confused about oil
10-07-08, 03:46 PM
#27
Rotary Enthusiast
i use shell super helix 15w-40.
the only reason for this is a reputable performance shop down here in nz uses this when they service rotarys (iv never taken my car to them as i do these things myself but the previous owner used these guys and thats the oil they used says the reciepts) the previous owner also gave me a bottle of this oil and a couple of oil filters when i bought the car so have kept using it since...
why does no one seem to use this weight oil? is it too heavy?
what do you guys think about shell helix 15w-40? anyone else use / used it?
i dont track my car and with summer approaching temps can range from 10degree celcius to 30 degrees in the same day.
the only reason for this is a reputable performance shop down here in nz uses this when they service rotarys (iv never taken my car to them as i do these things myself but the previous owner used these guys and thats the oil they used says the reciepts) the previous owner also gave me a bottle of this oil and a couple of oil filters when i bought the car so have kept using it since...
why does no one seem to use this weight oil? is it too heavy?
what do you guys think about shell helix 15w-40? anyone else use / used it?
i dont track my car and with summer approaching temps can range from 10degree celcius to 30 degrees in the same day.
10-07-08, 05:21 PM
#28
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10-07-08, 05:32 PM
#29
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The most sensible conclusion that can be reached with this amount of data is that it simply does not matter what oil you put in your car.
The manual devotes 1/2 page to the topic, which is about all the space required. Depending on your local temperatures, pick an oil with the appropriate viscosity from the manual and you are good to go. Everything else is noise.
The manual devotes 1/2 page to the topic, which is about all the space required. Depending on your local temperatures, pick an oil with the appropriate viscosity from the manual and you are good to go. Everything else is noise.
Things have changed in the last 2 years. Google zddp and read about what is happening to our oil.
Chevron Delo-400 and any other "heavy duty" or "diesel" should be ok.
10-07-08, 06:01 PM
#30
there should be a sticky about what to use under what conditions , temperatures , with a poll of people voting for what they use
this is an important topic with partial answers scattered in thousand of threads with no real conclusion :
some people use synthetic mobil 1 5-30
some use 10 30
some use GTX 20 -50
some use 10-30
some use 10-40
some use gt 5-30
some use royal purple .. of different viiscosity
some use valboline
some use motul
some use amsoil
some use rotella
some use pensoil
some use additives in combination with all thse
and these are all people with the same god damn car / engine
.... y so much variation
this is an important topic with partial answers scattered in thousand of threads with no real conclusion :
some people use synthetic mobil 1 5-30
some use 10 30
some use GTX 20 -50
some use 10-30
some use 10-40
some use gt 5-30
some use royal purple .. of different viiscosity
some use valboline
some use motul
some use amsoil
some use rotella
some use pensoil
some use additives in combination with all thse
and these are all people with the same god damn car / engine
.... y so much variation
.. y so much confusion ...?
surely because it is a topic that has been covered tenths of thousands of times ... but still there is a huge level of uncertainty
Some things are easy to decide upon based on technical merits. Some other things are not clearly divided based on technical merits alone. The fact, as near as anyone has ever provided evidence for, is that any good oil of appropriate viscosity that is changed regularly will provide enough lubricative protection to far outlast the weaker parts of the engine.
One could argue that because FD owners aren't doing UOAs, we're missing the answers that could be right in front of us. UOAs allow much closer technical comparisons of things that can't be seen directly. Maybe. But on the other hand, I just stated why the answer is of little value, so maybe nobody's missing anything.
Dave
10-07-08, 09:36 PM
#31
You can't tell these guys anything. They'll continue changing their exotic 20w-50 oil every 1000 miles while using 5 year old antifreeze and the stock oil injection and wonder why their engine blew a coolant seal and lost compression when they took such good care of it.
10-07-08, 10:04 PM
#32
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Because it doesn't matter all that much. It's not like our engines are dying of insufficient lubrication and metal/metal wear.
I'm not confused, I don't think many others are. If you're confused, use what the FSM recommends. 10w-30 mineral oil.
What makes certainty so important?
Some things are easy to decide upon based on technical merits. Some other things are not clearly divided based on technical merits alone. The fact, as near as anyone has ever provided evidence for, is that any good oil of appropriate viscosity that is changed regularly will provide enough lubricative protection to far outlast the weaker parts of the engine.
One could argue that because FD owners aren't doing UOAs, we're missing the answers that could be right in front of us. UOAs allow much closer technical comparisons of things that can't be seen directly. Maybe. But on the other hand, I just stated why the answer is of little value, so maybe nobody's missing anything.
Dave
I'm not confused, I don't think many others are. If you're confused, use what the FSM recommends. 10w-30 mineral oil.
What makes certainty so important?
Some things are easy to decide upon based on technical merits. Some other things are not clearly divided based on technical merits alone. The fact, as near as anyone has ever provided evidence for, is that any good oil of appropriate viscosity that is changed regularly will provide enough lubricative protection to far outlast the weaker parts of the engine.
One could argue that because FD owners aren't doing UOAs, we're missing the answers that could be right in front of us. UOAs allow much closer technical comparisons of things that can't be seen directly. Maybe. But on the other hand, I just stated why the answer is of little value, so maybe nobody's missing anything.
Dave
10-08-08, 01:42 AM
#33
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ok so .. i finally went with : Shell Rotella T 15w-40 , here is the fact sheet
http://kozmik.guelph.on.ca/gtdprojec...shell_T_US.pdf
now i am no longer stressed
if this oil can keep a hard working truck`s engine in top shape for 1000000 km`s .. then it`s good enough for my FD
http://kozmik.guelph.on.ca/gtdprojec...shell_T_US.pdf
now i am no longer stressed
if this oil can keep a hard working truck`s engine in top shape for 1000000 km`s .. then it`s good enough for my FD
10-08-08, 03:16 AM
#34
If you're going to winter drive your RX-7 I'd suggest a block heater as well. I thought of winter driving mine too BUT came to my senses. A Canadian winter and a FD3S doesnt seem 'reliable' 
My Efini RX-7 manual says to use either 10w30 or 10w40.
I wouldn't use 15w40 for the winter.
My Efini RX-7 manual says to use either 10w30 or 10w40.
I wouldn't use 15w40 for the winter.
10-08-08, 11:10 AM
#35
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I have another car for the canadian "Winter" and the FD will always be in my garage
but i will drive it when there is little snow and no snow during the winter
but i will drive it when there is little snow and no snow during the winter
10-08-08, 05:05 PM
#36
Here is a great read for you guys that are confused that i found recently.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052
Changed my views about using thicker oil thats for sure.
Should probably be stickied somewhere.
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136052
Changed my views about using thicker oil thats for sure.
Should probably be stickied somewhere.
10-08-08, 08:32 PM
#37
You can't tell these guys anything. They'll continue changing their exotic 20w-50 oil every 1000 miles while using 5 year old antifreeze and the stock oil injection and wonder why their engine blew a coolant seal and lost compression when they took such good care of it.
What aspects of the stock oil metering system do you believe are unreliable?
Dave
10-10-08, 12:03 AM
#38
Like you said... concerned owners should do some oil analysis. The blackstone lab kits are free, all one needs to do is send it in and pay for the testing, which is very reasonable if you're concerned about it in the first place.
As far as the oil metering goes, even if I were able to fit the RA 2 cycle oil adapter kit on my front cover with my stock twins, I'd still pre-mix in my gas. I believe it gives much more even lubrication and that the stock system injects an insufficient amount of oil.
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