Color sanding
#26
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you might try this before you go sanding stuff. https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...one-place.html
its a lot of work, but it does work
its a lot of work, but it does work
#27
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
I can't get that exact product here. I will try clay barring, polishing, and waxing this weekend just to see what it does on the parts of the paint that aren't ruined.
I could probably spring to get just the faded parts painted if the rest of the paint doesn't look too bad.
If I can move my car to a spot across my from my house (it's currently a 15-minute drive away), I might even consider painting it myself.
I found that enough Brilliant Black urethane paint and clear coat (including thinner and hardener) to do the car whole only costs about $200 (unless maybe the paint brand online I found is crap?).
That's a great bit cheaper than the $2000 I expect a professional paint job to cost.
I could probably spring to get just the faded parts painted if the rest of the paint doesn't look too bad.
If I can move my car to a spot across my from my house (it's currently a 15-minute drive away), I might even consider painting it myself.
I found that enough Brilliant Black urethane paint and clear coat (including thinner and hardener) to do the car whole only costs about $200 (unless maybe the paint brand online I found is crap?).
That's a great bit cheaper than the $2000 I expect a professional paint job to cost.
Last edited by Valkyrie; 04-06-23 at 07:29 PM.
#28
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Check out Paint Society on Youtube -
https://www.youtube.com/user/nexson
Lots of good info on paint work.
Mind you, you will need a few things to paint your car yourself -
- Good paint gun
- Good air compressor
- LOTS of masking materials
- A clean room of some kind to do the work in
Remember, paint is all in the prep, and it's a LOT of sanding and work to get to the point where you actually spray.
That's where Plastidip is nice, very little prep and you can literally go from car sitting looking like *** to dipped and done in an afternoon. And you can do it outside. For the situation you are in, if the sanding/buffing doesn't bear fruit that may be the easiest and most cost effective way to make the car look nice.
Dale
https://www.youtube.com/user/nexson
Lots of good info on paint work.
Mind you, you will need a few things to paint your car yourself -
- Good paint gun
- Good air compressor
- LOTS of masking materials
- A clean room of some kind to do the work in
Remember, paint is all in the prep, and it's a LOT of sanding and work to get to the point where you actually spray.
That's where Plastidip is nice, very little prep and you can literally go from car sitting looking like *** to dipped and done in an afternoon. And you can do it outside. For the situation you are in, if the sanding/buffing doesn't bear fruit that may be the easiest and most cost effective way to make the car look nice.
Dale
#29
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
Check out Paint Society on Youtube -
https://www.youtube.com/user/nexson
Lots of good info on paint work.
Mind you, you will need a few things to paint your car yourself -
- Good paint gun
- Good air compressor
- LOTS of masking materials
- A clean room of some kind to do the work in
Remember, paint is all in the prep, and it's a LOT of sanding and work to get to the point where you actually spray.
That's where Plastidip is nice, very little prep and you can literally go from car sitting looking like *** to dipped and done in an afternoon. And you can do it outside. For the situation you are in, if the sanding/buffing doesn't bear fruit that may be the easiest and most cost effective way to make the car look nice.
Dale
https://www.youtube.com/user/nexson
Lots of good info on paint work.
Mind you, you will need a few things to paint your car yourself -
- Good paint gun
- Good air compressor
- LOTS of masking materials
- A clean room of some kind to do the work in
Remember, paint is all in the prep, and it's a LOT of sanding and work to get to the point where you actually spray.
That's where Plastidip is nice, very little prep and you can literally go from car sitting looking like *** to dipped and done in an afternoon. And you can do it outside. For the situation you are in, if the sanding/buffing doesn't bear fruit that may be the easiest and most cost effective way to make the car look nice.
Dale
#30
Full Member
Hate to say it but it won't do anything for the problem he has. If it does, the fillers in the glaze will just mask the issue temporarily.
