Exhaust Leak Help
09-05-05, 09:44 PM
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Exhaust Leak Help
i have an exhaust leak from the turbo manifold to the downpipe. the other day i got it up on the lift and as soon as i pulled on one of the downpipe studs the sound changed. for some reason this stud gave me hell to take out when i first put in the downpipe and it was the same one that was loose. has anyone experienced this before. i got to get a new gasket too but mazda wants 100 bux does anyone know where i can get one cheaper?
09-05-05, 09:54 PM
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That gasket is WAAYYYY too much, I just changed my downpipe and the gasket was $65 Canadain from the dealer. From what I know you should call Ray Crowe Malloy Mazda(his # is in the stickies or check at mazdapartscheap.com
09-06-05, 05:31 AM
#3
Unfortunately that gasket is still near $100 from Ray. Sometimes members will sell one for what they paid for it ($50, 75), but that's about the stink of it.
Remove the downpipe, and make sure its' FLAT. Stainless often warps some when it's welded, and most downpipe flanges aren't machined after welding. Take a nice flat file and work it across the face of the dp flange until the high spots are gone. Or better yet find a machine shop with a good grinder and have them clean 0.06" off the face.
The threads in the manifold often get gunked up with metal that rubs off from a stubborn stud that was stuck in there before. Buy an M10x1.25 plug tap and carefully work it into the manifold, (1/8th turn forward, 1/8th turn forward, 1/8th turn back, etc). That should clean out the threads so that it will tighten properly. Snug all four bolts without the gasket in place and use a thin feeler gauge to look for gaps between the manifold and downpipe. Now install with the gasket, be sure it's located in the right place, and snug up the bolts to the spec'd torque (35ft-lb or something close to that)
Dave
Remove the downpipe, and make sure its' FLAT. Stainless often warps some when it's welded, and most downpipe flanges aren't machined after welding. Take a nice flat file and work it across the face of the dp flange until the high spots are gone. Or better yet find a machine shop with a good grinder and have them clean 0.06" off the face.
The threads in the manifold often get gunked up with metal that rubs off from a stubborn stud that was stuck in there before. Buy an M10x1.25 plug tap and carefully work it into the manifold, (1/8th turn forward, 1/8th turn forward, 1/8th turn back, etc). That should clean out the threads so that it will tighten properly. Snug all four bolts without the gasket in place and use a thin feeler gauge to look for gaps between the manifold and downpipe. Now install with the gasket, be sure it's located in the right place, and snug up the bolts to the spec'd torque (35ft-lb or something close to that)
Dave
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