Engine Removal....
#1
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Engine Removal....
I know there was a post about this before..and i can't find it..but anyway...
I'm goin to be pulling out my motor to get rebuilt and need some help in removing the motor..
this is what I think I must do..
Remove transmission...
- PPF
- Slave cylinder
- drive shaft
(do i need to completely remove the trans from under the car?)
Remove motor..
- pull harness from ecu
- remove I/C
- remove oil cooler lines
- remove coolant lines
anything else?? any suggestions or links for more info..
TIA
------------------
Jay
93 RX-7 R1 JaySpec7.com
01 BMW E46 Coming Soon
97 Integra GSR For Sale
I'm goin to be pulling out my motor to get rebuilt and need some help in removing the motor..
this is what I think I must do..
Remove transmission...
- PPF
- Slave cylinder
- drive shaft
(do i need to completely remove the trans from under the car?)
Remove motor..
- pull harness from ecu
- remove I/C
- remove oil cooler lines
- remove coolant lines
anything else?? any suggestions or links for more info..
TIA
------------------
Jay
93 RX-7 R1 JaySpec7.com
01 BMW E46 Coming Soon
97 Integra GSR For Sale
#2
Lives on the Forum
trans stays in car. as does the harness. you disconect evrything at the motor. starter also comes out. i have a factory mazda manual i could sell you for $25. pm me if interested.
#3
Junior Member
Jay, here's the ways me and my friends has been doing:
1) Disconnect battery and all associated hoses on the engine (brake booster, fuel lines, oil cooler lines - careful on the clips, don't loose it as they pop out easy, vacuum hoses, i/c, pipings, etc.), and driver side associated ignition harness.
2) Remove the 4 bolts holding the a/c compressor from the brackets. Before that, you want to get clearance to the a/c bolts by removing the P/S from the brackets too. There's one bolt among the bolts holding the p/s to the bracket behind the pully, so that's another thing to look out for.
3) Drain your oil, radiator, and engine block coolant - via I think 12 or 14mm nut on the rear or front rotor housing *forgot*.
4) Remove ur ECU, unclip the harness and pull it out through the firewall and let it stay in ur windsheild until you are ready to hoist the engine out.
5) Remove the starter & downpipe.
6) Disconnect ur clutch/pressure plate by pushing the "ring" out, but I have never know how to do that so the way I have been doing is loosing the pressure plate bolt to the flywheel one by one via the under panel tray on the tranny.
7) Once you had the clutch disengaged from the engine, remove all tranny bolts.
8) Remove the 2 engine mount bolts.
9) After the above are done, you are ready to remove the engine.
The main idea is there, maybe missing some little stuff if at all...but that's about it.
TTT, save this message for your reference in case I am not around to pull your motor when your motor busted.
------------------
Wayne
93 CYM R1
86 MR2 N/A www.geocities.com/tristarx
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 21, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 21, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 21, 2001).]
1) Disconnect battery and all associated hoses on the engine (brake booster, fuel lines, oil cooler lines - careful on the clips, don't loose it as they pop out easy, vacuum hoses, i/c, pipings, etc.), and driver side associated ignition harness.
2) Remove the 4 bolts holding the a/c compressor from the brackets. Before that, you want to get clearance to the a/c bolts by removing the P/S from the brackets too. There's one bolt among the bolts holding the p/s to the bracket behind the pully, so that's another thing to look out for.
3) Drain your oil, radiator, and engine block coolant - via I think 12 or 14mm nut on the rear or front rotor housing *forgot*.
4) Remove ur ECU, unclip the harness and pull it out through the firewall and let it stay in ur windsheild until you are ready to hoist the engine out.
5) Remove the starter & downpipe.
6) Disconnect ur clutch/pressure plate by pushing the "ring" out, but I have never know how to do that so the way I have been doing is loosing the pressure plate bolt to the flywheel one by one via the under panel tray on the tranny.
7) Once you had the clutch disengaged from the engine, remove all tranny bolts.
8) Remove the 2 engine mount bolts.
9) After the above are done, you are ready to remove the engine.
The main idea is there, maybe missing some little stuff if at all...but that's about it.
TTT, save this message for your reference in case I am not around to pull your motor when your motor busted.
------------------
Wayne
93 CYM R1
86 MR2 N/A www.geocities.com/tristarx
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 21, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 21, 2001).]
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 21, 2001).]
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#4
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Thanks guys..
------------------
Jay
93 RX-7 R1 JaySpec7.com
01 BMW E46 Coming Soon
97 Integra GSR For Sale
------------------
Jay
93 RX-7 R1 JaySpec7.com
01 BMW E46 Coming Soon
97 Integra GSR For Sale
#5
Hey jayspec the engine harness has to come out with the engine so u have to unplug it from the main ecu and wrap it so when u pull it out from the car u won't cut any wires, also the starter has to come out and the power steering pump. I have removed my engine twice on my car and alot people will it can be done fast but it's your car and money invested so take your time,btw when r u planning to removed the engine? also buy new clips for the oil cooler lines.good luck
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Mods r as Follow.Mind Train Downpipe,Hks Catback,Greddy Pullies,Racing Beat Springs,Mazda Competition I/C,Rx7 Fashion Intake & Polish Intake Pipes,Jet-Coated Efini Y-Pipes,Dei Heat Sheild Tape on Engine Harness,Dei Plugs Boots,99 Complete Front,R-1 Second Oil Cooler Added,Moonroof,Efini Steering Wheel,4-Row Raditaor,Auto Meter Boost & Water Temp Gauge,New R-1 Sude Seats.Compass & temperature reading rear view mirror.4 Power Sloted Rotors.
