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DaleClark's guide to Tools and your FD

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Old 06-06-10 | 09:09 AM
  #26  
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nice write up, good knowledge of what actually works on these cars and what really isn't needed. thanks for the information.
Old 06-06-10 | 10:50 AM
  #27  
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+1 for a set of GearWrench ratching wrenchs. I love mine. But I also love my old-school MAC open-end wrench set. Unlike almost all the others that are two-sided, the MAC open ends are 4-sided...almost like a line-wrench. They don't tend to slip and round heads off.

Speaking of line-wrenchs, you need at least a 10mm line wrench for brake lines. DON'T try it with a standard wrench.

I always seem to be reaching for my Harbor-Frieght plastic dead-blow hammer.

One exception to only getting metric might be the socket for the FW nut. Much easier to find it in SAE.
Old 06-06-10 | 11:10 AM
  #28  
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Out of all the tools I own, I probably use my metric GearWrench ratcheting swivel-head wrenches the most of anything.

I also use a set of offset box end metric wrenches which are great for reaching odd spots around parts, etc.
Old 06-06-10 | 11:53 AM
  #29  
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Actually it would be still good to keep and have the non-ratcheting ones, sometimes the ratcheting ones are a bit too big to fit in tight locations. The box ends of a non-ratcheting one is quite smaller to a ratcheting ones.

I would love to have a set of air tools, but the noise of the compressor will disturb my neighbors.
Old 06-06-10 | 12:22 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by rlee429
I would love to have a set of air tools, but the noise of the compressor will disturb my neighbors.
If noise is an issue for you, do not choose the oil-less compressors. Generally speaking they are much louder than the oil lubed compressors.

David
Old 06-06-10 | 02:28 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Sgtblue

...
Speaking of line-wrenchs, you need at least a 10mm line wrench for brake lines. DON'T try it with a standard wrench.

...
One exception to only getting metric might be the socket for the FW nut. Much easier to find it in SAE.
I agree on the line wrench, forgot that one. It's a must if you do anything with brake lines. I think they're also called a flare wrench. The 10mm one is the main one you need, I'm trying to think if there's any other sizes on the car.

Flywheel socket! Forgot that one. A 2 1/8" socket fits perfect. Sears has one that's 3/4" drive, get it and a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter. I've been using that exact setup for 10+ years now on MANY flywheel nuts, using impact and regular wrenches, and it's held up great. Fits perfect and always works.

Dale
Old 06-06-10 | 02:42 PM
  #32  
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OH Nice write up Dale

I have to agree w/that. I have tools galore and you covered to popular ones thats for sure. I like how you added the long handle needle nose (straight/45/90) because I think I used my 45's countless times. Some nice ratcheting Gearwrenches are pretty handy too. I also like to have a dedicated set of hose cutters used for vacum and soft hoses only for those precise hose cuts. I like to have a 3/8 and 1/2 drive torque wrench although I imagine both are not necessary if on a tool budget. I fabricated a rolling "crash cart" for my big rebuild project last winter. 2' x 4' just high enough to clear the nose of the car. I know all the tools I need by heart so I fill up the crash cart and go to it.

Thanx for your help earlier w/my idle questions. My car is probably only weeks away from dyno-tuning at The RX7 Store. I cant wait.

Thanx again

KD93R1
Old 06-06-10 | 02:48 PM
  #33  
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Hey Dale. Just a thought. Sometimes, a tool will do something it wasn't made to do. Like a regular screwdriver. It'll remove a screw, or can be used to pry. With that in mind...

Instead of using the ramps for the car, we use them for us. After the car is up on stands, we put the ramps beside the front tires, and use them as a step. It's just the right height to let you get over in the bay to get **** done.

I wouldn't put my car on these things, but they work perfectly as a step for us.
Old 06-06-10 | 06:46 PM
  #34  
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Another must tool is a BLOCK OF WOOD
Metric or SAE?
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Old 06-06-10 | 11:21 PM
  #35  
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Dale, you gotta put all this in print man!!!

Seriously, your're like Corky Bell for rotaries!
Old 06-07-10 | 08:40 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wstrohm
"Another must tool is a BLOCK OF WOOD"
Metric or SAE?
^
MAZDA makes their own. Really, it's special Pine from Mt. Fuji, so I'm thinking Metric....
Old 06-07-10 | 04:25 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by cpnneeda
Hey Dale. Just a thought. Sometimes, a tool will do something it wasn't made to do. Like a regular screwdriver. It'll remove a screw, or can be used to pry. With that in mind...

