DIY Engine rebuild
#1
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DIY Engine rebuild
So I was bored and hit 100k mark on the car and decided it was time to rebuild. It's my first time taking a job this big and things have been going pretty good so far. I'm kinda stuck at the moment while I wait for mazdatrix to send the stuff so I can remove the flywheel and resume progress. I'll try to get some pics up here because I've been doing a little bit of powdercoating as I move along. If anyone has some tips or tricks on anything that might be useful let me know.
What's the best rebuild video to use? I've seen several anywhere from $25 to over $100.
What's the best rebuild video to use? I've seen several anywhere from $25 to over $100.
#3
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Yes please do post pics. Especially pics of everything before you clean it. I would love to see how much carbon you have with that kind of mileage and your housing surface condition. Not too many people make it that far on the original engine. My engine also has slightly over 100k too. It's running really good but I may open it up anyways to refresh it some.
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Originally Posted by spavo
So I was bored and hit 100k mark on the car and decided it was time to rebuild. It's my first time taking a job this big and things have been going pretty good so far. I'm kinda stuck at the moment while I wait for mazdatrix to send the stuff so I can remove the flywheel and resume progress. I'll try to get some pics up here because I've been doing a little bit of powdercoating as I move along. If anyone has some tips or tricks on anything that might be useful let me know.
What's the best rebuild video to use? I've seen several anywhere from $25 to over $100.
What's the best rebuild video to use? I've seen several anywhere from $25 to over $100.
#6
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I bought a powdercoater a while ago and went nuts with it. I've seen a lot of polished aluminum on engines and it looks great but I think I'm going to see what she looks like with red and black powdercoat just to change up from the norm. I do think I'm going to have to get the UIM and all that polished, that just wouldn't look good covered up.
Here's the water pump and that whole assy. I also have a few other pullys in red, by time I'm done all of them will be red.
Here's the water pump and that whole assy. I also have a few other pullys in red, by time I'm done all of them will be red.
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#9
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Originally Posted by spavo
So I was bored and hit 100k mark on the car and decided it was time to rebuild.
Oh yea make sure you get your injectors cleaned and flow tested. I consider it a must for any fuel injected rotary rebuild. Chances are your secondaries are slightly clogged with your higher mileage. This can and will cause you a lean condition. Don't chance it.
Last edited by t-von; 04-12-06 at 03:43 AM.
#10
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Every one has hit it on the head. The RA vid is assume! I have that and the one from New Zeeland. RA's has more useable info like the important cleaning of parts and also lists all the necessary products to put it together tools, sealants, etc. Much more real world! Injectors are important, because other than whats been stated, I feel the gasoline smell in our oil can be atributed to leaking injectors. I didn't start that thought, I read it here on the forum and agree.
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teardown
Still waiting on the ole flywheel removal tools. Hopefully they'll be in within the next couple of days. I've got everything taken off that I can possibly think of.
I guess in the mean time I'll be making the attaching parts look pretty while I wait.
Here's some pics of where I'm at so far... note the custom engine stand bracket, she's just a little crooked.
I guess in the mean time I'll be making the attaching parts look pretty while I wait.
Here's some pics of where I'm at so far... note the custom engine stand bracket, she's just a little crooked.
#14
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Originally Posted by spavo
Still waiting on the ole flywheel removal tools.
Dude go to Sears and buy a 2 1/8" 3/4" drive socket. 3/4" drive ratchet. Find a scrap piece of angle iron and drill two holes in it to match two of the holes for the clutch bolts on the flywheel. Break the nut loose and use a pry bar behind the flywheel and hammer near the center of the flywheel to pop the flywheel off. Make sure you put the nut back on loosely so the flywheel doesn't fly off and fall on your toes. I'm assuming you ordered the flywheel stop? The angle iron works better because it will also keep the engine from rotating when you try to break the large nut loose. Once you get the RA video, you will see how easy it is.
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I ordered the geared bracket and socket from mazdatrix... I went to sears and looked at how much their stuff was and it was a bit cheaper to get the SST from mazdatrix.
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Originally Posted by t-von
Dude go to Sears and buy a 2 1/8" 3/4" drive socket. 3/4" drive ratchet. Find a scrap piece of angle iron and drill two holes in it to match two of the holes for the clutch bolts on the flywheel. Break the nut loose and use a pry bar behind the flywheel and hammer near the center of the flywheel to pop the flywheel off. Make sure you put the nut back on loosely so the flywheel doesn't fly off and fall on your toes. I'm assuming you ordered the flywheel stop? The angle iron works better because it will also keep the engine from rotating when you try to break the large nut loose. Once you get the RA video, you will see how easy it is.
Good try, even better borrow someones pancake compressor and air gun and save yourself some money.
John
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New Pictures
Well, I got the flywheel stop and wrench in finally after a wrong address fiasco... anyways, here's some new pics of the carbon buildup and whatnot.
I was looking at the box of engine parts and saw a plate that said the engine was a mazda reman. so I really have no idea how many miles were on the engine when I started this project.
As you can see on the rotors, there is quite a bit of carbon, so I'm glad I did it. Also, on the left housing, I had quasi cleaned the inside with some carb cleaner. That's why it doesn't look as bad as the other one.
As for now, I have one of the rotors and rotor parts soaking in a bin of carb cleaner until the morning. Tomorrow, I'll try to remember to take a pic of a clean vs. dirty before I drop the rear rotor in for a good soak.
By the way, the Rotary Aviation engine overhaul video is freakin' awsome. Although I did realize if I want to do this right, I have to get a bunch of inspection tools. They aren't cheap...
I was looking at the box of engine parts and saw a plate that said the engine was a mazda reman. so I really have no idea how many miles were on the engine when I started this project.
As you can see on the rotors, there is quite a bit of carbon, so I'm glad I did it. Also, on the left housing, I had quasi cleaned the inside with some carb cleaner. That's why it doesn't look as bad as the other one.
As for now, I have one of the rotors and rotor parts soaking in a bin of carb cleaner until the morning. Tomorrow, I'll try to remember to take a pic of a clean vs. dirty before I drop the rear rotor in for a good soak.
By the way, the Rotary Aviation engine overhaul video is freakin' awsome. Although I did realize if I want to do this right, I have to get a bunch of inspection tools. They aren't cheap...
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Carb cleaner...
It's amazing how clean the rotor got after setting it in carb cleaner overnight.
Since I have the engine open... I'm thinking about porting it. Is this something someone can do on their own with some files and other misc tools or something that needs to be machined, exact and/or sent in to a specialty shop?
Since I have the engine open... I'm thinking about porting it. Is this something someone can do on their own with some files and other misc tools or something that needs to be machined, exact and/or sent in to a specialty shop?
#22
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Originally Posted by mdpalmer
Awesome, keep taking pictures!!!! So this is your first rotary rebuild? I'll do one one day
And here's another pic. I wanted to see what would happen if the rotor housings went through a wash cycle in the dishwasher... lol It didn't do much
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yeah the ra videos are awesome i just finished watching it yesterday. i was debating though wheter to build it myself or get it built because of those inspection tools. how much do you think all of the inspection tools are going to be around?
#24
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I checked out the local tool place and it's looking like it'll be around $200 for all the inspection tools. They didn't have individual telescoping guages, just a set with 7 of them and that was $100. I ought to try to find a business online with the tools and reprice it all. I have been a little busy with getting a house ready for resale and the progress has kind of halted on the engine. It's sitting on the workbench all cleaned and ready for inspection. Hopefully soon I'll be able to get back to the rebuild.