If your clutch is working correctly. Just based off your descriptions, you said something seems to be stiff/stuck in the driveline and when you push the clutch, it stalls. You should try it in gear as well with clutch on and off.

More random thoughts, you said pushing the accelerator doesn't raise the RPM. Any restriction in the intake? (try disconnecting the elbow). Is the map sensor plugged in? Is it reading vacuum when the car is running?

thewird.

 

no restrictions in the intake. i'll leave the turbo inlets exposed for the next batch of testing. the map sensor is plugged in, the arrow on that filter is supposed to face the engine correct? the direction of airflow? how would i be able to tell if it was reading vacuum or not? just take off the vacuum line and feel the air?

 

Yes pointing at the engine is correct. Well the commander will should vacuum with the engine running labeled as boost.

thewird

 

Fans spinning by themselves with the key switched to on is a sign that the EGI (under the hood) fuse is pulled/blown. =O

Your car cranks like its not getting fuel. =O

I'm actually kind of excited to hear back from you.

 

Well the fans only come on by themselves with the stock ecu. I'll go ahead and replace the egi.

The engine is getting fuel. I tested the fuel system. Fuel pump is priming, fuel lines are correct, fuel pressure is correct, injectors are plugged correctly and spraying. I tried the de flooding it thinking that was my issue and fuel did spray out when the motor was cranked.

 

Then yes, the map is working fine. The boost reading on the Commander fluctuates upon cranking

 

The ECU is getting power so the EGI is fine. The way the car cranks actually sounds like timing is wrong. It sounds like its firing in the wrong direction.

Random thought, check to make sure your spark plug wires are hooked up correctly?

Random thought 2, im not 100% sure about this but I remember someone mentioning it at one point. Since your car was an automatic at some point, it still may have the automatic engine harness. I remember someone saying that you can mix up the injector plugs in this case because they are different for some reason? Try reversing them.

thewird

 

I will double check the spark plug wires. I was thinking the same thing about the injectors and verified they were correct. The plug with the white/beige tape on it is foward. But i will swap them around.

 

Just a wild card would check out the TPS sensor ..
Good luck

 

This is the incorrect way to hook up the fuel lines. The feed from the fuel pump should go into the FPD. This sounds exactly like an injector problem. You could also try starting it with one primary disconnected and see if it changes the way it sounds and that would clue you in on to if it's firing or not. Can you also clarify that the fuel pressure is at the correct pressure? I dont recall if you ever clarified what pressure unit it was in.

I had this exact same sound happen on a car I was working on and it ended up being bad primary injectors. It took me forever to diagnose the problem unfortunately.

Also might want to get the warning buzzer fixed, it's extremely hard to hear what is happening to the car with a siren running at full steam. Sounds like a low coolant buzzer.

 

I assume the power fc or scanner seen in the videos gives you the ability to view the computers input and out put sensors. I would look over the readings of the IAT, the CTS, map, tps and since you have seen it produce rpm thats good. I would look at the engine when cold, match up the coolant and IAT sensors. They should be close. Maybe something in that data will show something. I would also check the injectors, compare the ohm readings hot and cold. You might take a compression test as well. What does the exhaust smell like ? Rich sulfur or less smell which normally means lean or perfect .... Maybe try to run the engine on one rotor, this may find one working and one not. Something to compare things. As stated its hard to get a good feel from a video. I would also make sure you have a quality spark, meaning it should jump a good distance, not just a 1/4 inch.... I spent a week on a 13b running on one rotor due to it having a rag way down the intake of one rotor. Couldn't see it .................... good luck !

 

this was my issue. it attempted to start on its own a few times. it almost started a couple times. i will push start it and see what happens...

 

just so this thread has closure....

the clutch issue where we would drag the car and kick start it. well its like this, the car wasnt really on. they are calling it forced compression from when it was being dragged and it was just turning the motor.

this explains why the throttle had no effect and why it would die when i pressed the clutch. when i would push on the clutch pedal i am technically putting the car in neutral and since the car isnt really on, it cant idle, with the end result being...... stall.

the reason that the car wouldnt star on its own is because when starting, only the primary injectors are used and if they are bad, then the car wont start and you will be trouble shooting coil packs, grounds, the ecu, and spark plugs.... like i did.

with that said, this thread has served its purpose and hopefully it will help someone else in the future...

 

Were you getting any fuel smell at all from the exhaust? mine is acting similar but I can see fuel dripping from the exhaust after a while.

 

nope... no fuel smell at all...