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Mods r as Follow.Mind Train Downpipe,Hks Catback,Greddy Pullies,Racing Beat Springs,Mazda Competition I/C,Rx7 Fashion Intake & Polish Intake Pipes,Jet-Coated Efini Y-Pipes,Dei Heat Sheild Tape on Engine Harness,Dei Plugs Boots,99 Complete Front,R-1 Second Oil Cooler Added,Moonroof,Efini Steering Wheel,4-Row Raditaor,Auto Meter Boost & Water Temp Gauge,New R-1 Sude Seats.Compass & temperature reading rear view mirror.4 Power Sloted Rotors.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
DUHR!!!TTT!!!
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~Attila~
94 SilverStone
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~Attila~
94 SilverStone
APEX'i Power FC & Commander / Nippondenso Large Fuel Pump
RB Intake w- K&N / Bonez DP / Custom Thermal Reaserch CB
M2 Race Radiator / Greddy Pulleys / SS AST / Fan Mod
Power Slots w- Hawks / SS Brake Lines
Tokico Adjustables w- H&R Springs / 245/45/16 RE 730's
Defi Boost Guage w- Controller
#9
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For disengaging the clutch take a flat head screwdriver and put it between the release collar and the wedge collar and give it a tap, it should pop apart.
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==========
White 94
Resting in my shop.
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White 94
Resting in my shop.
#11
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I've got a couple of stupid questions but hey what can you do. anyway where do the oil cooler lines connect to the engine, where is the drivers side ignition harness, where is the ecu, and finally why do you have to disengage the clutch? any help would be greatly appreciated.
#12
Junior Member
Originally posted by yodaddy:
I've got a couple of stupid questions but hey what can you do. anyway where do the oil cooler lines connect to the engine
I've got a couple of stupid questions but hey what can you do. anyway where do the oil cooler lines connect to the engine
Driver side lower radiator area just right next to the A/C compressor. If you have R1 or R2, you should see 2 hoses connected by a round metal ring clip.
where is the drivers side ignition harness
It's the harness that's connected to ur ignition coils. 3 plugs one..trace it and you will see what I am talking about.
where is the ecu
Behind passenger side plastic kick panels. Remove the passenger side door step, unscrew the kick panel and you will see.
and finally why do you have to disengage the clutch? any help would be greatly appreciated
------------------
Wayne
93 CYM R1
86 MR2 N/A www.geocities.com/tristarx
[This message has been edited by tristarx (edited May 23, 2001).]
#13
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It has been about 3.5 months since I pulled mine and last touched it, so I'll try to answer the best I can remamber.
When you get your IC out, directly below it and a little to the right you will see the oil cooler lines, where the rubber meets the metal connectors there will be some spring clips. You have to pop them out and you will also need to replace them with new ones.
For the ignition harness, all I did was unplug the connectors on the driver side. I did not take the harness away with the fuses.
The ECU is on the passenger side behind the black kick panel, on the right side of the floorboard. Take off the kick panel and disconnect the four connectors behind it. There are also some other connectors with the harness as well. Be sure to tape the connectors to the harness so you can fish them through the fire wall without cuttting them. HAVE FUN.
You have to disengage the clutch so you can pull the engine away from the bellhousing and out of the car. The wedge collar snaps onto the clutch release bearing so when you push in and out on your clutch pedal the pressure plate can move to and from the flywheel.
Hope this helps.
When you get your IC out, directly below it and a little to the right you will see the oil cooler lines, where the rubber meets the metal connectors there will be some spring clips. You have to pop them out and you will also need to replace them with new ones.
For the ignition harness, all I did was unplug the connectors on the driver side. I did not take the harness away with the fuses.
The ECU is on the passenger side behind the black kick panel, on the right side of the floorboard. Take off the kick panel and disconnect the four connectors behind it. There are also some other connectors with the harness as well. Be sure to tape the connectors to the harness so you can fish them through the fire wall without cuttting them. HAVE FUN.
You have to disengage the clutch so you can pull the engine away from the bellhousing and out of the car. The wedge collar snaps onto the clutch release bearing so when you push in and out on your clutch pedal the pressure plate can move to and from the flywheel.
Hope this helps.
#16
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so far i've had to use plyers 10mm,12mm sockets with extentions an screw drivers but your probly also going to need 14mm and maby a cresent wrench. probly not everything but i hope it helps.
#17
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#18
Ok,
I've disconnected about everything above except for the bolts on the power plant frame. Where do you guys attach your chains for lifting the engine out? I see that there are 2 rings at the back left of the engine and one at the front right of the engine. Are these what are used? They don't seem strong enough to me. Also what size chains did you use, I figure some that are stong enough for 1500 lbs, because I am pulling the engine with the transmission still attached.
Thanks for your help, I will be pulling the motor this weekend.
I've disconnected about everything above except for the bolts on the power plant frame. Where do you guys attach your chains for lifting the engine out? I see that there are 2 rings at the back left of the engine and one at the front right of the engine. Are these what are used? They don't seem strong enough to me. Also what size chains did you use, I figure some that are stong enough for 1500 lbs, because I am pulling the engine with the transmission still attached.
Thanks for your help, I will be pulling the motor this weekend.
#20
Well 2 reasons[list=1][*]Shifting from 3rd to 4th took some muscle... I never drove the car but when I was shifting in the car 1st to 2nd was fine but 3rd to 4th was difficult[*]I figured while I was pulling it I would do it all in one moment, I heard on the forum that pulling both was the easiest[/list=1]
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