All the cars in the AG thread are SS paint. Most SS paints become hard and dry over the years. Megs #7 will "condition" SS paint due to the chemicals in it. Whenever I get an old SS car in my hands I take #7 and leave it on the paint over night before I buff it. Makes it much easier to work with.
All the cars in the AG thread are SS paint. Most SS paints become hard and dry over the years. Megs #7 will "condition" SS paint due to the chemicals in it. Whenever I get an old SS car in my hands I take #7 and leave it on the paint over night before I buff it. Makes it much easier to work with.
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Sgtblue (04-19-23)
#31
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
more pics would be better, but it looks like the bumper is pushed in on the side, which has made it curve more/bow a little. its not hard to fix
not sure about the hood, although you could always paint/wrap that. actually a good thing to practice wrapping might be the headlight lids
and paint the damn wiper arms!
not sure about the hood, although you could always paint/wrap that. actually a good thing to practice wrapping might be the headlight lids
and paint the damn wiper arms!
Do you think the lack of a bumper support is maybe why my bumper is a bit wonky?
I still can't figure out why the gaps between my bumper, hood, light covers, and fenders are so wonky...
#32
Rotorhead for life
iTrader: (4)
#33
Urban Combat Vet
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Originally Posted by Valkyrie;[url=tel:12555310
12555310[/url]]….
I also have a weird fitment issue between my bumper, hood, and light covers. Not sure what the issue is.
I also have a weird fitment issue between my bumper, hood, and light covers. Not sure what the issue is.
#34
Full Member
iTrader: (4)
For small spots like that I like to cut the sandpaper into 1"x1" squares. Then I use just the pads of my fingers to carefully wetsand. 1000 grit, 2000 grit, 3000 grit then I finish with Meguiar's 105 and 205 cutting compounds. The area is small enough that you can use the compound by hand and not even have to use a buffer.
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XxBoostinxX (04-19-23)
#35
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if you take those two pieces and push one in on the side, you're changing the shape of it and then the two won't match up
essentially the bumper being pushed in on one side makes it more of a circle than it should be, and you have a gap. pull the bumper straighter, and the gap will get better
#36
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
My first suspect would be that hood. Even the “quality” aftermarket panels usually required fitment tweaks with compromise. I can’t ID yours other than it’s one of the ‘Mazdaspeed-style’ or Mazdaspeed-like’ versions. And from the pins and stated issues, probably not top of the line.
It's almost exactly the same as this Stout Type-R hood https://store.shopping.yahoo.co.jp/k...T-FD3S-01.html, except that I only have one small rear vent hole instead of two. I didn't see any brand markings, though. So it might have been a copy.
I bought the hood and front bumper used from the same car (which I never saw), and I think the bumper was an AutoExe FD-02, but possibly a knockoff. as well.
I also bought the wheels from the car, and years later realized the offset was WAY too wide for an FD with stock fenders, but I sold them and got double what I paid for them. Haha.
#37
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
Thread Starter
so the gap is made by having the two pieces the same shape next to each other right? say no and i'll have more coffee and try again, lol
if you take those two pieces and push one in on the side, you're changing the shape of it and then the two won't match up
essentially the bumper being pushed in on one side makes it more of a circle than it should be, and you have a gap. pull the bumper straighter, and the gap will get better
if you take those two pieces and push one in on the side, you're changing the shape of it and then the two won't match up
essentially the bumper being pushed in on one side makes it more of a circle than it should be, and you have a gap. pull the bumper straighter, and the gap will get better
The problem with the light covers to hood / bumper / fender fitment is that the shape's aren't the same! So it's tight at spots and loose at others. At one point, my light covers were actually scraping the bumper.
I think part of it was because I bent the crap out of the fenders by sending the car into a foam crash pad...
I need to take the bumper off, anyway, so I guess I'll have a look at things then.
Of course, it's a 90s Mazda track car, so panel gaps are probably never going to be perfect...
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