Heath

iTrader: (11)

It started, however after 15 or so minutes of running it sputtered and died. It didn't want to start again after that. My garage was filled with atf smoke as anticipated. There was a lot of smoke coming from the turbos/precat area. I assume that must be due to an exhaust leak. If the precat is somewhat clogged that could be contributing as well. It must not be too badly clogged because the vast majority of the smoke was indeed exiting the rear.
Anyone know why it would have died? Seemed fine for the time it was running. I feel certain it's simply time for a new engine. Probably new lots of things

Heath

iTrader: (11)

After 30 minutes or so it started up again. Then again 10 minutes later. What's going on with this thing? Jeesh!

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it's time to get that compression test.

DK

iTrader: (5)

Word.

Heath, I've been stuck at my parent's house since Christmas with a phatom brake problem in my van ... have you talked to Chris about this whole thing? I'm surprised he didn't mention that I was here because I would've helped! I guess I'm just out of the riceboy loop.

Heath

iTrader: (11)

Yep, the compression tester should arrive on Thurs. I wish the rotary specific testers weren't around $1500.

DK--Chris hasn't mentioned your name in many months. I had no idea you were in the area. Is being left out of the riceboy loop a bad thing?
Haha, shoot me an email if you get bored.
morganf1@aol.com

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

There isn't a Mazda dealership around you can tow it to for the test? Most insurances will pay for the tow to the dealership, you just have to pay for the tow back home.

Qball

replace the knock sensor. same exact symptoms on my car. changed the plugs.. the wires..even the coils. nothing. constant flooding.

a damaged knock sensor floods the engine and retards timing so much its difficult to start the car and keep it idling.

after i changed the sensor everything worked. i hope this is the solution to your problem.

btw... a damaged knock sensor is code 5.

Asphyxia02

ok, i've tried everything except the atf and still no start. i've heard that a few miles after usin atf most peoples engines blew so i'm a little hesitant with using it. it has fuel and spark and the compression sounds regular enough when cranking without the plugs. any other suggestions?

Heath

iTrader: (11)

Hey buddy, you highjacking my thread?

I have never heard of anyones engine blowing after the atf treatment. I have done it to three or four cars now with no problems. I think it really helped bring back some compression to my friends 93r1. It starts every time now, although the compression is still low. I got readings from 74-79psi on both rotors. Poor little car.
Do this if you know the car is flooded:
1. Remove all four plugs
2. Pull out the fuel pump relay. I actually pulled out the big green one and the little green fuse. I don't know if both are necessary but it certainly didn't hurt anything.
3.Make sure the battery has a good charge and turn over the engine for 10-15 secs. while holding the gas pedal to the floor. Wait 20 minutees then repeat. Do this 5-6 times. You should see lots of fuel vapor coming out.
4.After the 5th or 6th time I used a piece of silicon hose and a small funnel and poured some atf in to both small nipples on the left of the upper intake manifold (looking at it from the front.) I then poured some in the leading plug holes. I cranked the engine for just a few secs. and let it sit for two days.
5.After 2 days turn the engine over for a couple of seconds, install the spark plugs, connect the wires and relay/fuse.
6.Hold the gas pedal to the floor (as you should have been ever time you were cranking it) and fire it up!

The r1 started almost immediately. Be sure to play with the throttle if necessary. Don't let it stall. Of course if will indeed smoke like hell. The car even expelled nasty black muck from the catback. Maybe it was dissolved carbon with atf, I don't know.
Shoot me an email at morganf1@aol.com if you have any questions about the procedure!

....and oh yeah, definately do a compression test.

kieron

Just to add my bits worth.
Just watching what comes from the plug ports suggests that at WOT no fuel is passing through. I waited till there was no vapour present before adding oil to the cylinders (about 20 sec. in my case). I used 2 stroke oil as that's what I had available and added it via a small diameter piece of tubing. Worked well with little mess.
I found it important to build compression from the oil for mine to start.

My car has 50,000 on the clock and the oil is pretty black. Is that a sure sign that compression is low?