Electronic boost controller woes
#27
I'll stick with my manual boost controller, I love it.
#28
40mm gate might be too small for that turbo.
that's moving pretty good, you should be able to pick up some time, what was your 60' (assuming you're still using the american measurements for drag racing). You hit damn near 130 mph, that should be good for low low low 11's, 10's if you get some more practice, that's moving.
what were your times in the 1/8th?
that's moving pretty good, you should be able to pick up some time, what was your 60' (assuming you're still using the american measurements for drag racing). You hit damn near 130 mph, that should be good for low low low 11's, 10's if you get some more practice, that's moving.
what were your times in the 1/8th?
#29
i installed a B spec ii just last week and after setting it up and adjusting the gain it worked perfectly so i'm not sure why the hate.
i used the last setup in the original post, capping both outputs to the stock solenoids but i would disregard the tee off the charge pipe, only one hose off there is necessary.
first i set it to read psi versus the 100kg stock setup, you do that by holding down the select button to turn the unit off then hold the select button down and tap the mode button 2 times.
next i set up the warning to whatever your target boost will be, say 10psi set it to 105
after that you have to set the amount of boost cut in the limiter, i generally set this to 15%. after it passes your warning boost setting it willl oscillate the boost down 15%, you will see the warning light up and the car will surge if you are overboosting.
after the initial setup go to your set gain, i usually set this slightly higher than your target boost level to get the turbos to spool up quicker, overboosting at lower RPMs by a little won't hurt anything and gets the turbos more responsive by holding the wastegate shut as long as possible. for this example i would use a setting of 110
now set the gain itself, if you're overshooting and continuing to hit the boost limiter after the initial turbo spool lower the gain setting, if your boost drops off or is too low raise the figure. on the stock twins i think i wound up with a setting of 14-16% here.
lastly but most important is the set function which is your duty cycle. this is the basic amount of air that your boost controller solenoid will consistently pinch off. think of this figures as a bending a straw while you blow through it, the higher the % here, the more the straw is kinked and flow is minimized which results in more boost. generally this figure is around 55-60% for stock boost levels on the stock twins.
if you wind up with similar figures to this and you still are having issues with consistency or raising boost then quite simply, you have a boost leak... make a pressure tester and find where your leaks are and repair them. ramping the set % up near or past 80% with no gains in boost literally means you have a massive boost leak or a stuck open wastegate.
i also don't believe anyone has asked what ports you used on the solenoid either, "NO" port to the charge pipe and "COM" port to the tee into the WG/turbo precontrol actuator, there should be no pill in either line with this setup.
.
i used the last setup in the original post, capping both outputs to the stock solenoids but i would disregard the tee off the charge pipe, only one hose off there is necessary.
first i set it to read psi versus the 100kg stock setup, you do that by holding down the select button to turn the unit off then hold the select button down and tap the mode button 2 times.
next i set up the warning to whatever your target boost will be, say 10psi set it to 105
after that you have to set the amount of boost cut in the limiter, i generally set this to 15%. after it passes your warning boost setting it willl oscillate the boost down 15%, you will see the warning light up and the car will surge if you are overboosting.
after the initial setup go to your set gain, i usually set this slightly higher than your target boost level to get the turbos to spool up quicker, overboosting at lower RPMs by a little won't hurt anything and gets the turbos more responsive by holding the wastegate shut as long as possible. for this example i would use a setting of 110
now set the gain itself, if you're overshooting and continuing to hit the boost limiter after the initial turbo spool lower the gain setting, if your boost drops off or is too low raise the figure. on the stock twins i think i wound up with a setting of 14-16% here.
lastly but most important is the set function which is your duty cycle. this is the basic amount of air that your boost controller solenoid will consistently pinch off. think of this figures as a bending a straw while you blow through it, the higher the % here, the more the straw is kinked and flow is minimized which results in more boost. generally this figure is around 55-60% for stock boost levels on the stock twins.
if you wind up with similar figures to this and you still are having issues with consistency or raising boost then quite simply, you have a boost leak... make a pressure tester and find where your leaks are and repair them. ramping the set % up near or past 80% with no gains in boost literally means you have a massive boost leak or a stuck open wastegate.
i also don't believe anyone has asked what ports you used on the solenoid either, "NO" port to the charge pipe and "COM" port to the tee into the WG/turbo precontrol actuator, there should be no pill in either line with this setup.
.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 12-11-10 at 10:21 PM.
#30
another method I like with this kind of controller is an incremental approach. First you get the gain to basically 0. Then you progressively raise the SET and the SET GAIN in alternating fashion until you reach your target boost. Then add in a little bit of gain after that to reduce boost dropoff.
This type of strategy doesn't wind up the turbo as hard down low as the process Karack described. In my experience the SET GAIN (or its equivalent on whatever control you are using) can be a couple psi lower than your intended boost level, and then your GAIN will give you that little bit of overshoot you might want for midrange torque.
There's more than one method to set this type (Greddy Spec II, HKS EVC-S, Turbosmart Eboost, etc). A lot of it depends on the boost curve you are looking for.
This type of strategy doesn't wind up the turbo as hard down low as the process Karack described. In my experience the SET GAIN (or its equivalent on whatever control you are using) can be a couple psi lower than your intended boost level, and then your GAIN will give you that little bit of overshoot you might want for midrange torque.
There's more than one method to set this type (Greddy Spec II, HKS EVC-S, Turbosmart Eboost, etc). A lot of it depends on the boost curve you are looking for.
#31
as i told you my final setting with 68% boost , 6 % gain and 0.55 bar set gain gave me a solid pass with 1.15 1st and 2ng gear , 1.3 on third and 1.35 in 4th
Yes there is a small drop in pressure but I believe that I have ,axed out my layout both turbo and wastegate
This unit was never intended for more than 400BHP and I have passed that
My next step is a turbo kit created by my tuner including
GARRETT GT3542 with 0.74 AR and 1.04 AR exhaust
46mm external + tubular manifold + downpipe
1600cc secondary's and new map in my POWER FC
This setup gave 420 @ 0.9 bar and can be raised to 1.3 giving close to 490
Also very important is that it hits full bust at 2800 rpm and goes all the way to the limiter with no power drop where my HKS T04E stops producing power at 6900-7000 rpm.
Small turbo , has been maxed out
BUT , the car has had this setup for 7 years with no problems. Not the most powerfull one but very reliable
Yes there is a small drop in pressure but I believe that I have ,axed out my layout both turbo and wastegate
This unit was never intended for more than 400BHP and I have passed that
My next step is a turbo kit created by my tuner including
GARRETT GT3542 with 0.74 AR and 1.04 AR exhaust
46mm external + tubular manifold + downpipe
1600cc secondary's and new map in my POWER FC
This setup gave 420 @ 0.9 bar and can be raised to 1.3 giving close to 490
Also very important is that it hits full bust at 2800 rpm and goes all the way to the limiter with no power drop where my HKS T04E stops producing power at 6900-7000 rpm.
Small turbo , has been maxed out
BUT , the car has had this setup for 7 years with no problems. Not the most powerfull one but very reliable