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Doing the vac. hose job.

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Old 01-13-03 | 10:34 AM
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Great...then I might as well redo the pulley system while I'm at it, as it's beginning to age too.
Old 01-13-03 | 10:37 AM
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Have any of you gone non. sequential?
Old 01-13-03 | 10:44 AM
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Pulling the alternator is easy. It's two bolts, one plug, and one wire, and just pull it out. I wouldn't worry about the pullies, unless you are just looking to do more upgrading. It's not any easier to do now that it would be later, if you know what I mean.

I'm still sequential. I think the seq. system kicks ***. There is virtually no lag, which really impressed me when I first drove the car. I've owned two other turbo cars, and I really didn't like them much because of the lag. I don't understand why so many people are going to non-seq, and not just troubleshooting and fixing their seq system.
Old 01-13-03 | 10:52 AM
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Originally posted by Shinobi-X
Great...then I might as well redo the pulley system while I'm at it, as it's beginning to age too.
Hey one of the pulleys had seized and the belt broke. So the free wheeling pulley on the AC and PS section and the belt are new. I tensioned the belt by "feel" just to let you know.
Old 01-13-03 | 01:02 PM
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Paw140,
Ok then, it looks simple enough when compared to the other parts I've been pulling. The alternator will come out today. However, when removing the solenoid rack, it appears I'll have to remove a lot of "rubber" hoses beforehand, and I'm guessing they will most likely break in the process. Are the solenoid nipples only on the rack itself, or are they on the trailing part the "rubber" hose connects to also? If I have to break the "rubber" hose, I would prefer to break them the furthest away from the solenoid as possible.

As for non-sequential, right now, I'm only getting 3psi, so it's not like I'm feeling the real power anyway. I've driven in sequential FD's, and they feel awesome, but for the reasons in my post on the first page, non. seq. just seems like the better way to go. Eventually when the exhaust system is fully opened up, and I upgrade the intercooler, lag should be less of a problem.

Originally posted by blackscorpio
Hey one of the pulleys had seized and the belt broke. So the free wheeling pulley on the AC and PS section and the belt are new. I tensioned the belt by "feel" just to let you know.
Thanks for the information.
Old 01-13-03 | 04:37 PM
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Well, it looks like one of the nuts on the upper right front side of the alternator doesn't want to come off. It's on their really good, and pulling it only wears it down. I'm going to have to try one of the aformentioned methods, or some other one to get these old screws off.
Old 01-22-03 | 08:23 AM
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Hows is the hose job going?
Old 01-23-03 | 12:50 PM
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Perfect...two solenoids broken, and the cold is killing me... I heard the solenoids can be interchanged, is this true? Since I'm going non-seq. I figure I can swap them.
Old 01-23-03 | 01:37 PM
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I thought this link might help you out some:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=129174

The solenoids should be interchangable. Which two are broken?
Old 01-23-03 | 02:01 PM
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I'm still unfamiliar with exactly what solenoid is what, but in this picture, the one at the bottom of the yellow box is broken, and one in the red box is broken too. After looking, I believe they are the wastegate, and turbo precontrol. What would be the result of breaking each of these? I'm asking because I currently have a boost leak, and I didn't see them break. I'm not sure exactly how it happened, or even if I caused it so could they be a possibility for the leak?

On the solenoid rack itself(which before seeing that pic, I thought were the only solenoids I had broken), the double throttle control(closest to the alternator facing upward), and EGR solenoid broke.

How many of these do I need for non. seq. and can I interchange any of them?

Thanks Jonski for the link.
Old 01-23-03 | 03:58 PM
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Correct, that's the TPC on the left and the WG on the right.

I'm unfamiliar with the non-seq procedure, but I'm sure you are going to need a wastegate control solenoid. I don't think you will need the Turbo Control solenoid (mounted on the ACV), and if I remember correctly it has the same electrical connector that the TPC and WG solenoids use.
Old 01-24-03 | 07:36 AM
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Originally posted by Shinobi-X
Perfect...two solenoids broken, and the cold is killing me... I heard the solenoids can be interchanged, is this true? Since I'm going non-seq. I figure I can swap them.
Its tropical down there compared to gere where the daytime hi's are 15-20F and nightime lows are -7 to 0F.
Good luck with vacum hose job. Alot of the plastic and rubber under the hood is brittle due to age and heat.
Old 01-24-03 | 07:37 AM
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Are you doing DP at the same time as the vacumm hose job, If not now is a good time to do it.
Old 01-24-03 | 11:40 AM
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Originally posted by blackscorpio

Its tropical down there compared to here where the daytime hi's are 15-20F and nightime lows are -7 to 0F.
Good luck with vacum hose job. Alot of the plastic and rubber under the hood is brittle due to age and heat.
Eek, thats horrible. But it's all relative. I know it's cold up their though, based on when I was up their last. Now I know why you were talking about how cold it was when working on the FD outside. ...this process could take a while.

