Do i need a Wideband A/F Gauge
01-08-15 | 12:59 AM
#26
Who is arguing? did you not catch the smiley and the actual sincere question in regards to how the stock ECU controls boost? For a minute there I thought I was gonna learn something but instead I got a tude and never got an answer.
I was't arguing then but now I am. But you are right he doesn't need a boost controller, he just needs to control boost. However, you stating that the stock ECU on a car equipped with free flowing mods without an external assurance of boost control is insane. You talk about me being irresponsible? You could cause him an engine.
So in other words: You don't know either. K thanks. I'll be honest though: I hadn't thought about it much I just knew that as soon as mods are added boost control goes out the window on a stock setup unless the end user physically does something about it. If you disagree then explain this: Why didn't his stock boost control help?
Given the stock ECU's elusive boost control works so well: I guess the three mod rule came to be because people were NOT blowing their engines due to mods right? Granted the three mod rule has been deemed obsolete because it was proven by wade that the ECU runs rich enough at stock boost. Key word STOCK BOOST. As it turned out, it was indeed the elevated boost conditions from free flowing mods that were causing people engines. The fact is if the ECU controlled boost (after mods) then there would not be so much information on drilling pills, manual boost control, electronics boost control, nor lambda tests.
Didn't I say that already: 
lol
Thank you but I will clarify: That in no way I would presume to know more than someone who does this for a living not even close. So when I don't know something I ask for it to be clarified so I can understand it for myself. Some people get offended because apparently their word should be taken as gospel without any kind of explanation.
Again, in actuality I made an error by explicitly stating he needed a boost controller. I should had clearly stated that he just needed to control boost at 10 psi in however means he deems fit. 10 psi meaning no creep, no spikes, nothing. A solid 10 psi of boost or less on the stock ECU.
Seriously? Of course the ECU controls the sequential turbos. Read the factory service manual. Why do you think there are wastegate and precontrol solenoids, charge relief, Turbo control, and charge control solenoids?
Boost seems to be a very intricate part of an FD. It seems that everyone has a different result from mods that are done.
When I put in a CB, my boost was just fine at 10-8-10. I put in the DP and spiked to 15. I immediatedly removed the pills and put in 2 valves and seemed to have it under control. I put the intake in and had to adjust it lower again.
When I put in a CB, my boost was just fine at 10-8-10. I put in the DP and spiked to 15. I immediatedly removed the pills and put in 2 valves and seemed to have it under control. I put the intake in and had to adjust it lower again.
OP- if you have creep, port your wastegate, a boost controller does absolutely nothing to stop it from happening
lolI see what Montego is saying, take a stock turbo system and say you are boosting to 12psi with your mods. Take out the pills and you are still hitting 9psi but, you want the 10psi so you take the pills out and add a boost controller and you can keep it at 10psi.
In this way a boost controller can lower your boost because you are removing the pills that are designed to keep you at 10psi along with the wastegate by restricting air flow as they are no longer allowing enough air through.
Saying that, porting the wastegate is the better route.
In this way a boost controller can lower your boost because you are removing the pills that are designed to keep you at 10psi along with the wastegate by restricting air flow as they are no longer allowing enough air through.
Saying that, porting the wastegate is the better route.
Again, in actuality I made an error by explicitly stating he needed a boost controller. I should had clearly stated that he just needed to control boost at 10 psi in however means he deems fit. 10 psi meaning no creep, no spikes, nothing. A solid 10 psi of boost or less on the stock ECU.
Last edited by Montego; 01-08-15 at 01:26 AM.
01-08-15 | 02:22 AM
#27
I can't discharge air any faster than it can exit the wastegate.
I'm not trying to convince you to get one. I'm just giving you the facts so you can make an informed decision.
01-08-15 | 02:40 AM
#28
You do not need one for your setup. I would recommend a boost gauge and maybe linearize the stock coolant gauge and thats it. Keep the boost and temps in check and drive the heck out of the car and enjoy it!
01-08-15 | 12:09 PM
#29
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 35
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From: SoCal
Actually that is false. A boost controller won't work below the wastage spring. So on a stock twin FD a boost controller will work from 7psi and above. Not being able to control boost above the spring typically applies when you have a creeping condition. But if the wategate is ported, boost will be controllable. I'm not trying to convince you to get one. I'm just giving you the facts so you can make an informed decision.
01-08-15 | 12:12 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: SoCal
I'm running defi boost, water and oil temp gauges! This is my dilemma, with the a/f my car will look like a tunercar spaceship. Trying to keep a mostly stock clean interior.
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