DiD I BLOW MY ENGINE?!
02-28-10 | 01:35 PM
#26
03-01-10 | 06:54 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 762
Likes: 22
From: los angeles
If the runs even if its bad. But won't rev past 3k. It might just be the secondary injectors aren't firing. Though the act of your secondaries failing, may have caused your motor to blow which is why it idles bad now. Check your fuel pressure maybe. Compression test should be the first test you do though and then you can continue the diagnosis.
When I hardcore blew my motor, it barely idled but the more RPM it had, the smoother it would drive. I drove it from Mosport on the highway at 5-6k RPM because it had no power under that even for highway cruising for 30 minutes.
thewird
When I hardcore blew my motor, it barely idled but the more RPM it had, the smoother it would drive. I drove it from Mosport on the highway at 5-6k RPM because it had no power under that even for highway cruising for 30 minutes.
thewird
SEEMS TO BE stuck open fuel injectors , at idle it smell really really lot of gas no smoke but whitish grey in exhaust ...
03-01-10 | 07:02 PM
#28
"Mellow Yellow"
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 275
Likes: 0
From: Alberta, Canada
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that your compression test was useless. You need numbers. Even if you've listen to 500 good motors and 500 blown motors, it can be hard to tell what is good compression and what isn't. You need to use a compression tester (even a cheap one).
03-01-10 | 10:23 PM
#29
You do need to use a compression gage as has been recommended. That will tell you a lot.
03-03-10 | 03:25 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 762
Likes: 22
From: los angeles
what should i see at my gas cap?! AND YES IT SMELL FUEL AS HELL...when idle...
I ve forgot to mention that when problem arrived the fuel tank was pretty low, now orange light is lighting...
no compression in rotor 1 , flooded OR APEX SEALS ARE REALLY SHOT?
I ve forgot to mention that when problem arrived the fuel tank was pretty low, now orange light is lighting...
no compression in rotor 1 , flooded OR APEX SEALS ARE REALLY SHOT?
03-03-10 | 05:02 PM
#37
If you get no compression in the front rotor your engine is blown. The "at idle car smell fuel as hell" picture was just someone having fun with your english phrasing - the gas cap is not your problem. We know you're from Germany though so imperfect english is expected.
Where in the los angeles area are you planning on moving? I live in Pasadena.
Where in the los angeles area are you planning on moving? I live in Pasadena.
03-03-10 | 05:33 PM
#38
was driving on the german highway at wot 160 MPH, suddenly no more power and a big smoke through the exhaust.
now the car idle poorly but not die, and a rough low power untill 3200 rpm but no more power after just less rough
now the car idle poorly but not die, and a rough low power untill 3200 rpm but no more power after just less rough
front rotor 0 psi ?!!!
rear rotor 71 psi
rear rotor 71 psi
Ok end thread. You blew your engine, now rebuild it and make it better and learn more about the car.
03-03-10 | 05:48 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 762
Likes: 22
From: los angeles
If you get no compression in the front rotor your engine is blown. The "at idle car smell fuel as hell" picture was just someone having fun with your english phrasing - the gas cap is not your problem. We know you're from Germany though so imperfect english is expected.
Where in the los angeles area are you planning on moving? I live in Pasadena.
Where in the los angeles area are you planning on moving? I live in Pasadena.
ok here is my theory
when my car suddenly go slower i haven't notice any pop or annoying exhaust/engine sound
I had drive for time with boost like 0.95 / 0.97 or 1.05 peak ( pfc commander value) with no problem in 6500/ 7300 RPM RANGE . always for a short period between 2nd and 3rd gear or 3rd and 4 rd gear with injector duty in 90 % range ( according to power fc hand controller) in short period too
But it was the first time i had drive so fast for a long period so injector had(could) stilled open in 93% range.
So ,one or two secondary injectors could possibly be stuck open...
It will result in an unburned fuel condition causing engine to run roughly ( on only one rotor)
considering this eventually stuck secondary injector and unburned fuel it will smell
a lot of gas at idle
now with all this excess fuel in front rotor housing washing away the oil which forms the actual seal between the rotor chambers, there is no compression.
I was thinking trying with new other secondary injectors to see if my theory works... (1300 cc to stay in lower injector duty)
and try another test compression at normal temperature engine previous one was on cold start engine, apparently a cold engine will always produce a LOWER reading than a warm one.
if not , i will go for a rebuilt or new motor...
advice are welcome
sorry for my english ...
