Hey ladies and gentleman, I've searched and didn't find a similiar post so lets give this a try. I want to compile a list of aftermarket parts, porting services and upgrades with their corresponding horsepower gains for all of us who haven't made it or don't have a lot of time or money to go to a professional dynojet. If everyone could come together and submit information about the following subjects I'll get this list started. This is for the complete newbies (myself included), the daily drivers, and the rotary veterans.

Power:
Intake

Catback Exhaust -
HKS Hi-Power 15-17HP MSRP $395

Downpipe
Midpipe
Turbo Upgrades
Intercooler
Radiator
Ignition
Porting
Pulleys
ECU
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors

Suspension:
Springs
Shocks
Struts
Coilovers
Control Arms
Sway Bars
Toe Links
Trailing Bars

Brakes:
Pads
Rotors
Brake Lines
Calibers

Drivetrain:
Flywheels
Clutchlines
Counterweights
Clutch Kits
Ring and Pinion
Driveshaft
LSD

If I missed anything please tell me. Lets try to have different types of each if possible to provide a larger list for other Rotary owners to have different options to think about. Thanks.

 

Why do you have suspension components listed?

Also, real life is not a video game - there is no hard and fast "this part will make x horsepower". Every engine is different, and every part feeds off each other. You'll get more horsepower from an intake if you already have full exhaust and a good tune done. Also, the general health of your motor and the rest of the systems on the car will also dictate how much power a part makes.

Saying a part adds so much horsepower is a game for the manufacturers to play. And for video games.

Dale

 

Sorry Dale,

Since I haven't established myself as a hard core rotary guru, I know this is not a game. I decided to add the other parts just for reference for the less financially stable average joe. Of course the health of your engine comes in to play when you're squeezing every last bit of horsepower and ft.lb. of torque. I don't appreciate being treated like a kid especially when I'm just trying to help and put information out. Really its not like we're driving neons or civics.

Thanks,

Bin

 

He's not treating you like a kid, but anyone who's been around cars long enough knows that you can't just add a part and get a set HP/tq. gain.

I'm also curious why you have brake components listed.

Have you seen this forum....
https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-121/

 

I agree with Dale. No hard rules apply to each part. A better request would be to ask people what their setup is, and what HP they are putting down. Of course, if you do that, you will get a lot of BS. I'll start the BS.

Mods in my sig. About 300 rwhp with oem main cat and smog pump still operational.

 

I'm all about constructive criticism, at first it was just going to be a quick reference guide for approximate numbers and prices for parts so people don't have to do so much searching, but then I thought about the other components of the car and thought might as well add those to, I was in the process of editing my first post when Dale chipped in and now I haven't figured out how to edit my orginial post. So here we are. And thanks for the link.

Bin

 

I thought it was a good idea, epic fail. And my Super Advan Racing Ver. 2 wheels totally add like 54 HP.

 

You can only edit your post for 30 minutes. I wish there was no timeout on editing the first post in a thread.

 

Good to know, I should've made the first post the second.

 

Start reading the FAQ thread.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Maybe start with post #6 for some insight into HP gains:
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...38&postcount=6

 

you forgot something on that list:

PERFORMANCE CHIP MODULE / Adds 100-300 horse power & 20-100 mpg / MSRP $19.99
TURBONATOR INTAKE SUPERCHARGER / Adds 7% horse power & 33% mpg / MSRP $35.00

yeah, this thread makes no sense.

you can't just throw out arbitrary numbers claiming that if you install part X then you will get ___ horsepower gains, because it just doesnt work like that in real life.

take the HKS twin power for example. if you install it on a stock FD you might get single digit power gains, but installing it on a heavily modified FD with yield a much greater gain.

 

Uhh i drive a civic eg, Whats wrong with them ?

 

what Dale said is spot on.

to the OP,
You know there was this site zeroglab... something the name scapes me.. but it was an awsome dyno comparison chart that plotted "real dyno results" from real people. Basically you'd scroll through and check peoples setups and compare them against each other all in one plot.

 

That was wargasms site. Not sure what happened to it. If hosting was a issue I would host it to put it back up.

~S~

 

not only are horsepower claims usually not accurate for the previously stated reasons but also the prices of parts vary greatly.

You should study the forum members who actually have and use alot of these parts. The ones who have the best cars are really shrewd in getting used parts, free labor from their buddies and other various good ol' boy deals.

Otherwise, you could compile a list of vendor websites that members shop from for price reference, but most forum members already have these sites saved in their cpu's.

 

Here's all you need to know: you can expect to add about 15-20 rwhp for each pound of boost pressure above a baseline of 320 rwhp @ 12 psi, with all the supporting bolt-ons (including full exhaust, ECU, fuel, and IC upgrades)

If you go above 20 psi, you're talking exponentially more $$$ in supporting mods.

 

Interesting theory....


~S~

 

I agree with Zero R, where are you getting this info from? Need for speed shift? Where's the infraction button for posting misinformation?

 

Hardly "misinformation" it's quite accurate information based on Pettit Racing's experience, and common knowledge

 

Forget horsepower do Reliability mods FIRST!
there is so much more than just bolt ons..

 

here's just my experience, last august I put down 257 hp and 227 tq on a mustang dyno with the following mods:
3" turbo back exhaust, unknown brand (thanks to the previous owner)
Greddy FMIC
Koyo rad
HKS filters, stock intake piping
efini y-pipe
PFC, 13ish lbs
SHITTY timing, I should check to see if I still have that map...
stock-ish clutch and flywheel (will be removing in the next month to verify and replace)
I will be re-dynoing here shortly with greatly improved timing, more fuel and hopefully 14lbs of boost and the Greddy TB elbow, I'll post results. My water temps are also a consistant 85C now, previously 92-93 wasn't uncommon, so she seems to like the changes.

 

in regards to no more rice's comment about 20 lbs, if you have the ability to run 20lbs, you're not on the stock turbo.
Friends mod list:
single turbo (unsure of size) @ 17psi
street port
SMIC
rad
street port with port matched LIM
FC coils
3" TBE w/ resonator in place of cat
Greddy elbow
intake filter shroud
hey put down 403 whp, 310 torque on a dynojet dyno

so obviously that 15-20hp/lb of boost is incorrect. HOWEVER if you search howard coleman's post you will find this little gem:
Rotaries require 1.92 CFM (cubic feet per minute) to make one rear wheel hp.
and:
to derive rotary hp take the pounds per minute, multiply by 14.471 to get CFM and divide by 1.92 to get approx max rear wheel rotary hp. or take pounds per minute, multiply by 10 and divide by 1.3 to get to the same general vicinity.
obviously this requires you be able to read a compressor map

 

well no ****, sherlock

ok, so how does this violate my rule of thumb? in fact, it verifies it: 5 psi above 12 psi; 5*15= 75 + 320 = 395...pretty close!

sure....or you failed jr. high math

 

hmm... looks like it was so shitty I didn't save it, oh well.

 

reading>me, I misread your post, I didn't see the "past 320 and 12psi" part. I guess I'll be verifying your theory towards the end of april for myself. We'll see what I put down at 14 psi.
thanks for fixing my typo too.