Anyone used this stuff. I was reading about it and it said the boiling point was over 350Degrees at zero pressure. And it was like 35% more efficent and was non water based. What do you guys think of this? Let me know cause I think I might try it out.. just wanted to make sure it wouldnt hurt my motor at all.

 

The search function still works:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=197879

 

Good stuff. Been in Cantgostraight 's car for a while with no ill effects to speak of.

 

Are you talking about a coolant additive? Check out water wetter, it seems to yield impressive results.

 

No, its a complete coolant change out. No more antifreeze crap.

 

Works well. Car does run slightly hotter.

 

That doesn't make sense to me... if the car runs hotter w/ this stuff then how does it work well? Not flaming, just questioning.

 

Coolant temps cool go up quick upon start-up...but once it gets to operating temps - it stays there....no complaints, sat in Austin, TX 100+ degrees for almost an hour and the temp did not deviate....

Converted to the zero pressure setup when I put it, filled/flushed the car twice with 100% Sierra before putting in the Evans (probably overkill).

So far I've been very happy with it considering it's a black car in HOT TX weather!

GEB!

 

I'm no engineer, but I'm told that it won't boilover. You can even run with an open radiator. (I've never tried it)
It eliminates hot spots in the engine. The negitive is that it runs 10 degrees hotter than conventional coolant.

 

http://www.pineappleracing.com/Prod-EvansNPG.html

I like the stuff so far ... had it about two months. It's comforting that my oil will break down before the coolant boils over ...

 

Had it for 8+ months.... I've really liked it in the cold winter months when she is a bitch to drive before full warm-up....no more bucking/hiccuping/jerking (sounds kinda naughty huh!? ).

Very happy with it thus far in the heat ....90k+ on original engine...going for 100K!

GEB.

 

yeah it will boilover

i had my car overheat, the boiling point on that stuff is around 350 degrees, when is does boil it turns into a goo and then solidifies (happened to me) evans says that happens around 375, the stuff was awesome though, once i get my motor repaired im going to be running evans npg+ again

 

you need counseling if you let your car overheat that badly

 

If the car runs a little hotter it's not that big of a deal. If you are in traffic it may run a little hotter. on the HW around cruising speeds I usually see temps around 85-87 degrees celcius. Before I had the PFC tuned they would be a little higher because the fans come on earlier now. But it's not that big of a deal if the car runs a little hotter, as long as you keep an eye on the temp gauge. Plus running the coolant system at 0 psi is IMO a lot less stress on the system, wich may or may not make your engine last longer. I don't think it has been proven though.

 

Been running Evans for just over a year now and love it. Car does run about 8-10 degrees C hotter, but I don't have to worry about localized boiling in the engine and the 0 psi should provide much less stress. I would think that running at 0 psi would also help prevent coolant leaks and the like as well.

My car still runs hotter than I would like, but I think Evans provides a better safety margin with the higher boiling point.

I can't believe ANYONE got thier coollant to 350 degrees!

 

I don't get it!

If everyone is running hotter why would you use this stuff? Totally contradictory. Heat kills, and yes, 10 degrees is significant.

Am I nucking futs or what???

 

I have been running Evans for a year now and can say with confidfense that IT DOES NOT RUN 10 DEGREES HOTTER. Down here in the Phoenix summers I had tried just about everything from 25% coolant / 75% water mixtures, a bottle or 2 of water wetter and upgrading to a Koyo radiator. Each thing I tried changed operating temperatures a little but nothing was as big of a difference as the Evans. It gets up to operating temps faster but once at 85 is alot more stable than anything else I have tried. Before the temps would rocket past 100C when the A/C was on, now it slowly climbs to about 95 on the highway or to about 100 if I am stopped in traffic. If anything I run cooler with Evans, not hotter. I recommend Evans 100%, it is well worth the pain in the *** conversion and $25 a gallon price tag.

 

I agree it is significant....but still well within range without the issues of a high pressure system and localized boiling within the engine.

I have no idea if it is better...but the concept seemed good to me. I did the conversion when I replaced the rad with a Koyo...so don't really know how much cooler it would run with regular coolant/water mix. Have contemplated converting back just so I can add water into the system...biggest drawback is always having the need to keep Evans around in case of need.

