not sure I understand your question...

what do you mean by both fans coming on at "once"?

"first relay"...I assume you are talking about relay no. 1??

are you talking about having the fans come on with a switch...like the A/C switch???

I can't tell from the pictures...are the fans only wired with two wires?

 

Partially, but its going to take the path of least resistance which looks like the intercooler. Some sort of spliter between the two should help.

 

dubulup- the way I read your post it sounded like that setup would turn on one fan and then the other with AC. Is that right or does it trigger both fans at once?

I don't have the fans yet so I'm not sure how they're wired. I'd like both to pop on at the PFC-set temp. And they're 1 speed.

SO how the hell do you get the brake line that goes to the oil filter pedestal out? It's all twisted in there. Got the old OC out today and the other brake line but I can't get this darn thing out.

The driver side rad is going to be different as the outlets are reversed -low on the inside, high on the outside. Looks like a tough logic problem with the space available. Which sucks. Is there something I can replace the side marker light with? The plug sticks out really far and is taking up valuable real estate.

To clear up a couple things.
There WILL be a splitter between IC and OC.
I will NOT be running a FMIC. My ASP large is in good shape and is a fine IC.

 

My friends mechanic runs a dual rad setup. he had the rads custom made by a radiator shop. he then took 2 24x7x3 inch intercooler cores and welded them together into one because he couldn't find a a 14 inch high intercooler. then for the oil cooler, he used an FC oil cooler which he has mounted under the car behind the gas tank. i will try and find a pic.

 

Good point.

Dave

 

I haven't read through the post but isn't there a danger of running that large of an oil cooler without upgrading your oil pump. You will definitely see a drop in oil pressure.

 

Okay the first diagram I had...was triggered off the thermo switch (GND); stock is 226F, I believe...which I don't think you want.

This new diagram will trigger off the PFC settings...and you can remove the thermoswitch and relay no. 1. and 3.

Now all you have to do is ground the Black wires ("-"; I assume Black) on the fans and splice the Red/Yellow to the Red ("+") on fan #1 and White to the Red ("+") on fan #2. They will both come on at the same time...

hope this helps.

(top row rear and lower row front are the ones you want to keep...double check with the wire colors...you can also consolidate to a single row )

I don't think it will be terrible drop...as the same oil pump can pump dual coolers on opposite sides of the car; and proven with upgraded dual coolers. Just keep the lines as short as possible.

 

Actually, they're curved to maximize surface area with the same aerodynamic frontal area on the bike. Encouraging the air to go through will depend more on proper ducting.
As long as there's airflow, it doesn't matter what the ambient air temperature is (well, to a certain extent, obviously). It's not as if the radiator will get heat soaked by sitting in the engine bay; remember, there's continually heated coolant flowing through it that will always be hotter.
Yes, it's a low pressure area, but it's not a very strong low pressure area-- because of that turbulence. If it was an effective low pressure area, then brake ventilation wouldn't be necessary.
That will be the final answer. Good luck. (seriously, not being sarcastic)

 

Constructive and informed criticism is the best there is, much thanks. And yeah, I didn't mean to imply they curved the rads just to aid air flow. On the constructive front...any brilliant ideas for ducting

you're the man dubulup. any spare parts you need? i have a ton layin around.



The only thing holding me up is the darn 90deg reducer bends. There are none for sale in the US. unbelievable.

 

haha, and above I was talking about the oil line not the brake line. and dubulup answered the question thankfully.

 

Im lovin this project thnking about jumping into it also, could you tell me what year you pulled the radiators off of? I beleive 99-02 then 03-05 then 06+ Thanks. Also if you could give me any info or pics on the tubes you have made to connect the two together and a routing method so i know what bends I need to buy and hoses needed. Thanks alot.

Chris

 

The rads are from the 2003-2004 R6. They are the only years it had a curved core and straight inlet/outlets.

I would NOT recommend doing this until I figure out if it even works. I haven't been able to work on it lately but hopefully this month I'll be able to start 'er up.

