hey guys i was wondering which one would be better for a stock fd, im not looking for something crazy, i wanna get one of the two due to cali smog laws.

which one would be better, better perfomance, and which one would you guys get?

 

BNR all the way! If you're going to waste money on 99 spec, I'd just rebuild the ones you have. It's a waste of money buying the 99specs.

 

cool thanks man, i was also wondering if you get a pfc could you swap it out for the stock ecu when it comes time to smog?

 

There are already several good threads on this exact topic....search please.

You can rig it up so the CEL will turn on during startup with the PFC, so you don't have to swap it out for smog testing.

 

This has been brought up at least 97 gazillionamungo times. Please search

long story short, if you want basically stock twins, get the 99s. If you want to make around 400 rwhp, get the BNRs. To see what they're capable of, click the dyno link in my sig

 

oh ok thanks

 

For future reference please direct any BNR questions to Rich (Goodfella) or Brian of BNR. From the prices I have seen you might as well do the BnR3's. More bang for your buck. And Brian has excellent customer service and most importantly does quality work. That's just what I've read on the forum.

 

Bnrs, no brainer.

 

Has anyone made numbers w/ the BNR's SEQUENTIALLY that are any better than '99s, M2's, or lucky-good stock turbos? 365-375@ 15 psi is what I usually see regardless when they're sequential.

 

IMO, even if they made same numbers as stock in sequential, it would be a more reliable turbo. Come on, they're upgraded parts that can handle more abuse. BNR Baby! 300-400 RWHP, Choose your PSI!

 

what mods would you have to get including the bnrs to get to 300rwp, lets say the fd is stock, intake, exhaust, hi-flow cat, bigger secondaries, fuel pump, pfc, is there anything else i would need?

 

I dynoed at 310 rwhp with a safe tune at 10 psi with mods in my sig. I don't think I've ever seen numbers better than that at 10 psi. I made 34X rwhp at only 13.5 psi with already some ignition breakup.

My view is that up to 14-15 psi, you are only making marginally more than the stock twins with the BNRs. However, with the BNRs, you will continue making more power above 15 psi, as Rich (Goodfellas) has proven. They should also actually last a long time at 15 psi, unlike the stock twins.

I would not replace a perfectly good set of stock twins with BNRs. But to replace a set of worn-out ones, it's a no-brainer to me (if you are shooting for a lot of power).

You wouldn't even need a fuel pump or bigger secondaries with those mods. It would be much easier with a midpipe though. BNR will port the wastegate for you.

 

so then just the pfc, proper tune, the bnr stage 3, intake and exhaust....would get me to 300rwph?

 

That sounds about the same. I made 365hp/311tq @ 15 psi, and 343hp/284tq @ 12 psi on '99's.

The reliability factor is to be considered, though there isn't much wrong w/ a brand new OEM part. I got my '99's at a great deal, I certainly wouldn't have paid $2600 for them.

 

No, you'll need a downpipe and hi-flow cat as well.

Wow, good numbers. I wonder how much more I would make with a tune for 93-94 octane instead of 91. Probably not a lot, maybe 5 rwhp?

As far as reliability goes...I don't know how long 99/stock would last running 15 psi ALL the time, especially set up for sequential where the secondary has to spin so hard for the transition. We'll see.

 

Although mine are/were non-seq, I made 366 at 13 psi on a dynapack dyno.

Also, I always ran them at 15 to 17 psi with no problems whatsoever. On the street, I really couldnt get my coolant/intake temps to raise for than a few degrees despite multiple freeway pulls to 140 mph

 

I have to agree here...with a set of perfectly good turbo and if goal is less than 350 whp and less than 15 psi then why go buy BNR or any other turbo.

350 whp in an already lighten FD is plentiful to drive...IMO anything obove 350 whp would make it impractical for a street car.

Hey but you have the dough...BNRs all the way...why settle for the 99 spec turbo.

 

Hey, I was running around at 17 psi and 420 rwhp and I still wanted more

 

haaha doooah! GET THE BNR's i got the 99's thinking yeah new turbo's will be just right....i was wrong. i'll tell you what get the stage 3's and if you don't like them i'll trade you my 99's

 

True. My mustang had 502 rwhp and that wasn't enough...so step up to a 408 cid/YS trim from a 302 cid/S trim that was everything went south...the car wasn't driveable on the street at all...

 

I don't understand any of that other than 502RWHP, and wasn't driveable on the street at all...LOL

 

I think it really comes down to personal preference. I just replaced my rebuilt stock twins which didnt last more than two years on stock boost with brand new 99 spec's last week. With my rebuilds failing so quickly and reading about not being able to use synthetic oil with bnr's seals made me a question how long they were going to last (Im sure they are still a great set of turbos though).

But im a little different from most people on this board. Reliability and longevity were the most important thing when I bought my turbos, not power gains. I dont even plan on running more than 12lb's of boost on my new turbos when I get my pfc tuned for them. I am trying to get these turbos to last a long time.

 

Didnt GoodfellaFD3S have different seals in his BNR's so that he could run synthetic oil?

dynamic seals allow you to run synthetic oil right?

 

Would the BNRs be reliable for a daily driver at 14 pounds? Do the dynamic seal versions for synthetic oil work well? I would only run 17 pounds to get 400hp occassionally and when I had 100+ octane.

-Andy

 

stock twins will get you to 300
anything above 350, go with bnrs granted you have the money.