit, I'll have the fans set to switch on at lower motor temps. I'll install larger fans with manually switchable fans
I'll have black-rubber coated stainless steel mesh screens installed to protect the FMIC and dual oil coolers.
Honestly, I don't think I'll have a problem.
Full report once we have the setup installed...
I may move forward with the setup on my current motor and turbos, and NOT wait until the KD ported motor and Japan spec twins are installed, just to see how much "juice" the FMIC and Apexi intake adds to my tired old motor and turbos (102,500 miles) with stock ECU, dp, hi-flow cat, RB dual tip catback.
I just had the motor leak-down tested, and the o-ring seals are holding. No coolant leaked out of the spark plug holes! Compression is low in the high 5s. Vacuum is reading 13 inches Mercury at idle. Who knows how many more miles the original motor will cover?
The original twins are bad, for sure. The primaries aren't coming online like they should, but I do make 9 psi eventually as the motor revs rise to redline?
Last edited by SleepR1; 12-13-02 at 10:09 PM.
#94
Brand new Malloy Mazda Reman 13B REW was ordered from Ray Crowe (Malloy Mazda Parts Manager) 20 December 2002. Price was $1950 plus shipping.
Apex seals very loose in my current 102,500-mile motor; floods frequently, and is hard to start. Still runs though...
By now the NEW motor should be at KD Rotary being torn down for a port job, and reliability mods performed by Dave Barninger?
Greddy 2-row FMIC, Apex dual intake kit, Apex Power FC, Nippondenso Competition Fuel Pump, Anfini Y-pipe, Mazda wiring harness still need to be ordered from Jason Baughman (Rx7 Store.Net) and Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development.
Secondary injectors will be bored out to 1300-cc by Linder's Gasoline Alley, Indianapolis IN.
That's all for now...
Apex seals very loose in my current 102,500-mile motor; floods frequently, and is hard to start. Still runs though...
By now the NEW motor should be at KD Rotary being torn down for a port job, and reliability mods performed by Dave Barninger?
Greddy 2-row FMIC, Apex dual intake kit, Apex Power FC, Nippondenso Competition Fuel Pump, Anfini Y-pipe, Mazda wiring harness still need to be ordered from Jason Baughman (Rx7 Store.Net) and Mazdaspeed Motorsports Development.
Secondary injectors will be bored out to 1300-cc by Linder's Gasoline Alley, Indianapolis IN.
That's all for now...
#95
Latest update on the KDR Performance, Inc. motor (Kim and Dave Barninger, owners)
Malloy Mazda 13B REW Reman condition upon teardown:
-Two new rotors and bearings
-New side housings
-Used center housing, but in outstanding condition
-New oil metering jets
-New water pump and housing
-New oil pump
Accoding to Dave, Malloy has been sending this kind of quality remans to KDR Perf. Inc. for build-up jobs for the last few months.
Reliability mods:
-Enlarged oil and coolant passages
-Eccentric shaft mod
-Silicone o-ring gaskets
-Dowel pins
Mods offer better motor cooling efficiency and enhances durability.
Performance mods:
-15% enlarged primary intake ports
-25 % enlarged secondary intake ports
-15% enlarged exhaust ports
Mods result in a "snappier" low end, with nice increase in the mid range (5800 rpm). Power falls off with the efficiency of the twin turbos at redline. Offers between 5 to 7 hp gain over stock ports.
FWIW, Dave thinks it's ok to run synthetic (Mobil 1 15W/50) right away, so that's my plan
Apex Power FC and Commander from KDR Performance. Dave will "pre-tune" the Power FC based on the port job and my mods with FC Datalogit software. Dave tunes very conservatively. Apparently no further tuning is required (short of idle adjustments)?