Instead of using the ramps for the car, we use them for us. After the car is up on stands, we put the ramps beside the front tires, and use them as a step. It's just the right height to let you get over in the bay to get **** done.

I wouldn't put my car on these things, but they work perfectly as a step for us.
Hahaha!

That's funny considering I'm 6'6" . I don't think I've needed a booster step for much of anything .

Dale
Old 06-07-10 | 06:10 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
Hahaha!

That's funny considering I'm 6'6" . I don't think I've needed a booster step for much of anything .

Dale
You're two inches taller than me! Life inside and outside of an FD must suck worse for you My back kills me when I work on the engine bay for a while even when the car is high on jackstands. Have you been inside your FD with a helmet? Mine is a touring so headroom is pretty much nonexistent for me.

Back on topic...

I have a Bucket Boss tool roll that I use instead of my tool box. It's great for carrying around a basic set of tools with you and it fits in more places than a small tool box. I havent bought one for my FD yet but I have one with basic tools to work on my Bimmer and I like it more than a tool box. It especially comes in handy when you have to make a trip to the junkyard and you dont want to lug around your heavy/cumbersome tool box.

These are not my pictures but mine is very similar to it:





Another awesome inexpensive tool to have is a coolant funnel to fill and bleed the cooling system. It's not something thats used very often but it's one of the best things I've bought for working on my car.

Old 06-07-10 | 07:47 PM
  #39  
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Dirty D,

I wouldn't be so quick and absolute in saying you don't need any 11mm stuff, sockets in particular. T-bolt clamps, which I see on at least 50% of the cars that come in my shop, use an 11mm deep socket.

Also, the same can be said for the 1/2 deep socket for v-band clamps on a ton of the single Turbo down pipes. And 7/8 for o2 sensors.


-J
Old 06-07-10 | 11:46 PM
  #40  
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my blue point 17.4? volt cordless 3/8" impact gun is my favorite... best investment ive ever spent tool wise.

also wratching wrenches are a MUST in my book, it just makes life that much easier...

also double flare wrench for brake lines/clutch

anddddddd nitrate gloves
Old 06-07-10 | 11:48 PM
  #41  
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^^Beat me to the 11 mil for the V-band clamps.

This thread is chock full o good info, warms mah Heart

N'awlens Johnny, when you coming to NYC to cuddle ?
Old 06-07-10 | 11:56 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
Actually, you just have to have them long enough to insert those hose clamps in the trash. If I'm working on a stockish car, those get replaced with regular worm drive clamps.
Worm gear clamps can loosen over time. Mazduh did this one right I believe, even though the pinch type clams can be a pita, they always work.
Old 06-08-10 | 12:10 AM
  #43  
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im with some of the others, my 18volt makita impact is a god send, my mazda tech buddy calls those things the money makers.
Old 06-08-10 | 01:03 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
^^Beat me to the 11 mil for the V-band clamps.

This thread is chock full o good info, warms mah Heart

N'awlens Johnny, when you coming to NYC to cuddle ?
As soon as you're finally ready for a commitment and then buy me a plane ticket!

-J
Old 06-08-10 | 02:37 AM
  #45  
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what about brakes and compressing calipers? I have this tool:

which I have used and it alone does not compress very well.

I bought this set:



When I did my mazda 3 and it took 45 min total. Has anyone used this on the FD?
Old 06-08-10 | 03:14 AM
  #46  
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Great write up Dale!
Old 06-08-10 | 08:02 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
Flywheel socket! Forgot that one. A 2 1/8" socket fits perfect. Sears has one that's 3/4" drive, get it and a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter. I've been using that exact setup for 10+ years now on MANY flywheel nuts, using impact and regular wrenches, and it's held up great. Fits perfect and always works.

Dale
Special tools- reactor for ecentric shaft torques.








Special fixture for grinding sideseals.







Special tool uesd to scribe side seal traces.



Barry
Old 06-10-10 | 12:22 AM
  #48  
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super helpful info, sub'd
Old 12-01-21 | 01:51 AM
  #49  
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Did anyone mention hose puller pliers. Harbor freight sells a kit with 3 different sizes. You grab the hose with the rounded pliers and rotate the hose a tiny bit to break it loose. I like to put it against the end of the hose to push it off.

Awesome write up Dale.

6'6"... Damn Bro.
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Old 12-01-21 | 10:39 AM
  #50  
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I'm a huge fan of hose pliers. They are a must-have in my opinion, I don't know if it's in the thread elsewhere but I use mine frequently. They also work really well for removing exhaust hangers.

Dale
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