Originally posted by blackscorpio
Are you doing DP at the same time as the vacumm hose job, If not now is a good time to do it.
Yeah, I'm going to do the DP after searching for the procedure. I'm also waiting on the intake I ordered (Apexi) and have to pick up the polished efini Y-pipe from FD3boost. Also too, while the UIM and TB is off, I'm most likely going to get them polished too. I may have to get some help with the non. seq. procedure though, as it will be difficult to get under the car and unscrew things. The other day I tried to take the TCA off, but one of the screws was being difficult. Without getting the right angle, I don't know how I'll do it. ...and even if it's colder around your way, it's still COLD down here. I'll have to take a look at the non. seq. procedure to see what I can do with the solenoids. If it turns out I don't get full boost back, I'll just take out the turbos, and send them to be repaired and upgraded at BNR (Stage 3)...well actually, this will happen anyway, but hopefully in time so I can save up some.
Old 01-25-03 | 04:34 AM
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change your FPD also
oh and get your injectors cleaned.
Old 01-25-03 | 06:20 AM
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If the PB Blaster does not break free your screws and nuts. Order some Kroil it will break free anything. you cannot buy it in stores but you can online and they are running a special now anyway. www.kanolabs.com
Dave
Old 01-28-03 | 04:39 PM
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well, it looks like shin broke his wastegate and turbo control. So, since hes going non-sequential, couldnt he just swap some other solenoids in place of them if he rigged somthing up? what solenoids do u need for the full non seq conversion? Someone help him out! hehe.
Old 01-28-03 | 04:45 PM
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The double throttle control and EGR solenoid broke too, but I don't believe I need them for the non-seq. conversion. May anyone else with a non-seq setup please confirm this? and also RX-74me's question above please.
Old 01-28-03 | 05:24 PM
  #44  
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you dont need those period if you eliminate what they control. they dont have anything to do with the seq. system.

if you go FULL non-seq, then you dont need any, except for the TPC and WG solenoids. . . and you only need one of them. what kind of an ecu do you have shinobi? if you have a pfc then youre straight and what a told you is all good. if you have a stock ecu, then you might have some trouble since the ecu wont have any of that emissions crapola to check. get a block off plate set from the www.rx7store.com. it has resistors in it that can be used in conjunction with the stock ecu. i have never set up my car like that as ive always had the power fc.

if you go full non-seq. then you need to take the throttle blade out of the y-pipe. if you take that apart and look in it youll find what im talking about. you also need to take the flapper door out of the exhaust manifold or at least wire it open. if you do a full conversion you can take the turbo control actuator completely off. . . hell you can do it anyways i believe. just make sure that you wire that flapper door open. dont want it flopping around in there.

youll need to plug the fuel pressure regulator vacc. line into the vacc. port on the engine side of the LIM that is pointing aft.

youre oil injector vacc. lines need to be "T"-ed together and run down to the primary TID (there is a nipple on there that you can plug them into).

i believe youre straight after that. let somebody else comment on my run-down first. a second opinion never hurts. i may have left something out.

paul
Old 01-28-03 | 06:34 PM
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Right now, I'm running the stock ECU, but will be upgrading fairly shortly because of the upgrade plan I outlined before, wich includes the non-seq. setup, intake DP, Cat-back, and upgraded twins. Thanks for a great post though.
Old 01-28-03 | 07:31 PM
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Originally posted by JONSKI
Correct, that's the TPC on the left and the WG on the right.

I'm unfamiliar with the non-seq procedure, but I'm sure you are going to need a wastegate control solenoid. I don't think you will need the Turbo Control solenoid (mounted on the ACV), and if I remember correctly it has the same electrical connector that the TPC and WG solenoids use.
What I meant by this post was that IF you don't need the Turbo Control solenoid AND you don't need the Turbo Pre-Control solenoid THEN you might be able to use your Turbo Control solenoid as your WG solenoid. I think the TC, TPC, and WG solenoids all have the same type of electrical connector. Just plug in the TC solenoid to the WG electrical plug if this is the case. Having nothing on your TPC and TC solenoid plugs may cause a check engine light, though.
Old 02-01-03 | 11:04 AM
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-UPDATE-

Weather has been crappy, so it's slowed down work, but it looks like I won't be needing the EGR or Double Throttle solenoids. I'll block off the EGR solenoid somehow, and remove the butterflies from the system. As for the Turbo Pre Control and Wastegate solenoids that are broken (1 each) I believe this is the cause of my boost leak (currently 2-3psi). It looks like I'll have to repair this, or order new TPC/WG solenoids until I'm able to do the non. seq. process.
Old 02-04-03 | 05:15 PM
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Does anyone have any other pics they can offer with the intercooler elbow off? I'm trying to find out where two hoses attach. One is next to the oil filter, has screw type clamps, and is about a foot long. There is also a nipple under the throttle body, but I can't find the hose that connects to it.

Last edited by Shinobi-X; 02-04-03 at 05:20 PM.
Old 02-04-03 | 05:31 PM
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There is a large hose that attaches to the intake elbow. I don't recall there being any nipples under the throttle body, except for the coolant line.
Old 02-04-03 | 05:42 PM
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The hose I'm pointing to in blue, connects under the TB right?



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