I used the manual from this site as a reference. It may be helpful to you also.
http://www.rx7city.com/93manual.htm

Here's what you'll need along with a compressor of course. A regular ratchet will work as well, but air tools help speed up the process.



I'd like to apologize for not having many pics of the axle removal process. It is however very straight forward, and anyone who knows lefty loosey/righty tighty should be fine.

You have to remove about six or 7 bolts to free the axle from the wheel hub and the brake caliper from the rotor. The abs sensor is another small(12mm?) bolt that must come out as well. Once everything is freed up you should be good to go on the axles.

All you have to do is get the pry bar in between the differential and the green end of the axles and give it a good shove. You can look at the side view pic of the diff for reference. The gaping hole is where one end of the axle goes and the other end goes through the wheel hub and rotor.




This is what your wheelwell will look like(hopefully less rust though!) once you are up to this point. If you notice, I put all the bolts back in there location while I await the delivery of my axles and other parts. Also, in the upper left hand corner you can see a black and white striped cable. That is the abs line.

 

This is the differential(what you'll be removing) as it looks from the back of the car to the front.


Side view:


This is where its is removed from(near your gas tank/ exhaust).

 

After you've drained the diff, removed the axles, and dropped the diff you will need to take these 8 (14mm?) bolts out to uncap it.


This is what you will see inside once you have removed the bolts and cap. Note: you may have to tap the cap with a hammer to break the seal.


Next, remove these 4(two on each side) 17mm(?) bolts.


Be sure to keep everything together and if need be mark which side the pieces were removed from to make your life easier later on.


Here's what it looks like with that stuff removed. You can see the shims which are out to the sides of the lsd. *Note* I took the bearings off of the lsd so they are not shown in the pics. I do have pics of the new bearings and when I get them pressed onto the TII unit I will post pics for reference.

These are the new uninstalled bearings to help you get a better idea:


They go on the stubby ends of the lsd. See the next pic.

Now you take your flathead screwdriver or small prybar insert into the hole where the axles once were and drive the shims out. Again, keep all the parts together so that you know which shim & bearing cap (whatever its called) belongs to what side. Once you have those 4 pieces out you can take out the lsd.


This is how that stuff fits together. The bearing would be attatched where I described(on the stubby cylinders that stick out of both sides of the lsd) and this goes over the bearing. Hopefully you get the idea. The exploded view diagram should help if you don't.

 

This is what the pumpkin looks like empty:


this is the stock torsen lsd out of the diff casing. The way its shown, the narrow end(or right side if you look at the previous pics) down.


You must now remove those 10 bolts shown above in order to remove the ring. *Note* You might want to do this with the lsd on its side for the slight chance that the ring may drop once the last bolt is removed and get chipped up as a result.


The ring may be a little stubborn, but some careful prying should do the trick if that is the case. Now that all the bolts are removed take the ring off of the lsd.



This is a brand new TII lsd with the small end down, and no ring attatched:


This is a side by side of the TII lsd with the ring installed and the old torsen lsd to the right of it:


Feel free to ask any questions or comments. I'm sure there are little things that I may have left out already.

 

Is the TII diff a plate diff??

 

Didn't you have to measure lash etc.?

 

holy rust batman.

 

I'm interested in knowing this as well. I had to measure lash when installing mine. Good pics though

 

Lash? I'm dumb! Please explain! I know on my diff if you grab the axle and rotate it, it will rotate about 1/2" either side.

 

Lash is basicly the amount of slop in between the ring gear and the primary gear coming from the drive shaft. If you have to much or too little it is bad and can cause binding and premature wear or even worse. You can adjust this by moving shims from one side to the other causeing the gears to get closer or farther apart. You will need a micrometer to test the amount of lash. And any new lsd should come with instuctions on how much lash it needs.

 

When my diff bushings arrive I will be changing the seals (see pic), diff bushings obviously and bolting everything back up with the new lsd. I will cover lash and such when I get to that point.

 

I didn't think the lash needed adjusted as long as the pinion gear was left untouched, just use the same shims?

 

Guess it would be a good time to upgrade the axles and final drive gear while you are at it.
Nice writeup!

 

No Update?

 

Back lash and carrier bearing pre-load will will have to be adjusted because you are changing the side to side clearance as the tII diff is probably not the same exact length as the stock torsion....PINION DEPTH is not going to be needing adjustment if you keep the same ring and pinion....the way you make sure your pinion depth is correct is by painting some lead paint or white lithium grease on the ring teeth, then rotate the gears while applying pressure(load) with a prybar to duplicate the load applied while driving, then check the wear pattern on the teeth...if its too high or too low, then you will have to remove the pinion and place the appropriate shim to increase or reduce pinion depth on the ring gear....then after that is done, you have to measure break away torque(i believe its 15newton meters) with a needle torque wrench and use a NEW crush collar when tightening down the pinion nut...then you do your carrier bearing preload to make sure your whole diff assembly isnt moving around inside the diff case, once that is setup, then you can measure your ring+pinion gear backlash..its 3-4 thousanths of an inch backlash and shim that appropriately and you have to keep your carrier bearing preload the same, so whatever backlash you remove from one side, you have to add that amount equally to the other side with the shims....notes, MAKE SURE YOU KEEP YOUR CARRIER BEARING CAPS MARKED WHICH SIDE AND UP AND DOWN THEY CAME OUT OF THE CASE, THEY ARE MACHINED TO THAT CASE TO FIT PROPERLY.
basically its time consuming if you have to do all the measurements correctly,or you will have a whining noise, vibrations and will burn up your ring and pinion gears or burn up the bearings inside.

