Ok Before any one tells me to do a search I already checked but can't find the answer.

I have a code 11 which is Intake Air Thermosensor

The check engine light comes on for awhile then turns off. I do get the 3k hesitation also during warm up. Seems like after it warms up it does not come on any more only when its cold.

My question is when the check engine light comes on and off does that mean the Intake Air Thermosensor has a intermitted problem and if it stays on all the time has it failed.

This question also applies to all codes.
When light is on problem exist.
When light is off no problem or it has cleared after a given amount of time the ECU turns light off and waits for next problem.

I'm trying to understand if the ECU self acknowledges problems and memorises then turn light off or turn light on when problem exist?

I have ordered a Intake Air Thermosensor to clear my code 11.

Thanks in advance.

 

If you are getting the 3k hestitaion pretty bad and your check engine light is blipping, you might try adding more grounds. I think the 3k hesitation is more fuel pump mode related but the extra grouds will help out. Try the simple stuff first.

 

I believe the light stays on as long as the problem is there, and the light coming on and off means an intermittant problem. Or at least when the light is on, it means that your thermosensor is sending the computer some bogus reading.

I'm just making an educated guess here, but that seems to be my experience.

 

I have the same damn code!!!!!My cars idle is a little messed up. Does this effect your cars idle? Also do you have a part number?

 

the part number is #N3A1-18-845.
the check engine light will come on for open or short circuits. the metering pump and a couple others are more sensitive.

mike

 

Of course it's going to effect idle. It is the intake ait thermosensor.

 

Of course it's going to effect idle. It is the intake air thermosensor.

 

I have the same problem, but mine only seems to show up after sitting in traffic or RIGHT after parking for a little while... I'm guessing that the sensor is out of calibration and that occasionally (due to heat soak) the sensor sends reading that are out of range and the ECU lights up the check engine light...

after sitting in traffic a while it usually comes on for several minutes, and will cause my engine to run like crap for about 7-10 minutes after going out, engine seems like it's misfiring above 5K rpms... usually clears after 5-10 minutes or getting on it a bit I'm guessing that the ECU goes into full-rich mode and fouls my plugs up and I need to run hard or run for a while to clear them up some...

I may be wrong... but will be changing the sensor soon when I do a vacuum hose job along with other things like a full on ground strap job... we''ll see what happens after that...

 

where is that thing located anyway? i have the same problem

 

it's under the backside of the Upper Intake Manifold (UIM)

drew

 

I managed to replace mine without removing the upper intake manifold. Just don't drop anything down into the rat's nest of vacuum lines.

 

It's under the UIM, you don't have to remove the UIM completely. To those that are getting the code, get it fixed and don't just keep ignoring it. Your car can run too lean or too rich which can shorten engine life.

 

Here's the location

 

 

thanks...anybody know how much the part is?

 

WOW!...I love being in Japan...no aws!

 

OK THe acronyms in this forum kills me what is aws?

 

Accelerated Warm-up System. AKA Accelerated Wear-out System. It's responsible for revving your engine to 2500rpm for 30 seconds at startup.

 

I have the same problem/Code How much is the sensor?

 

OK I disable mine by caping the intake that went where my Greddy elbow went.
So wants the big deal about

Originally posted by jspecracer7
WOW!...I love being in Japan...no aws!

 

My sensor cost around $80. I think that's the normal dealer price.

 

OK Code 11 is still intermitted to steady till warm-up.
I've decided to rather than put it off I ordered a new air thermo sensor from the dealer. Cost is $56.

Also ordered a new washer pump motor. I never drove the car in the rain and I always hand wash and clean windsheild. I tested the wipers and washer. Wipers work washer did not, motor rusted and locked up.
A new washer motor pump from dealer $105.00

I'll never pump more than a gallon of washer fluid over the next 3 years. So I spent $105. 00 just to keep as much of this car in stock form. This baby loves my money.

 

This is the tool I made to replace the intake air thermo sensor. You do not have to remove the upper air intake.


This is the location to remove and replace the intake air thermo sensor from the passenger side. Make sure you disconnect battery before any electrical project.

After replacement I reset the CPU to clear code 11 and drive FD about 20 miles to make sure everything was OK.
After the replacement I had no 3k hesitation and motor started up smooth all the way up to running temp.
This clearly fixed all of the intermitten cold start problems. If any of you get a code 11 just replace. Its well worth the effort and sensor only cost $46.00
Local dealer gave me a 20% discount!!

The part # is N3A1-18-845

 

I wish I would have just tried something like that. I took off the UIM, and in the process I ruined a gasket.I just odered all of my stuff a few days ago and this is what it cost me sensor 62.00, waste gate and precontrol solenoid 148.00 "only needed precontrol--but they are sold as a unit. Gasket 20.00.. Thanks for all the info..

 

got mine from Mazdaformance for $45.44... should be in today, I can't wait to stop seeing that damn check engine light.