 

Ok, so i'm like 2 months behind. But I put a drill with a phillips head on it through my thumb so that killed a weekend. gross picture below.
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The rads are mounted well enough for a test and here's how the oil cooler mount is working out.



It can pivot on the bolt in the center and lock into place with that tab towards the front. Came out pretty good. Tight fit with the coolant pipe, PS lines and AC condenser but it fits.







Oil lines and fittings should be in this week so this weekend or next will be the first startup with the new setup. I got one of those Lisle coolant funnel kits to help get the whole thing filled up right. i'll post up a vid when that goes down.

 

Ouch...

 

After watching the Grand Am GT car race at VIR, I realized this isn't a mod for me. A Porsche put two wheels off and hit a dip which ripped up the front right radiator. It dumped its water all over the track.

Good luck with the finger healing. Looks painful!

 

Here's what it looks like at the moment, planning on starting it up this weekend.





used to look like...

 

nice progress. Keep the pics (and progress) coming. hope your thumb didnt get infected. it was looking pretty nasty there.

 

Thanks Monkman. The thumb was very infected. Some silver nitrate and a course of antibiotics got it on the mend. Of course I did that 2 months ago and it's not right quite yet. Just need that nail to grow some.

Turning the key tonight, just a tad behind schedule. Did everything I could to get air out of the cooling system. And filled as much of the new oil lines and cooler as i could. Got the lisle tool on there and battery charged.

It's sat about seven months. After browsing the long term storage threads I plan on pulling the fuel pump fuse and cranking but that's all the prep I can think of. Anything else? Got fresh dino 5w30 in there which i'll change shortly.

Hopefully i'll have a vid tomorrow. I'm going to get some intake pipes and probably angle the OC more, then start ducting. Maybe modify the stock ASP duct but i'm sure someone out there would like one in good shape

 

I was defeated again last night...never have I screamed and yelled and threw things while working on a car.

you know who to PM.

 

egh, where to start.

The good:
Started up no problem.
No leaks.
Fluids flowed, both rads and the oil cooler got appropriately warm.

The bad:
Idle is all ate up. Too high, bounces with ISC plugged in. Nothing was turning the AAS, gotta look that up. Is it a philips, flathead, satan...etc. Maybe the fast cam, but the idle screw is loose. Throttle cable loose.

Bottom line though is that this doesn't seem to work. Idle settled at 1100rpm at one point and I had a floor fan right up on the 2nd rad and the temps kept climbing. At a decent pace up to 95c, then creeping to 100c which is where I shut it off each time.

I didn't have the rad fans hooked up but I don't think it will make enough of a difference. After all this work I'll definitely try that, but without much hope.

 

well that isn't what I wanted to hear...I think once you get the idle back under control ~800rpms, the coolant system good and burped (ratio?), and the fans hooked up you'll see some better results.

hell, if my car idled at 1100rpm with out moving or fans I'm sure it'd reach 100c in no time.

 

airborne, where are you in PA? I'd like to drop by to take a look and give you a hand if needed.

 

also something is messed up with my AC compressor. is it supposed to spin when not on? it makes a funky noise with AC on. i also replaced the belts and idler pulley. and had to move and reinstall the AC compressor. belt might be too tight or loose.

i could bleed it some more, didn't even think to run the heater.

used the premixed 50/50 coolant. before i probably ran a little more water, but not much.

i think my ultimate backup plan is to buy the griffin rads.

pm'd you eggie.

 

Im not trying to dog anyone, but I don't get this setup. Trying to run 2 rads seems like theres more that could go wrong. I haven't really read every post here but by adding a second oil cooler will lower your Coolant temps ALOT! Since oil carries out half the heat. I'm running an aftermarket rad and I added a second oil cooler and my temps are very low for a large single turbo stuffed under the hood. You would probably see better results on a vented hood then going through all that work. Just my opinion, hope it works out though.

 

yes, i believe it is. There is an electro magnetic clutch that disengages when you push the a/c button thereby engaging the compressor.

I'd say burp it and run the heater, should give you a little more time.

Water does have better thermodynamic properties than coolant. Would water wetter have any effect?

I hope to see this project succeed, it's definitely unique.