Before conversion (with stock rad) my car would heat up to almost 220F in stop and go 100+ outside temp. Now it gets to maybe 98C..and usually runs in the 85C range when I am at least constantly moving.

I may convert back the next day I decide to get into it, just to see the difference.

 

I am like Ronk,

I'm still not sure of the benefits....I had some cooling issues and now with a modified thermostat....I see low 80's (85ish) on highways driving not 90's...

Also, the benefit of reduced localized boiling....that's what the other after market additives such as water wetter does also. So the only benefit I can see with Evans is slightly higher operating temps and 0psi system...

 

And then there's the downsides .... A) it's expensive; B) it's non-aqueous, which means you CANNOT add water to it; C) did I mention it's expensive? I'd rather spend the $6/gallon of Prestone and $1/gallon of distilled water than whatever gawdawful price the Evans coolant costs. Not to mention, what happens when you find a small coolant leak on the road or, like me, break something at the track? Better keep your AAA card on you.

 

Well hey, that's a good report since Scottsdale would be the ultimate torture chamber. Someone once told me the pavement temperature is regularly 140F in the afternoon, and I think that's conservative!

Thank God I live in the much cooler climate of Tucson, where it's always 5F lower -Brrrrrr.

I LIKE the idea of the engine warming up faster - less wear and tear.

 

Thing is:

The you don't want your car to reach a certain temperature NOT because it would boil over, but because the heat damages the coolant o-rings and warps the rotor housings.

Overheating and/or high temps all by themselves aren't the issue, its the damage to the subjected parts. If you're 10 degrees closer to 250 (or whatever the o-ring threshhold is) it isn't going to matter wether your coolant is boiling when you hit it.

SO, if the deal is that it runs 10 degrees hotter while cruising, then is much less suseptable to creeping up to the danger zone, GREAT... but if it is just 10 degrees hotter universally, no thanks.

 

10 degrees or more isn't going to damage an o-ring designed for parts near a combustion chamber of a rotary as long as sufficient heat energy is transferred away from the housing and o-ring.

In order to transfer sufficient energy away, the coolant medium has to be in liquid form (i.e. gas molecules are closer together) than in gaseous form (i.e., gas molecules are further away). Coolant remains in liquid form as long as its boiling point is not reached. To have a higher boiling point, increase the pressure on the coolant. Ergo, we have a 16-19 psi pressure cap for 50/50 mix. But at 16-19 psi, the boiling point is around 260 degrees. Thus, our cooling system is right on the edge of heat transfer that has nowhere to go except into the housing, into the o-ring once the coolant starts boiling.

So in theory, with NPG+, there is a greater margin of error when you are running the car at the edge because heat can still be transferred away from the housing and o-ring.

But like everything relating to theory, reality may be a whole different story. I can tell you an example with Dexcool (in theory, coolant will last longer but reality is that it damages seals) or even one in Iraq (in theory, we can transform a bunch of arabs into blue blood americans).

 

Another theory: show a bunch of rotary freaks the upsides of v-8 conversions and they will convert en mass (ala Irondonuts or tieblocke). Reality isn't so.

 

That is partially true, but localized boiling and hot spots will lead to alot more warping than the entire thing heating up evenly to a high temperature. The high boiling point of Evans will keep the whole thing heated more evenly.
Additionally, running at 0 psi has the benefit of not stressing all the coolant lines as much as 16psi.
I still stand behind Evans, even after just spending the $50 to replace it after a leak due to faulty hose clamp.
If you dont want to keep an extra gallon of Evans around, keep some Sierra with you for emergencies. You can add it to the Evans in a pinch but should flush it out once your leak is fixed.

One last thing about the price, while Evans is $25 a gallon, it doesnt ever need to be flushed. In the long run you still probably pay more for the Evans, but it isnt as big of a difference as the initial cost would lead you to believe.


I agree, I think that 140 is very conservative. Ever run to your car in the driveway bare foot on a summer afernoon? OMG that hurts! I cant even walk around the pool deck bare foot.