03-03-10 | 05:55 PM
#40
Unfortunately your theory is not going to be correct. Your injectors are most likely fine. The last time you ran your car up to 160 mph it just got hot enough to have some nasty detonation and took out one or more of your apex seals on the front rotor. Just because you got away with it before doesn't mean that something changed when it blew - your luck just ran out. Now it's time for a rebuild.
Your car smells so strongly of gas now because the front rotor isn't running. It's not generating any compression so it's not able to burn most of the gas that's running through it and it's just all being pumped out the tailpipe. Once again, rebuild time. Good luck!
Your car smells so strongly of gas now because the front rotor isn't running. It's not generating any compression so it's not able to burn most of the gas that's running through it and it's just all being pumped out the tailpipe. Once again, rebuild time. Good luck!
03-03-10 | 06:01 PM
#41
Racecar - Formula 2000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,897
Likes: 297
From: Bath, OH
03-03-10 | 06:36 PM
#42
03-03-10 | 06:57 PM
#43
Racecar - Formula 2000
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 3,897
Likes: 297
From: Bath, OH
). I just condensed it and made it (hopefully) impossible for him to not understand.
03-03-10 | 10:13 PM
#44
03-03-10 | 11:59 PM
#45
GLWRB (good luck with rebuild) 
03-04-10 | 12:23 AM
#46
03-05-10 | 03:30 AM
#48
I think this guy and I blew our motors on the same day, in germany, and on the autobahn.
Only difference for me is I didn't even have my foot on the gas I was slowing down...
Well I mean I didn't blow mine because I am still in denial. haha!
Only difference for me is I didn't even have my foot on the gas I was slowing down...
Well I mean I didn't blow mine because I am still in denial. haha!
03-05-10 | 09:30 AM
#49
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
You guys have bad timing..... I was visiting the old town I used to live in (Geilenkirchen) last May for about 10 days. If you would've blown up then I may have been able to help you out while I was on vacation 
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 03-10-10 at 06:30 PM.
03-10-10 | 05:20 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 762
Likes: 22
From: los angeles
ok i've received my new engine,
should i drive with oem cpu until i get a tune for my power fc fd3s4 (oem cpu is too lean for my actual mods?)
or could I drive with my power fc fd3s4 all data reinitialised at low boost until i tune it...
( pfc fd3s4 is enough rich for my actual mods at low boost?)
I'have a hks evc v boost controller too ...
here are my actual mods
cheap bastard air box/K&N with 99' air duct/ ARC RACE SMIC/ ELABTRONIC INTELLIGENT INTERCOOLER WATER SPRAY / EFINI Y PIPE/HKS TWIN POWER /NGK Power Cable Racing Wire 0.9k Ohms/m) / HKS DOWNPIPE/SARD HIGH FLOW CATALYSER/BLITZ NUR SPEC R/ HKS EVC V BOOST CONTROLLER/SUPRA FUEL PUMP/stock injectors/APEXI POWER FC FD3S4 BASE MAP /STOCK TWINS WITH PORTED WASTEGATE
thansks for advice, i'm searching for safe advice since i wouldn't blown my engine again.
should i drive with oem cpu until i get a tune for my power fc fd3s4 (oem cpu is too lean for my actual mods?)
or could I drive with my power fc fd3s4 all data reinitialised at low boost until i tune it...
( pfc fd3s4 is enough rich for my actual mods at low boost?)
I'have a hks evc v boost controller too ...
here are my actual mods
cheap bastard air box/K&N with 99' air duct/ ARC RACE SMIC/ ELABTRONIC INTELLIGENT INTERCOOLER WATER SPRAY / EFINI Y PIPE/HKS TWIN POWER /NGK Power Cable Racing Wire 0.9k Ohms/m) / HKS DOWNPIPE/SARD HIGH FLOW CATALYSER/BLITZ NUR SPEC R/ HKS EVC V BOOST CONTROLLER/SUPRA FUEL PUMP/stock injectors/APEXI POWER FC FD3S4 BASE MAP /STOCK TWINS WITH PORTED WASTEGATE
thansks for advice, i'm searching for safe advice since i wouldn't blown my engine again.