will flushing my coolant which i've come to fear may be the original coolant in my car (coming up on 38.5k miles now) make a difference in my running temps etc? i know it needs to be done, but why is it that flushing is so important? i know its a stupid question that i should know the answer too... but please, someone help. another question, what is the funny looking "quasi" radiator screen thats on over my stock radiator? can i take that off with no ill effects... could that have a positive effect? what about removing the little black plastic sides since my license plate blocks like 50% of the radiator opening?

i put it in the third gen section since its about my FD but where ever it goes, it goes

 

The major issue as I understand it for coolant flushing is to retain the ability for the "coolant" portion (i.e. the green stuff) of the mix to allow for continued lubrication of the water pump. Over time, this breaks down, which can lead to premature failure of the pump (already a pretty weak part of or system!). Next, over time, the heat cycling of the system will boil out the various minerals that are in the water. These can aggregate as solids, which can clog all kinds of stuff, like the heater core, the radiator, turbo coolant passages (our stock turbos are coolant cooled as well as oil), radiator caps, throttle body passages, and so forth. Frequent replacement of the coolant can prevent these kinds of buildup. Use of distilled water helps this too. Included in buildup can be breakdown products of the coolant as well (I've seen it in my old valiant).

So change your coolant. A proper flush that is safe for our car is to empty the radiator AND the engine block. The block plug is on the drivers side of the engine, toward the bottom, on the middle "plate" of the engine. If you search, there are some pics of the location. Once you drain the coolant, replace the plug, plug the radiator, and fill the system slowly with just water (doesn't matter if it's distilled). Fill it as best you can, then start and run the engine for around 5 minutes at idle. Shut off, let it cool completely. Drain the radiator and engine completely, and refill with water again. Run and drain it. Finally, fill the system with distilled water and coolant in whatever mixture you feel comfortable with, from 50/50 to 80/20 (water/coolant). Remember, the more coolant you have in the mix, the lower the freezing point. For you, I think a year round good mix would be 60/40 to protect in the winter.

It's best to replace the coolant every year, no more than two years, even if you don't drive that much. Simple metal discontinuity will create galvanic current that can cause deposits to form even when you aren't running the engine.

That's all I know about it. I'm probably wrong, but not too much

 

the rad and related components..to include hoses..
will deteriorate if coolant is not changed periodically...
cooling ability will decrease as your passages cruds with contaminants...
not quite sure on the screen..
only items im aware of stock in close proximity of the rad are the fans and condenser..
so doubtin that removal of the exisiting screen will have any adverse effects..
as far as the plastic trims... ive removed them on one of my fds but never saw any difference in temps...
i gather its function is to direct and guide the air flow to the rad..

 

hmm... looks like i need to schedule a flush thanks guys. the screen i'm talking about is actually on the front of the car... forward and below the radiator. i haven't put my aftermarket one on yet because i just haven't been able to find the time.

 

That would be your a/c condenser. Don't you have an FSM?

Sure, as long as you don't count losing the A/C as an ill effect.

Very bad idea. Don't make more paths for air to escape around the radiator. Remove the front license plate. None of us run one in Cali, even though it's illegal.

 

FSM, not i don't yet. i just got the car in January... i didn't realize that's what that was. not sure i'm willing to attempt the running without a license plate thing yet though... little nervous about that one. have to think about it.

 

maybe i can find a way to mount it on the side where i don't have an oil cooler will look ugly, but be legal and still give me a clear radiator path. got my fan fixed.... but now my car goes from about 93C to 102C... likes to hold at 101C for a while then around 93-95C for a while then goes back up... what gives? i know i need a full flush and all, but this stupid little commander handset is causing more paranoia than good i fear.

 

Man, remove the plate. I'm sure, at most, it's a fix-it ticket in Maryland. Just keep it around if you get a ticket so you can get it signed off. The air opening on these cars is so small as it is, don't make it worse. Plus, it's ugly.

There is no excuse to not have a FSM. Download it from www.iluvmyrx7.com or one of the other sites that host it.

 

i have downloaded it already... just not had the time to look over it completely (i know... gasp!). i'm trying to figure out what the penalty is in MD. can't find the law anywhere on-line. does it actually make a difference in temps though if its there or not? have heard mixed reviews on the subject.

 

Pugg, I think leaving the plate on shouldn't have much effect. Having it there would effect the rate of flow if the flow rate were very high.

Because the radiator and condenser fins are so tight, my theory is that the flow is slow enough that the pressure differential is what is critical. The license plate won't reduce frontal pressure.

Sealing up loose openings between the bumper and the front of the radiator is especially important since leaks can drastically reduce this pressure.

 

This would seem to run contrary to many people experience on the track. The bigger that opening is, the more pressure you will build up in front of the radiator (think funnel) and thus the more air you will get through

Easy enough to test if you have a real H2O gauge in the car.

This is correct. Mark O'Dell commented on this fact when he was running in One Lap of America and was having overheating problems. Sealing the area around the sides of the radiator to prevent air leaks will reduce the temps.

-bill

 

pugg, look at the front of both my cars. front plates are gay and ruin the look of cars. I'll take the non-moving violation ticket should it come my way. I'm going on 3 years now. Just don't drive like a nut. And yes, i even got pulled over and issued a ticket once outside DC, he asked where the plate was. I pulled it out from under the seat and told him I bought the car while in FL, they don't require plates and there is no hook up. (Grand Ams have a depression cover with "PONTIAC" in it that can hide the attachment area )

*knocks on wood*

 

Not having the front plate was $50 a few years ago. It probably hasn't changed.

 

if you look at my avatar you will notice that my front license plate (as it was when i bought it and didn't know any better) is located directly over the radiator opening blocking an area about 75% of the opening's size (with the little black deflectors on the sides) meaning that putting it on the right way so it sits up out of the inlet's way will actually make a pretty good difference... changed it today, will be on the highway in the heat this afternoon... will let ya'll know how that goes. i'm stupid give me a break

could i just put some "walls" made of plastic on the sides of the rad to create a nice little duct?

what can i do to decrease my "sitting at a red light" water temps... have seen:

1. synthetic oil (don't understand)
2. vented hood (makes sense)
3. bigger better oil cooler (makes sense)
4. Evan's coolant
5. 60-40 water-coolant mix
6. going single.

anything else? can't afford all of these right now though... will be trying the synthetic next. the car isn't overheating, just getting hotter than i, in my paranoia (as runberg would call it) would like. 102C isn't bad i know, but still.

 

Some people say watter wetter is another way to lower temps but I have heard they damage the water seals. In my opinion neither opinion is proven.
cvs

 

I have been running water wetter for the past couple years, without any ill effects. (...crosses fingers)

Matthew Walsh

 

Probably BEST way to control temps for light sitting are working gauge (did you know you can linearize the stocker and it will actually MEAN something?) and fan mod. Never an overheat again...

 

i have my fans programmed (pretty sure he set them) via my PFC. my temp gauge is my PFC so that's not an issue anymore.

stupid though, i moved my license plate to the correct place and i was at least 5-10C lower temps highway and traffic... i feel like a dumba$$

 

i have my fans programmed (pretty sure he set them) via my PFC. my temp gauge is my PFC so that's not an issue anymore.

stupid though, i moved my license plate to the correct place and i was at least 5-10C lower temps highway and traffic... i feel like a dumba$$