I'm halfway through a brake job. I've never had this many problems doing brakes on my other 7s...

Anyway, the screws that hold the front rotors on will not come off. Sprayed WD40 on there a few days ago and they still won't budge. I'm pretty sure the heads will strip the next time I try it. After I drill these ******* out, will I need to replace these screws? Or am I OK without them? Where can I buy these things? I'd like to get them local if I can.

Its kinda funny now that I actually bent a 18" long thick screw driver trying to pry off my rear rotors. Hammering with a 2lb sledge had no effect other than to **** up the old rotor. I had to wedge a 3' crow bar between the rear rotor and hub assebly and push as HARD as I could to get the rear rotors off! I wonder if these are the original 120k rotors... I put a nice coat of Mobil 1 synthetic grease back there so this will not happen again.

thanks for the info.

 

lol

I was like why the **** would you want a screw in your front rotor (read engine)...

Put the screw back in.... your brake rotors that is....

 

I had to drill mine out. I never put them back in(needless to say) and Ive never had any probs.

 

yes you need to install it

otherwise you'll have axial play in your hub assembly and it can alter your camber when you hit hard corners, this has been proven to affect steering, handling, and braking

 

The screws just hold the rotor in place while the wheel is being bolted on. The wheel itself is what clamps the brake rotor to the hub.
There is no way leaving the screw out could affect your suspension.

To remove them I use am impact driver, or drill off the heads. After that, use vise grips to remove the remaining screw. If you want replacements, go to Mazda, but they are not a necessary part of the car. They merely hold the brake rotor in place.

 

They are a saftey mandated issue, I believe. Supposed to keep the brake rotor on there if the wheel falls off so you can look properly ghetto on COPS late at night running from the police.

If you replace them, try going to a screw and bolt specialty store, and get one with a Allen (hex) key fitting. It'll make it easier to remove next time. Or just leave it off, but make sure the rotor is seated when putting the brake shoes back on and also the wheel...

 

can't use one with an allen head, cause it is inset in the rotor to allow the wheel to bolt on ... right?

 

Leave it off. It will not do anything having it removed. The wheel sandwhiches between the hub and the rotor. The rotor could have 900 screws in it and it won't make a difference.

The correct tool to use for the hard to remove ones is an "impact driver." It's a screwdriver tip (or other) with a cam mechanism that turns the bit as you hit the end of the tool with a hammer. What makes it work great is that the process of applying inward force also creates rotational force.

 

One: without a wheel, a brake cannot function. it would have no connection against the road to brake against.
Two: the pads will hold the brake rotor in place. You need to unbolt the caliper to ever remove the brake rotor.
Three: Not all cars use a screw to hold the rotor in place, since the wheel does the job, and if your wheel falls off, you're screwed brake rotor on, or off.

 

When I read this: otherwise you'll have axial play in your hub assembly

I said WTF? Does he think that one measly screw of about 10 mm will hold back a 40 lb wheel/tire assembly that supports 550 lb per side?

You can leave that screw off. I think it'll be even better b/c it's now semi-floating rotors (not true b/c of the clampling of the wheel onto the hub, but I'm fantasizing here).

 

yes you need to install it

otherwise you'll have axial play in your hub assembly and it can alter your camber when you hit hard corners, this has been proven to affect steering, handling, and braking

 

camber? would you care to explain why camber?

 

sorry, but I just dont believe that, the wheel, when bolted up will keep anything from moving.

 

Mine's been out for 5.5K miles... no problems so far (and none expected!)

-Manolis

 

No it won't.

Whoever told you this was totally ******* with you.

 

Thanks fellas. That was informative as well as amusing

Can't wait to drive again

 

You really should use an impact driver, it makes a tough job pretty simple.

Getting the rotors off can be a bit difficult if they haven't been removed in a while. Use a rubber mallet around the outer edge of the rotor while spinning it and it should work itself loose.

The screw for the rotor isn't really necessary as it only holds the rotor in place before the wheel is put on. After that it does nothing. In my case, I chose to put the screw back in, only because it was in very good condition.

Mark

 

The rotors both front and rear have threaded holes in the hub area for the purpose of removing the rotor. No need to bang on them with anything, just thread the proper sized bolt through the hole and as you tighten the bolt it will push the rotor off the hub.

The alternator belt tension bolt is just the right size

(and I left my rotor screws out long ago too)

 

Damon - I didn't think of doing that on the rear rotor. Thats OK I needed the exercise anyway. However, both holes in my front rotors have those holes occupied. If I can get them out, I will take your suggestion. Otherwise, I'll get another workout.

I'm gonna try and find the impact screw driver thing at the local auto parts store. Also might restore the aluminum finish to my suspesion pieces while I'm under there. I love the shape of the suspension arms and wouldn't mind cleaning up down there and making it look less like a 120k miles 10 year old car

 

Use a torch to get the screws out. Mine were in there pretty damn hard, and I heated it up then let it cool down and then heated it up again and then they screwed out. I reused them when I was done.

 

There's nothing to remove. There is a small extra hole in the rotor's hub area that is threaded. It stays blank; nothing to remove except of course the rotor screws if you are using them. If you look for it the extra hole stares you right in the face, but otherwise it's always overlooked because you aren't used to using it

I had to originally drill my rotor screws out because even with an impact driver the heads stripped; mine were IN there. I wasn't smart enough to think of just heating them with a torch at the time...

 

WTF?? Is this a double post.

You are so freaking wrong it's not even funny. The only way for camber to be fixed is to equate that little freaking screwing holding everything into alignment. IT'S NOT.

Go look instead of posting misinformation.

And where did you get proof that it alters cambers? May be you took the screw out and drove around with only one lug nut?

 

Sears has them for about 25$.

 

No need to reuse or install the screw. There are hex heads that mount flush same as the phillips screw. They usually are much better quality of steel. Also, a guaranteed must is to install some never-seize compound on the threads to prevent them from sticking next time. A small film of this can also be installed on the rotor where it meets the hub to help in the removal of the rotor later.

Tim

 

thanks. I probably will not re-install the screws at this time. Unless i can get them off somehow. Too cold and snowy in NY right now and i'm worn out from shoveling!

I bought some Mobile 1 high temp grease and used that on the back of the rotor/hub area so that they wouldn't get stuck again in the future and also on the caliper Link and Guide bolts.