Doing the vac. hose job.
#28
Pulling the alternator is easy. It's two bolts, one plug, and one wire, and just pull it out. I wouldn't worry about the pullies, unless you are just looking to do more upgrading. It's not any easier to do now that it would be later, if you know what I mean.
I'm still sequential. I think the seq. system kicks ***. There is virtually no lag, which really impressed me when I first drove the car. I've owned two other turbo cars, and I really didn't like them much because of the lag. I don't understand why so many people are going to non-seq, and not just troubleshooting and fixing their seq system.
I'm still sequential. I think the seq. system kicks ***. There is virtually no lag, which really impressed me when I first drove the car. I've owned two other turbo cars, and I really didn't like them much because of the lag. I don't understand why so many people are going to non-seq, and not just troubleshooting and fixing their seq system.
#29
Originally posted by Shinobi-X
Great...then I might as well redo the pulley system while I'm at it, as it's beginning to age too.
Great...then I might as well redo the pulley system while I'm at it, as it's beginning to age too.
#30
Paw140,
Ok then, it looks simple enough when compared to the other parts I've been pulling. The alternator will come out today. However, when removing the solenoid rack, it appears I'll have to remove a lot of "rubber" hoses beforehand, and I'm guessing they will most likely break in the process. Are the solenoid nipples only on the rack itself, or are they on the trailing part the "rubber" hose connects to also? If I have to break the "rubber" hose, I would prefer to break them the furthest away from the solenoid as possible.
As for non-sequential, right now, I'm only getting 3psi, so it's not like I'm feeling the real power anyway. I've driven in sequential FD's, and they feel awesome, but for the reasons in my post on the first page, non. seq. just seems like the better way to go. Eventually when the exhaust system is fully opened up, and I upgrade the intercooler, lag should be less of a problem.
Thanks for the information.
Ok then, it looks simple enough when compared to the other parts I've been pulling. The alternator will come out today. However, when removing the solenoid rack, it appears I'll have to remove a lot of "rubber" hoses beforehand, and I'm guessing they will most likely break in the process. Are the solenoid nipples only on the rack itself, or are they on the trailing part the "rubber" hose connects to also? If I have to break the "rubber" hose, I would prefer to break them the furthest away from the solenoid as possible.
As for non-sequential, right now, I'm only getting 3psi, so it's not like I'm feeling the real power anyway. I've driven in sequential FD's, and they feel awesome, but for the reasons in my post on the first page, non. seq. just seems like the better way to go. Eventually when the exhaust system is fully opened up, and I upgrade the intercooler, lag should be less of a problem.
Originally posted by blackscorpio
Hey one of the pulleys had seized and the belt broke. So the free wheeling pulley on the AC and PS section and the belt are new. I tensioned the belt by "feel" just to let you know.
Hey one of the pulleys had seized and the belt broke. So the free wheeling pulley on the AC and PS section and the belt are new. I tensioned the belt by "feel" just to let you know.
#31
Well, it looks like one of the nuts on the upper right front side of the alternator doesn't want to come off. It's on their really good, and pulling it only wears it down. I'm going to have to try one of the aformentioned methods, or some other one to get these old screws off.
#34
I thought this link might help you out some:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=129174
The solenoids should be interchangable. Which two are broken?
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=129174
The solenoids should be interchangable. Which two are broken?
#35
I'm still unfamiliar with exactly what solenoid is what, but in this picture, the one at the bottom of the yellow box is broken, and one in the red box is broken too. After looking, I believe they are the wastegate, and turbo precontrol. What would be the result of breaking each of these? I'm asking because I currently have a boost leak, and I didn't see them break. I'm not sure exactly how it happened, or even if I caused it so could they be a possibility for the leak?
On the solenoid rack itself(which before seeing that pic, I thought were the only solenoids I had broken), the double throttle control(closest to the alternator facing upward), and EGR solenoid broke.
How many of these do I need for non. seq. and can I interchange any of them?
Thanks Jonski for the link.
#36
Correct, that's the TPC on the left and the WG on the right.
I'm unfamiliar with the non-seq procedure, but I'm sure you are going to need a wastegate control solenoid. I don't think you will need the Turbo Control solenoid (mounted on the ACV), and if I remember correctly it has the same electrical connector that the TPC and WG solenoids use.
I'm unfamiliar with the non-seq procedure, but I'm sure you are going to need a wastegate control solenoid. I don't think you will need the Turbo Control solenoid (mounted on the ACV), and if I remember correctly it has the same electrical connector that the TPC and WG solenoids use.
#37
Originally posted by Shinobi-X
Perfect...two solenoids broken, and the cold is killing me... I heard the solenoids can be interchanged, is this true? Since I'm going non-seq. I figure I can swap them.
Perfect...two solenoids broken, and the cold is killing me... I heard the solenoids can be interchanged, is this true? Since I'm going non-seq. I figure I can swap them.
Good luck with vacum hose job. Alot of the plastic and rubber under the hood is brittle due to age and heat.
#39
Originally posted by blackscorpio
Its tropical down there compared to here where the daytime hi's are 15-20F and nightime lows are -7 to 0F.
Good luck with vacum hose job. Alot of the plastic and rubber under the hood is brittle due to age and heat.
Its tropical down there compared to here where the daytime hi's are 15-20F and nightime lows are -7 to 0F.
Good luck with vacum hose job. Alot of the plastic and rubber under the hood is brittle due to age and heat.