My mods list:
-Apexi Power FC, Commander, Holder
-Koyo race radiator (75% distilled water, 25% antifreeze, Redline Water Wetter)
-Japan Spec Type RS/RZ Sequential Twins
-Bonez DP/Bonez High-Flow Cat/RB Dual Catback, with additional bung in DP for wide-band lambda tuning
-Greddy Airinx Dual Intake with K&N Filter replacements for Greddy foam and screen
-Greddy 2-row FMIC with Greddy Elbow (with stainless steel mesh screens for main air and oil cooler bumper openings)
-Nippondenso 1300-cc secondary injectors
-Nippondenso Competition Fuel Pump
-Engine Torque Brace
I plan to limit boost to 0.75 Barr (11 psi) for track, and 0.9 Barr (13.2 psi) for street and autocross.
Malloy Mazda 13B REW Reman condition upon teardown:
-Two new rotors and bearings
-New side housings
-Used center housing, but in outstanding condition
-New oil metering jets
-New water pump and housing
-New oil pump
Accoding to Dave, Malloy has been sending this kind of quality remans to KDR Perf. Inc. for build-up jobs for the last few months.
Reliability mods:
-Enlarged oil and coolant passages
-Eccentric shaft mod
-Silicone o-ring gaskets
-Dowel pins
Mods offer better motor cooling efficiency and enhances durability.
Performance mods:
-15% enlarged primary intake ports
-25 % enlarged secondary intake ports
-15% enlarged exhaust ports
Mods result in a "snappier" low end, with nice increase in the mid range (5800 rpm). Power falls off with the efficiency of the twin turbos at redline. Offers between 5 to 7 hp gain over stock ports.
FWIW, Dave thinks it's ok to run synthetic (Mobil 1 15W/50) right away, so that's my plan
Apex Power FC and Commander from KDR Performance. Dave will "pre-tune" the Power FC based on the port job and my mods with FC Datalogit software. Dave tunes very conservatively. Apparently no further tuning is required (short of idle adjustments)?
My mods list:
-Apexi Power FC, Commander, Holder
-Koyo race radiator (75% distilled water, 25% antifreeze, Redline Water Wetter)
-Japan Spec Type RS/RZ Sequential Twins
-Bonez DP/Bonez High-Flow Cat/RB Dual Catback, with additional bung in DP for wide-band lambda tuning
-Greddy Airinx Dual Intake with K&N Filter replacements for Greddy foam and screen
-Greddy 2-row FMIC with Greddy Elbow (with stainless steel mesh screens for main air and oil cooler bumper openings)
-Nippondenso 1300-cc secondary injectors
-Nippondenso Competition Fuel Pump
-Engine Torque Brace
I plan to limit boost to 0.75 Barr (11 psi) for track, and 0.9 Barr (13.2 psi) for street and autocross.
Last edited by SleepR1; 01-03-03 at 01:49 PM.
#97
I know of a few others that have the same setup as I do. One attends track days regularly, and has proper ducting and never has any overheating issues at all. Another has sold his car now, but he used to go out there and give it hell and also had no problems. Both are/were running a bar of boost on the stock twins, with a Apex FMIC and upgraded radiator (Koyo and Fluidyne).
But just to be perfectly clear, we don't truly "road race," just autocrosses and driving as hard as we can at club track days.
But just to be perfectly clear, we don't truly "road race," just autocrosses and driving as hard as we can at club track days.
#98
Originally posted by TailHappy
I know of a few others that have the same setup as I do. One attends track days regularly, and has proper ducting and never has any overheating issues at all. Another has sold his car now, but he used to go out there and give it hell and also had no problems. Both are/were running a bar of boost on the stock twins, with a Apex FMIC and upgraded radiator (Koyo and Fluidyne).
I know of a few others that have the same setup as I do. One attends track days regularly, and has proper ducting and never has any overheating issues at all. Another has sold his car now, but he used to go out there and give it hell and also had no problems. Both are/were running a bar of boost on the stock twins, with a Apex FMIC and upgraded radiator (Koyo and Fluidyne).
But just to be perfectly clear, we don't truly "road race," just autocrosses and driving as hard as we can at club track days.