 

Back from the dead. I'm doing the TII swap very soon and have been gathering as much information as I can. I'm planning to set the lash myself.

According to the 2nd and 3rd gen FSM's the FD LSD uses shims to adjust the backlash, while the TII differential uses rotating adjusters. So I'm a little unsure which method I will be using to adjust the backlash?? I'm sure it will become more apparent once I have both apart but I like to plan ahead. My thoughts are that it would use the FD shim method since the differential case doesn't appear that it would give access to the rotating adjusters. Anyone know?

Also the 3rd gen FSM makes no mention of adjusting the carrier bearing preload, the S4 manual does has a note about it, and from what I gather it uses the same adjusters as for the backlash. Is carrier bearing preload done in the FD just by torquing the bearing caps? Or is there some other method that the FSM doesn't mention? I read the carrier bearing preload is not as crucial as the pinion bearing preload (which won't be messed with here) because the carrier bearings are turning at 1/4 the speed and don't support any of the cars weight.

 

Round 2! This is great information, would be good to sticky it. I just got linked here from another thread.

To answer your question, you are right that carrier bearing preload is much less important than pinion bearing preload. Pinion bearing preload has to be checked any time you remove the pinion, and fitted with a new crush washer.

While I haven't seen the FD FSM, with shims the only way to adjust carrier bearing preload would be to increase the total shim width (making it tighter) while keeping lash in spec. I'm not sure it is important enough to worry about on the FD to have custom shims made or ordered, that would be up to the owner. On the FC, it's much easier as you said with the rotating adjusters, as you would just rotate each side evenly until the proper pre-load was met. Having said that, while working as a tech I never once adjusted carrier pre-load on any style of diff, and never had any problems. So, take it for what it's worth.

P.S. To measure carrier bearing pre-load, subtract the rotating pinion pre-load (not the braking torque) from the pre-load measured with the carrier torqued down, no axles in obviously.

 

So what if i'm putting in a used TII diff... Do I still need to set the backlash? This thread is GREAT info!! sticky time!!....well maybe after it's been organized a little bit..

 

Yes, all of these things will be off when the LSD is transfered to a different housing.

 

I forgot about this thread. Late last year I actually installed a used S4 turbo II diff in my Fd. As I was getting ready to remove the torsen, I started to spin the front pinion to see if there was any noticeable play with the pinion and ring gear. Theres wasn't ANY play so the back lash was perfect. It turned out that the torsen gears themselves were wearing out causing all the play in my drive shaft. Once the drive shaft turns the pinion, the pinion turns the ring, then the torsen gears engage to turn your wheel axles. All my play was in the torsens. So I installed the turbo II diff. I even just reinstalled the original shims and had zero play with the pinion and ring gear. Now I really do need to measure for back lash because my turbo II unit does need a larger shim in the housing. I could probably squeeze a filler gauge in between the housing and spacers. So I installed the unit anyways because I was curious to see if my drive shaft play would be eliminated. Well the turbo II clutch style LSD unit did the job. My driveshaft play is virtually nonexistent as now I don't have ANY thud in the rear when I'm on and off the gas. I wish I would have done this change years ago.

 

hmmm so you think I could get away with doing the same thing then as long as my diff has no play? It's my first time messing with setting the lash so if I could avoid it...i wouldn't mind it one bit hah.

 

I'm no expert but I believe so.

 

Just my two cents on this old thread:

I just installed a tomei 2 way with a couple friends and we had a couple bumps on the way

I used the old bearing. popped them out with two pry bars.

Measures the stock diff backlash 0.005

When putting in the new diff, had to seat the bearing fully flush to the diff.

when we first put the diff in, the backlash was 0.00000000000 and did not turn smoothly all the way around.

to adjust this, we swapped the shims to the other sides ( i labeled everything, i did not mix them up from the start) and the backlash after we switch shims and dropped the diff back in was 0.005

did not have to take the axle out completely, just detached the lower bolt and toe bolt and swing out the axle.

I put in new superbro bushing and did not use a press. it was a two man job and we left the mount on the pumpkin. we but the bushing on the floor greased up and put the diff on it and stepped on the hole and it popped right in. no press needed. no tears.

fun times.

 

This thread is as old as hell, but anyway we can get the forum to host the pictures??