Been covered before by various folks but here it is again for anyone wanting a fresh look at the install.

If you don't already know then you should understand that one of the top maintenance items for the FD is a clean fuel filter. If the filter experiences a D/P ( that is a diffrential pressure drop ) across it then your engine could detonate until a hard pull due to fuel starvation.

Very, very easy to understand - Engine overhaul = 3 grand, Fuel filter = $15 bucks.

So Mazda engineers did not take into account very throughly about the replacement of this vital part and ended up shoe-horning it up in the rafters on the back of our FDs. Hard to get to, busted knuckles, gasoline running down the arm - you get the picture.

Solution - relocation and upgrade while you are at it with a Fuel Pressure gauge.

Look at my pics below ( like my stick pointer ? ). You will see that I re-used the OEM bracket and bolted it to the rear subframe. Easy to get to and dependable.

Steps to install this modification....

1) Raise the car, keep safety in mind.
2) depressure the fuel system by following "release the fuel psi" on page F-95 of the green 1993 shop manual, also remove the fuel filler cap.
3) Remove the rear Driver-side plastic cover ( where the fuel psi sender is in the pic ) these are 10mm bolts
4) Raise the hatch, remove the Bose ( if equip. ) peel back the carpet and remove the fuel pump cover.
5) Look for the fuel supply line from the pump to the engine. Verify it is correct.
6) Trace the fuel supply line down to the work area under the car and mark it.
7) All IGNITION sources must be eliminated - no smoking, fire, etc, etc. Now using a midget tubing cutter, cut the 5/16" steel fuel supply line near the area where it 45 degrees downward over the driver side axle assembly towards the front. NOTE - look at my pictures and locate that area. Does not have to be exact, but enough hard line needs to be left behind to tie back into with the fuel filter outlet.
8) Go back in the hatch and remove the supply line double clamps and work the hard line out of the rubber fuel hose. Don't wreck the stock hose.
9) Now using 10mm sockets/wrenches - remove the entire fuel filter element and bracket. I am not going to describe to you the best way to snake this out, but we need to reuse a portion of the fuel pump outlet hard line, so don't bend it up too terribly. The FILTER outlet hard line will be tossed out, so cut that again with the midget tubing cutter to make it easier. There is also several line retainers ( white nylon ). Hit them with a small dab of PB blaster and the line will pop out. Be careful about ignition sources - FIRE !
10) Retain the hard line mentioned above and remove the bracket from the OEM filter. Clean and paint your bracket later like I did if you wish.
11) Clean up any fuel that was spilled - THROUGHLY. Temporarily plug both the line to the engine and the rubber hose from the pump. Allow an hour or two to pass before proceeding to dissapate vapors. You will be drilling two holes ! Drill is not intrinsicaly safe you know. Use this time to go get the following from NAPA
a) Fuel filter puralator F33144 ( application for a 90's Corvette )
b) Two fuel line repair kits - NAPA BK-7304929
c) 1 foot of HIGH pressure fuel line 3/8" diameter.
d) 8 small stainless steel hose clamps to fit the 3/8" hose.

12) Come back and insert your new filter ( look for inlet/outlet arrow ) into the oem bracket, locate it on the subframe, scribe and drill two holes slightly smaller than 1/4" diameter ( next one down ). Tap these for 6MM bolts. Can't remember the thread pitch at this time. You will need to use a 90 head drill to do the holes.
13) Get a couple 6mm bolts and mount the filter like I have it in the photos.
14) Take the hard line piece from the pump outlet and bend it to conform with the path I have shown you in the pics. Measure 4 times, cut/bend once. Remount it in the pump outlet for measuring up the next step.
15) Take one of the NAPA 7304929 and using a 3/8" bender, make your piece for the new fuel filter inlet. Engineer it so the space between the stocker inlet line and your new line will take app. 4" of fuel hose. Deburr the end. Use double clamps on both ends of the lines. Install temporarily.
16) Measure and bend another 7304929 to fit as I have shown you in the pics. Measure 4 times, bend only once. Deburr the end
17) Tie in the other end of this supply line to the line running forward ( deburr it too )with 4" of fuel hose. Yes the 3/8" will slide over easily and double clamps will hold it.
18) Check all the line angles to make sure nothing is kinked, rubbing against anything, etc.

Now that it is fit tested, remove it and paint your filter, bracket. Re-install everything and make sure the FP outlet hard line snaps back into it's nylon retainer up on top by the gas tank. Every hose connection whould be double clamped like the oem pump outlet is. Orient the clamps 90 degrees apart.

Double check everything.

Have an assistant key on ( do not start) to pressure up the system. You will hear the buzzing/squeeching sound from the pump as it pressurizes. Hopefully you have done you job well and there is not leaks.

Now we can talk about what it takes for the TEE and fuel pressure sender install....

Disclaimer - you assume all responsibility of your actions using these install steps. Have a master mechanic perform the modification.

Later

 

another(picts):
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/fuel_filter_move.htm

how to change with a little modification(picts):
http://www.mazdarxparts.com/index.php?topic=22.0

 

Note - Where I called for 3/8" fuel inj hose - use 5/16" instead. I later checked mine and what I used was 5/16". It may be hard to slip over the 3/8" tubing, but it will go. Twist it on for an inch, so that two clamps can be installed at each connection.



Later