Clutch master cylinder correct operation

Ok, thanks for the help in finding the 2 nuts holding on the Clutch master cylinder, I finnaly got it out. I put a finger to block off the line which went to the hardpipe=>softpipe=>hardpipe=>slave clutch cylinder and pushed the master clutch cylinder in with the part that attached it to the clutch pedal and fluid came out of the line that draws clutch/brake fluid in from the reservoir. Is this correct clutch master cylinder operation??? I would think that something is busted inside and I need a rebuild kit because if I push the clutch in and the fluid goes back in to the reservoir instead of the hardpipe=>softpipe=>hardpipe=>slave clutch cylinder line, it would not push the clutch fork forward and in turn not disengage the transmission leading (which would explain exactly what is happening). Is this right?
Lastly, I called up a local mazda dealership and they said that they needed my vin number inorder to order the correct parts becase there are 3 different types but on mazdatrix.com website, there is only one rebuild kit. I was wondering if the local dealers were correct or if I need to provide more info to mazdatrix to get the correct rebuild kit.

Thanks

BTW: Here is what happened yesterday (some background information)…

I was working on a couple of FD's today and we actually got all of them up and running perfectly. Just as we finished up the last FD and were gonna go on a cruise, one of the FD's push his clutch pedal down and he heard a pop and his clutch pedal went all the way down to the ground and he could not shift to any gears. We tried flushing the clutch system but that did not work. There were no leaks in the system/lines so we figure it is the clutch master cylinder.

BTW: If the car is off we can shift in to any gear easily and when we start it in first gear, it will move the car foward via the starter. We also already checked the clutch fork thru the service hole and that is fine, there does not seem to be anything wrong in there. Also, when we push on the brakes, there is a gurgling/popping noise. Idk if this is related to the problem or not but the brakes work perfectly fine.

 

Your cylinder is bypassing it is in need of a rebuild if the bore is good. Look at the bore first. if the seal lip is good then there may have been dirt in the seal. any way if the bore is good rebuild it .

 

is there any good test to see if the cylinder is bypassing, mine is getting very soft and the pedal goes way down before the brake grab, and they are NEW brake pads and already bleed the lines.... any test I can do to check the master cylinder?

 

we are talking about 2 different cylinders damian but i think they operate the same way (the one im talking about is the clutch master cylinder while yours is the brake master cylinder )

btw, duboisr, your are you talking about the brake or clutch master cylinder? Also, these work the same way correct?

 

hmm, i though the fd shared the cylinder for both? my bad

 

they do share the same reservior

 

ahh, that is it, thanks for clarifying, my clutch works great, its my dam brakes that are week