Well the cleaning, greasing and siliconing only took about 30 minutes. The whole process including getting the window out and back in took an hour. I already had the panel off the re-seal the metal seams between side impact beams and outer skin. That made my doors shut nice and solid sounding.

 

Just wanted to say thanks for writing up this post and for all of the great pictures. My passenger side window was rolling down quickly, but would almost stall when rolling it back up. Using your write-up, I was able to clean everything and re-lube and it works just like new!!!

Again, thank you for taking the time to do such a great write-up!

Justin

 

<double post>

 

Your very welcome!

 

i just pulled my door panels last night to ship out, so i'll have to do this to my driver's side window...it never goes up unless i help it by pulling up as i push the button.

 

What are you having done to your panels?

 

check out the 2nd line of my sig.

 

I've done all this and the window works MUCH better however on the last 10 percent travel before it reaches bottom it still sometimes gets stuck and i have to push down and up a bunch of times before it will come up... any idea what might be at fault?

 

If the window is not binding than there may be a problem with your motor.

Take the entire motor & track assembly out and get a 12v power source and run it up and down. Maybe it will still get stuck even without having to move the glass. If your cleaned and lubed the tracks and the window is not binding than I would take a look at replacing the motor. Ray Crowe told me you can buy just the motor for a 94 and swap the gear on it to install in the 93 assembly. Otherwise you have to buy the entire 93 setup which is over $300 I believe.

 

I wouldn't use silicone lube. I did and it collect dirt over time. I got a lube from a place that installs windows. It was a sprayable graphite lube, or atleaset thats what he said. Didn't bother to look at the composition. Using that stuff lasted over a year before it needed a touch up vs a month or so with the WD-40.

 

WD-40 and silicone spray are not the same thing. I would not put WD-40 on the rubber tracks.

 

I've bench tested it and no problems with it all the way lowered. Possibly the added weight of gravity? I have a 94 so i'm in luck there but it's just one of those weird lil things that drives you nuts... I personally dont feel any binding but then again when the glass is that low it's not like i can grab onto it and pull/push.

 

Are you sure the run channel is perfectly even? Pull it out and inspect it. You can also place the window in the track (without the regulator) and use your own hands to slide it up and down to check for resistance.

 

just did this. window seems to be going up faster when lubing the rubber run channels than the regulator track.

 

Lubing the run channel makes the biggest difference. But like I said earlier, the regulator itself still needs the re-luding maintenance as the 17yr old lube is all but gone and filled with dirt.

 

Well, it took me a little over a year but I finally got around to doing this today. Definitely helped the window go up normally. Small things make the car feel newer again.

Also installed some Second Skin (dynamat type stuff - see Interior/Exterior forum) inside the door while I was there.

 

Because it sure as hell keeps getting older. LOL!

 

Did you use their spray gun with it or just paint it on? I'm saving for some Lizard Skin ceramic coating and sound dampening. Just wondering if I should spend the extra $80 and get the gun with it.

 

If i dont want to remove everything and just apply the lube to the channels because i may not be able to put the window,motor etc back in

Would that help/work somewhat?

 

great write-up. my passenger side window is almost at a standstill sometimes...

 

Good writeup, doing this this weekend to my 85, slightly different process but same concept. Needs adjustment on passenger side (sometimes the window falls in a bit off track and requires me pushing it on track with my thumb)

Hope this fixes it.

 

fyi on my 93 touring there's 2 extra screws to pull the passenger door off. to get to one you have to pull the power window switch off (just use a flathead screwdriver to pry it up), then you can barely see the screw if you look inside. the second is below the handle behind a small plastic cover that you pop off, again with a flathead screwdriver

 

Now, from what I can gather, "bumping" old threads is not condoned, but having some form of input is okay. I also felt that since 7club is a gathering of rx-7 lovers and since our cars are getting rarer (and as such less owners), it is important to stay involved.

Anyway, so my contribution! I just tried this lil' trick today and it took me approximately 4 hours (I'm an extreme beginner), but this proves it can be done by anyone. I also didn't have silicone grease on hand, so I used WD-40 (I know, I'm crazy), between the window rubber seals and believe it or not, that actually helped! As for the grease to lube up the motor wires and track, Shinetsu grease which is an OEM Honda product works wonders! S2000 guys use it between the crevices on their hardtops. Also, remember to wipe off the original grease before applying your new compound, since it seemed that over time the grease started to solidify and stuck to the motor wires. When applying, I suggest use it liberally, BUT make sure that it's applied evenly so that it doesn't clump together. When the OP mentions applying it to the bundle of wires, just rub some onto them, move motor up and down, then repeat. That's about it and have fun with 7s guys!

 

Nothing wrong with bumping a thread this good.

 

Hmm I guess I should have posted an update. This is how my windows perform 4 years later.

T-von NA 20b old starter:

Not bad for 21 year old regulators. Btw my 94 fd was built in Sept 93.