ok so bought some heat wrap and was in the process of TRYING to remove the dp..

i managed to get the top right and bottom right nut off. i only took off the intake piping for this.

now the bottom left i guess they added a bolt because a stud must of broken, the bolt is one of thos allen wrench ones, haven't removed it yet since i don't have the right size..

my problem is the top left nut, if there is one... i cant see if nor reach for it...

i tried to take my y pipe off, but it just wouldn't budge either.. i only saw 2 nuts for this and figured it would of come off but no..

any help would be appreciated.

 

I know when I pulled my downpipe off it was a nightmare. The factory locknut's were so tight that I ended up removing the DP with the engine. I later had to grind off one of the nuts due to it stripping the threads when unscrewing it. My DP also had a bolt in one of the holes. Heat will usually help when removing a stuck bolt or nut, but extreme caution must be used when operating a torch around a vehicle. If you get the bolt/nuts off, you will need to replace them with new ones. Good luck

 

Pulling the Y pipe is going to help a lot. It's a....nice lady...to get to, but it makes the DP removal/install a lot easier to deal with. You get a little extra room that way...Just shake the Y pipe violently, tends to work for me

 

how exacly do you remove the y pipe? i was talking about the 1 part of the y pipe tho, the side that goes to the i/c

 

if more people could chime in on this please, so i can finish this tomorrow

 

I don't really have any good input for you, but I went from under the car and just spend ALOT of time and yelled lots of cuss words with multiple styles of wrenches. I didn't really use any type of tricks... Just make sure you get that O2 sensor off before you yank.

I do rememeber when I removed the aftermarket downpipe though. I guess it had bent due to heat over time and had covered one of the bolts. Soooo I had to hack that guy off to get to the bolt.

 

You should be able to get all the nuts w/o removing anything else.

Hit up the nuts with WD-40 prior to attempting removal, it will help. Also, be careful when doing this since breaking studs is kinda common when doing this yourself.


I think the easiest way to get the two hard to reach bolts off is to stick your hand in there first to locate the nut itself. Then, carefully, fit your socket/ratcheting wrench on it. Don't try to get HUGE amounts of movement out of your wrench at first, if you try to push it too hard you could very well torque it at the wrong angle, stripping out the stud.


Just soak the nuts/studs, locate them with your bare hands first, and take your time/be careful. It's very doable if you've got a bit of patience.

I found the bottom nut to be easier then the top one to get off, expect to bleed a little bit, and cramp the **** out of your hand on the top one.

 

use PB Blaster instead of WD40 and let it soak overnight.

The y pipe does make it easier. It is only held on by (4) 10mm bolts into the turbos. If you've removed 4 bolts(2 at each compressor) then the y pipe should come off. Hit it with a rubber mallet if it needs some encouragement.

As for the DP itself, have patience and wear gloves or you'll wish you did. I find it helps to have ratcheting swivel headed wrenches.

good luck
t

 

This.

 

It is a royal PAIN IN THE *** to get that DP off with the motor in the car....
I just did mine this past weekend and boy did I curse this car.....

L8R

 

take off the ypipe where it connects to your turbos, its 4 nuts in total

 

i got the dp off, now that i know how to do everything, i bet i could do it in half the time or a couple hours instead 2 days.... I couldn't figure out how to take off the y pipe because i just couldn't see the last 2 nuts on the left side but first i had to take off the intake pipeing that connects directly to the back turbo ...

i know now what order i would have to do it..

take off the abs heat shield (gives extra room)

Then undo the y pipe,(i just pulled it up while i took the top bolts off the dp)

then head to the bottom and take the last two off.. if i could i would love to shorten the bolts because it was hard to fit the wrench in there because it wasn't long enough, and the long ones were to long and wouldn't fit with the socket wrench in it... this was the biggest pain

going to wrap it tomorrow

 

Yeah I never messed with my down pipe after seeing everything all tucked away but it's time to go single now. I managed to get everything off (y-pipe and and now I have the DP to go. I managed to only strip on on my way there. Oh well, won't be using them anyways. Now I have to deal with getting the pipe off of the stud. Any hints on how to do that? I disconnected it from the MP and have been wiggling it for the last 10 minutes trying to take it off.

 

Once you get the 4 bolts/studs that hold the DP on it should come out pretty easly, at least mine did.

 

I had 4 nuts holding it onto the stock turbos. Now I'm getting interference trying to get them off of the studs. It's after market so maybe it had a less than optimal bend coming out. I couldn't even get a socket onto the two lower nuts so it was all wrench action a 1/4 spin at a time alternating the wrench. I have half a mind to just saw off the studs attaching to the exhaust mani.








I can set it off the top studs and maybe off the bottom studs, but never both it seems. I was thinking about using a jack to maybe tilt the motor a bit since I don't think the RX7 may be jacked up exactly level.

 

Cancel that. Magically it just came off today. I just pry it a bit and then it surprised me when it popped out of all but one and then a little twisting it came right out. Strange. Maybe my car grew a bit in the day?

 

yea mine seemed like it was to thick to put back on and take off, it took alot of wiggling and such to get it off and back on.. mine seems thicker than others iv seen, it could just be me.

 

The HKS dp I have is ovalish so it misses the frame rail there. That DP looks like it would be a PITA to get off.

 

Haha I don't see how people get this off in a couple hours. I've been at it for days! Well a little here and there (and side tracking to the I/C, battery, catback, midpipe - damn that thing is heavy , vacuum assemby the bolts to the primary). I was honestly thinking about backing out and just getting a lower mileage set of twin and saving the single conversion for another day, but after popping those vacuum lines off with no way of being able to keep them all straight I guess I'll have to just go ahead and proceed with the single conversion and simplify things a bit. I guess buying a daily driver makes me a bit more brave. Hopefully tomorrow I'll finally be able to get the turbos out.

 

I got my DP off, turbos off, wastegate ported and remounted in a day But then again it took me 3 days to do rear diff bushings and 2 days to do motor mounts. Sometimes you get lucky sometimes you don't.

This might help you with the turbos
8bolts into the exhaust manifold + 2 for oil return

 

yea it took me 2 days about a couple hours for the 2 days to take it off, and 1 day to put it back on lol.. since i didnt have a bolt to use the socket wrench, i had the allen key one, that was a pain to screw on that took no lie 20 mins for me to tighten..... im still going to save up for a single conversion, i love the twins, but man that dp set me off the edge and finally decided to go single..... but when funds are available

 

Well my first attempt at taking the turbos out failed. I got to a point where i was like if i keep going i'm not going to make seven stock so i had to put everything back and try again later.
Hey it took me 2 weeks to put my FMIC in so i know what you guys are talking about and that was me working on it every day. Also i spend 2 days doing a break and rotor job

 

Yeah thanks a lot. I believe I found a thread by Mahjik - https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/stock-twin-turbo-nuts-bolts-locations-485829/ . So that helped me a lot. A lot of running outside and back inside to look at the comp. It looks so different out of the engine bay. I can't even see a couple bolts but I just hit the PB Blaster in the direction where I think they are. I figure let them soak over night. This torch thing I've been reading though has sparked my interest too though.

 

I am trying to put my DP on at the moment. I got a few different lengths of 8mm allen bolts, and the one that I am trying to put the DP on with now is roughly the same size as the original stud. I have about 2 or 3 threads left before it is flush with the DP, but it is really getting hard to turn. I'm afraid to keep going thinking that maybe I should be using shorter bolts since the part of the original stud that screws into the manifold is much shorter than my bolt. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, I've got the HKS DP if that matters at all...