Shouldnt we want to order this?: Metric Banjo to -AN Hose PART #: BJ1810H from this parts list: http://64.202.180.37/files/metric.pdf

I was looking at Summit Racing and a lot of the fittings on Howard's list are much cheaper there. I dont know how well Summit's fittings work but if they work good, you can save at least $80 dollars by ordering from Summit.

 

does the FD have a temp thermo switch? i am asking because i want to check and see if it is working if it does have one.

 

please dont flame me lol...

would getting two of either of these kits work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__18R-Oil-Cooler-Filter-Relocater-RX8-13B-05-06-07-08-GX_W0QQitemZ350135608872QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20Access oriesQQadiZ2865QQddiZ2811QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ2 0PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35013560887 2&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3|39%3A1|24 0%3A1318

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Parts-Accessories_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Oil-Filter-Relocate-30R-Cooler-Covrette-C3-StingRay-69_W0QQitemZ350135101681QQddnZPartsQ20Q26Q20Access oriesQQadiZ2865QQddiZ2811QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ2 0PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item35013510168 1&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=65%3A3|39%3A1|24 0%3A1318

i know the whole you get what you paid spial but for certain things i dont see how certain parts can be THAT much better then others (radiators IC etc)

would these work?

 

Howard posted which hoses connect to what ports. I believe it was the post where he put a bunch of pictures of his setup. It may be hard to miss so read his post carefully and you'll find the answer. Maybe I'll make a diagram to make things easier for every one...

As far as using this with the a/c bracket in place, pomanferrari has the parts you need:

I bought these pieces from Bat Inc and they work well with my a/c bracket in place. I think I paid around ~$60 dollars with upgraded shipping for these parts.

I'll try to get some pictures of my setup in the very near future but everything works great. It's a little tricky routing the -10 hose around since its a little big and not very flexible but just take your time doing this.

 

Heres a quick diagram I made based on what Howard posted. I didnt list the hose lengths because I forgot what the actual measurements were but my lines ended up being much shorter than Howard's measurements. I bought 10 feet or hose and had plenty left over.

This should be much easier to understand for people having a hard time with this mod.

 

The factory oil cooler hoses have screwed in ends. You can remove them and run and an adapter. On my setup, i used the two factory hoses from the engine. I just removed the ends and used metric male to an fittings to run an hoses. Too bad i don't have any sizes or pics.

 

thank you very much, wan. that is perfect.

 

wan ftw, ty for the diagram! very helpful

 

Azcamel:
Each stock oil cooler has it's own thermostat. If temps are low, then there will be a bypass.

On my car, I tossed out the stock coolers and went with an aftermarket solution, and a single thermostat solution from Mocal. In general, the car runs hot enough that the thermostats are open nearly all of the time.

 

When i added up the current prices from pegasus it came to 205 bucks. So i looked around and found these prices for a total of 176.25

From Summitracing

Fitting, Straight, AN Flare to Metric, Aluminum, -8 AN to 18mm x 1.5 Male, Each $7.99 RUS-670561

Fitting, Hose End, 45 Degree, -8 AN Hose to Female -8 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each 13.95 SUM-220886

Fitting, Hose End, Straight, -8 AN Hose to Female -8 AN, Aluminum, Red/Blue Anodized, Each 6.95 SUM-220890

Hose, Braided Stainless Steel, -8 AN, 10 ft. Length, Each 44.95 SUM-230810

From Pegasus

150' Aluminum #8 Hose End / 8AN $19.49 3276-008

Male 22 x 1.5mm Metric Concave Seat to 8AN Male, Aluminum $22.99 3271-08-150

 

now i know this may make me sound like a big newb but i have a jdm and was looking to do this to my FD. was wondering if any one can let me know what side comes stock on the USDM cars

 

left- (driver side)


anyone have any comments on using a generic oil cooler from ebay?

 

depends USDM could be a R1 or R2...and it could have both. If he is talking about a touring or a base edition it is the driverside that has it.

 

thanks i have x type (touring) and it is on left as well

 

well i figured if he had the r1/r2 he wouldnt be asking cuz then he wouldnt be asking which "side" it came on... so i assumed single aka non r1/r2

oh well atleast everythings cleared up!

