to this nipple, I have circled...

 

Yep, that coolant hose goes on that nipple.

 

hey, you dont need safety wire FYI. just take that spring off the screw and screw it down all the way. thats what i did on mine and it works no prob. i feel its safer than relying on safety wire. youll be checking it out all the time.

paul

 

I thought so. RX74me, and I were having difficulty understanding where that hose could have possibly went. The thing is, my hose is actually like a foot long...how it fit on there, or if it was on there in the first place, I don't know. Since it was so long, and I thought it was normal, we couldn't figure out where it went, or what second hose could have been missing that connected to the bottom of the TB. Anyway, I will trim it to it's proper size, and put it in it's proper place.

Thanks, but that particular picture is not of my TB. I just used it for reference. I will be doing the butterfly removal though.

 

Glad to see work on the car progressing. I recently cleaned up garage and will be shipping items I promised hopefully this weekend. I will also be moving into my new spot this weekend. Thanks for contribution to my Domicile Fund.

 

Yep, today I installed the Apexi intakes, and put the rest of the car back together. Sadly, I don't have the tools/environment right now to do the non. seq. job. I just can't get under the car. So I will have to get that done with some help from friends. The car started up fine, but I will have to find out whats causing the oil to come out of the exhaust. I also misplaced a screw from the intercooler elbow, so I will have to purchase another one.

Glad to hear you are moving, keep me posted on how things go. When the car is finally done, I should drive out to meet you again, and show you the hard work.

Thanks so far to all those who contributed to helping me in this thread too. This is just the beginning though, as the FD will be making 400rwhp by the end of the year, should all things go smooth.

 

Oil coming out of the exhaust? That doesn't sound too good. A leaking turbo would be my guess. The other things are a malfunctioning OMP or really bad rotor oil seals.

 

Well, the oil coming from the exhaust is not in liquid form. It's in vapor form. Whenever you start the car, this happens for about 5min, then goes away once it's warm. The car has been off the entire winter, and it seems the longer it's off, the more smoke at startup. I'm only getting 2 psi (didn't run it today because of the screw I need to get), but the source of the oil leak may be the turbos, or the motor mounts. It's all over the bottom of the oil pan, and drip slightly but surely. So I will have to get it cleaned up, and see where it it coming from.

 

Sorry I didn't see your post earlier... the backup way of getting those screws out is using a phillips head hammer tool... i.e. you have a phillips head that is attached to a round tube that when hit w/ a hammer twist the phillips head loosening the screw... too little to late glad it work out...
Ryker

 

wonder1and: It's called an impact driver

Shinobi: Leaking motor mounts or oil pan will not cause oil to get in the exhaust Sounds like you have more than one leak.

 

hey what do you mean by oil out the exhaust? do you mean intake?

P.S. Hopefully ill have another seven for summer 2004

 

Shinobi, remember that in colder climates our cars will smoke more from the quick to heat up exhaust pipe rotary's

 

Are you refering to the alternator screw that would not come off that I spoke of earlier? This impact driver may be a valuable tool in the future. I'll look it up.

paw140,
I very well suspect the turbos are shot, as they were only boosting 2-3psi before. They may very well be the cause of the oil being burned in the exhaust when the car starts. It's interesting how once the car gets moving though, the oil smoke goes away. This ONLY happens when I first start it. There is too much oil on the pan itself to find the leak, so I will have to get the car up, and clean it off some. Hmmm, I never considered there could be more than one leak... good point.

No, it's the oil smoke that escapes from the exhaust whenever you start the car. It's not in liquid form.

p.s. If your going for another 7, you'd better start looking now. lol I see you changed the title above your avatar too.

Hmmm, I have yet to start the car under warm/summer conditions, but this is not a normal amount of oil smoke coming out of the exhaust. Plus, I can reach my hand under the car, and wipe oil off the bottom. Like paw140 and blackscorpio said, it's most likely the turbos, but it could be two leaks.

 

i been looking since the day i sold the cars, its a matter of money, also i replaced the wires before sale, are you sure its not gas coming out? make sur the tralings are on tight.

 

Nope, it's blue oil smoke, and you can smell it. It only happens at startup. BTW, the intake install went perfect. The big ugly air box, is out of there now.

 

dont forget that airbox is modded for better airflow

yeah the turbos are blowin a little oil, u can see it in the intercooler pipes.

 

I am new to this thread but thought I would contribute this as it seems to be everyones' problem when it comes to the dreaded rack...

Oh yeah, Jonski, Took the 7 to Rotary Performance in TX and they fixed my boost problem in about 30 minutes...seems I forgot a check valve...I was so excited I didn't even ask which one.

anyway, here's a photo of the rack out and which screws you need to attack when that part comes

 

Yeah, I saw the airbox was modified from below. Nice job. Intakes look nicer and are excellent. I took it out for a spin before the snow hit yesterday. The turbos weren't boosting, but then again, the WG and TPC solenoids are broken. Anyway, the next step is the turbo upgrade and non. seq. mod, along with the DP install.


apneablue:
Great pic. When it comes time for the non. seq. mod, that will be great to use. Those screws in the back will be hell to get to though. I'm that pic will be useful for anyone else searching the vac. hose job in the future.

 

The rear screws are a bit of a bitch to get at but with a ratchet screw driver and **** load of pressure applied to the head of the screw it should come loose just fine...I really feel it for the person who stripps the head of those rear screws...

 

That is what I fear most. Many of my screws become stripped with the greatest of ease because of the age on the car. I'm very reluctant to touch them...

 

hey hit the screws with WD-40 or liquid wrench the night b4 you pull them, that stuff works wonders.

 

f*ck those screws...why not take off the whole assembly?