ENGINE REINSTALL: (help!!)
#1
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Hi everyone,
We are currently in the process of putting an engine (hopefully a fixed one) into the mighty batmobile... problem is, it won't line up to the gearbox properly (the engine was pulled sans gearbox); it looks to us like the bottom of the gearbox is all lined up (with one bolt threaded right in) and the engine mounts are through but the top mating surface of the gearbox and rear of the engine just aren't meeting up.
summary of problem; for some reason the engine seems to be angling forward and down away from the firewall... are there some tricks i'm missing here? we used a clutch alignment tool and all! next step is to either use a jack to bring up the front of the engine, or drop the gearbox all together.
any masters wanna help answer this one?!
OH YEAH, I'VE BEEN WORKING ON THIS BUILD FOR ALMOST 2 YEARS!!
We are currently in the process of putting an engine (hopefully a fixed one) into the mighty batmobile... problem is, it won't line up to the gearbox properly (the engine was pulled sans gearbox); it looks to us like the bottom of the gearbox is all lined up (with one bolt threaded right in) and the engine mounts are through but the top mating surface of the gearbox and rear of the engine just aren't meeting up.
summary of problem; for some reason the engine seems to be angling forward and down away from the firewall... are there some tricks i'm missing here? we used a clutch alignment tool and all! next step is to either use a jack to bring up the front of the engine, or drop the gearbox all together.
any masters wanna help answer this one?!
OH YEAH, I'VE BEEN WORKING ON THIS BUILD FOR ALMOST 2 YEARS!!
#3
The easiest thing to do is to jack up the front of the engine. What you can do is use an extention and then a 10mm socket onto one of the oil pan bolts, and then have that on a jack. Then when you extend the jack, it will push on the socket/extention and push up on a safe part of the engine.
Do not use the center of the oil pan.
If you are not use stock mounts (using solid mounts), you can just not put the mounts in place until after you mate up the tranny.
Do not use the center of the oil pan.
If you are not use stock mounts (using solid mounts), you can just not put the mounts in place until after you mate up the tranny.
#4
I use the '10 step' method (works for alot of stuff actually).
1) Try it, if it doesn't work, leave it for a while...
2) Try it again, if it doesn't work, leave it for a bit longer...
3 ... 9) "
10) You're done!
Always works for me
1) Try it, if it doesn't work, leave it for a while...
2) Try it again, if it doesn't work, leave it for a bit longer...
3 ... 9) "
10) You're done!
Always works for me
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#5
Use a load leveler or adjust your chain on the hanger points, or the pivot point for lifting the chain.
I jack the trans up all the way to the tunnel. I then bring the engine close, noting any angle difference on 2 axis. Use the chain and hang points to adjust the angle until they match as closely as possible. Start the input shaft into the clutch, and use a long prybar against the front cover and steering rack (no excess force) to make angle adjustments and urge the engine backwards toward the trans. WIth this method as well as close inspection of the relationship between bellhousing and rear iron mating surfaces, I can usually mate an engine in 5-20 minutes by myself.
I jack the trans up all the way to the tunnel. I then bring the engine close, noting any angle difference on 2 axis. Use the chain and hang points to adjust the angle until they match as closely as possible. Start the input shaft into the clutch, and use a long prybar against the front cover and steering rack (no excess force) to make angle adjustments and urge the engine backwards toward the trans. WIth this method as well as close inspection of the relationship between bellhousing and rear iron mating surfaces, I can usually mate an engine in 5-20 minutes by myself.
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