 

If you want to save more money, you can go with Summit Racing's Twist-tite fittings and hose. Theyre socketless fittings and cost much less. I went this route and saved more money. Summit uses a blue hose for their Twist-tite line but Jeggs carries a black line designed to work with socketless fittings. I used the blue hose since I didnt know about the black hose from Jeggs until a few days after getting my stuff in from Summit.

The only thing that sucks about Summit's socketless fittings, is that theyre a little longer than some other AN fittings. Take these 45* fittings for example:



Notice how much tighter the bend is on the Earl's fitting on the right. Both of these are -10 fittings. The tighter bend may be better if you're tight on space. I used Summit's socketless fittings on my oil coolers and while the bends werent as tight as the Earl's fittings, everything worked out for me by adjusting the position and angle of my 2nd oil cooler.

Heres one of Summit's -10 fitting for reference. This is also a -10 45* fitting just like the above two but notice how much longer the fitting is after the bend.



Like someone mentioned earlier in this thread, not all fittings are created equally. Some are more compact than others so take this into consideration if you're limited on space.

 

For the 45 degree fitting i dont see it being a problem, they are just connected to the 2nd oil cooler. The one that people might have a tight fit on is the 150 degree fitting.

 

The two 45's, with hose, on the second oil cooler will interfere with the bottom of the overflow tank. I got around this by making custom brackets for the 2nd oil cooler. I dont think it will be a problem if you use the Earl's fittings since theyre more compact.

Keep in mind that I ran into this problem using the Twist-tite fittings with -10 line. Maybe you'll have more room to play with if you use -8 lines. If you use -8 line, you can't use the banjo bolt from Bat Inc because it only comes in -10. This will be a problem for people with A/C.

 

it is great to see all the creativity going on re the dual oil cooler mod. Wan, i especially appreciate your diagram.

i now have two really slick gauges so i can monitor oil temp and pressure.



the oil temp worked out really neat. i gutted the oil level sensor in the pan, welded an aluminum bung to it and used the FJO temp sensor and gauge. i wanted to track the oil pan temp rather than at the filter which is immediately after the coolers.

for pressure i removed the OEM sensor and used the FJO sensor and gauge.

the turbo'd rotary requires more oil cooling attention than a piston engine so all of you doing the dual coolers will reap important benefits.

here are the FJO gauges:



i see about 140-150 at 70 mph on a 80 degree day. running hard on the dyno after a number of pulls it was 200.

i will be ontrack march/april and it will be interesting.

good luck to all,

howard

 

Hey Coleman are those oil temps from factory twin oil cooler or dual 25 row upgrade?
The reason I asked is because I been had the factory twin and my temp is way higher than that. In addtition I finished my pararell using two -25 row oil cooler( not does it matter in series or paraell I just want to see on my own) setup today and my garage was around 50 degree, so I deceide to test everything out for leak. The car warmup and no leaks, anyway I let the car run for 1 hour in the garage and I monitior the oil temp, it reached 220 and then the thermostat open and oil drop to 180. I happen the monitir the oil temp using RE-Speed oil pedstal.

 

if you read the first post in the thread... it is about taking a driver's side OEM cooler and adapting it to the passenger's side. the factory coolers are excellent. i am kind of surprised you hit 220 but maybe because the car wasn't moving.

my temperatures are at the pan so they should be hotter than yours as yours are just after the coolers.

hc

 

Yeah I am very surprised to considering I got the 99 bumper which have a bigger open, the only thing I don't have was the duct but there is not oem duct for the 99 bumper, unless I go with aftermarket. Well it was in the summertime in NY it was 90 degree and driving arount 30 mph and oil temp gauge pin at 250 degree at one time I guess I will have check out my thermorstat.

 

how can you focus on the road with the alien light show going on?

important tip: install a drain petcock in the balance line between the two coolers, you'll be amazed how much more dirty oil you get out during your next oil change

 

^^

WTH are you talking about friend. There is definitively ducts for the oil coolers to the 99spec bumper, infact I have seen them forsale on RHDJapan.com.

I will post up pictures in this thread of my results as I plan on doing this this winter and ducting the coolers to my Sanai bumper.

 

If your coolers aren't ducted properly that will make a big difference. A lot of the air which you would like to have go thru the cooler is going around it.