Originally posted by blackscorpio
Are you doing DP at the same time as the vacumm hose job, If not now is a good time to do it.
Are you doing DP at the same time as the vacumm hose job, If not now is a good time to do it.
#41
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 208
Likes: 1
From: Kansas City State of Misery
If the PB Blaster does not break free your screws and nuts. Order some Kroil it will break free anything. you cannot buy it in stores but you can online and they are running a special now anyway. www.kanolabs.com
Dave
Dave
#42
well, it looks like shin broke his wastegate and turbo control. So, since hes going non-sequential, couldnt he just swap some other solenoids in place of them if he rigged somthing up? what solenoids do u need for the full non seq conversion? Someone help him out! hehe.
#43
The double throttle control and EGR solenoid broke too, but I don't believe I need them for the non-seq. conversion. May anyone else with a non-seq setup please confirm this? and also RX-74me's question above please.
#44
you dont need those period if you eliminate what they control. they dont have anything to do with the seq. system.
if you go FULL non-seq, then you dont need any, except for the TPC and WG solenoids. . . and you only need one of them. what kind of an ecu do you have shinobi? if you have a pfc then youre straight and what a told you is all good. if you have a stock ecu, then you might have some trouble since the ecu wont have any of that emissions crapola to check. get a block off plate set from the www.rx7store.com. it has resistors in it that can be used in conjunction with the stock ecu. i have never set up my car like that as ive always had the power fc.
if you go full non-seq. then you need to take the throttle blade out of the y-pipe. if you take that apart and look in it youll find what im talking about. you also need to take the flapper door out of the exhaust manifold or at least wire it open. if you do a full conversion you can take the turbo control actuator completely off. . . hell you can do it anyways i believe. just make sure that you wire that flapper door open. dont want it flopping around in there.
youll need to plug the fuel pressure regulator vacc. line into the vacc. port on the engine side of the LIM that is pointing aft.
youre oil injector vacc. lines need to be "T"-ed together and run down to the primary TID (there is a nipple on there that you can plug them into).
i believe youre straight after that. let somebody else comment on my run-down first. a second opinion never hurts. i may have left something out.
paul
if you go FULL non-seq, then you dont need any, except for the TPC and WG solenoids. . . and you only need one of them. what kind of an ecu do you have shinobi? if you have a pfc then youre straight and what a told you is all good. if you have a stock ecu, then you might have some trouble since the ecu wont have any of that emissions crapola to check. get a block off plate set from the www.rx7store.com. it has resistors in it that can be used in conjunction with the stock ecu. i have never set up my car like that as ive always had the power fc.
if you go full non-seq. then you need to take the throttle blade out of the y-pipe. if you take that apart and look in it youll find what im talking about. you also need to take the flapper door out of the exhaust manifold or at least wire it open. if you do a full conversion you can take the turbo control actuator completely off. . . hell you can do it anyways i believe. just make sure that you wire that flapper door open. dont want it flopping around in there.
youll need to plug the fuel pressure regulator vacc. line into the vacc. port on the engine side of the LIM that is pointing aft.
youre oil injector vacc. lines need to be "T"-ed together and run down to the primary TID (there is a nipple on there that you can plug them into).
i believe youre straight after that. let somebody else comment on my run-down first. a second opinion never hurts. i may have left something out.
paul
#45
Right now, I'm running the stock ECU, but will be upgrading fairly shortly because of the upgrade plan I outlined before, wich includes the non-seq. setup, intake DP, Cat-back, and upgraded twins. Thanks for a great post though.
#46
Originally posted by JONSKI
Correct, that's the TPC on the left and the WG on the right.
I'm unfamiliar with the non-seq procedure, but I'm sure you are going to need a wastegate control solenoid. I don't think you will need the Turbo Control solenoid (mounted on the ACV), and if I remember correctly it has the same electrical connector that the TPC and WG solenoids use.
Correct, that's the TPC on the left and the WG on the right.
I'm unfamiliar with the non-seq procedure, but I'm sure you are going to need a wastegate control solenoid. I don't think you will need the Turbo Control solenoid (mounted on the ACV), and if I remember correctly it has the same electrical connector that the TPC and WG solenoids use.
#47
-UPDATE-
Weather has been crappy, so it's slowed down work, but it looks like I won't be needing the EGR or Double Throttle solenoids. I'll block off the EGR solenoid somehow, and remove the butterflies from the system. As for the Turbo Pre Control and Wastegate solenoids that are broken (1 each) I believe this is the cause of my boost leak (currently 2-3psi). It looks like I'll have to repair this, or order new TPC/WG solenoids until I'm able to do the non. seq. process.
Weather has been crappy, so it's slowed down work, but it looks like I won't be needing the EGR or Double Throttle solenoids. I'll block off the EGR solenoid somehow, and remove the butterflies from the system. As for the Turbo Pre Control and Wastegate solenoids that are broken (1 each) I believe this is the cause of my boost leak (currently 2-3psi). It looks like I'll have to repair this, or order new TPC/WG solenoids until I'm able to do the non. seq. process.
#48
Does anyone have any other pics they can offer with the intercooler elbow off? I'm trying to find out where two hoses attach. One is next to the oil filter, has screw type clamps, and is about a foot long. There is also a nipple under the throttle body, but I can't find the hose that connects to it.
Last edited by Shinobi-X; 02-04-03 at 05:20 PM.