Clickin under hard acceleration
#26
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now i dont want to test it out anymore if the thing will blow. we just rebuilt it a couple of summers ago already.
just like a few posts back the sound is like a metallic click approx 4-5clicks a sec i guess. it doesnt go through the stick shift much but the sound could be from the drivers side. i had the fuel filter changed about a year ago and the guage seems to be reading on the rich side.
mods are hks intake with stock twins, downpipe with aftermarket muffler(sorry i dont know the brand cause i bought it like that, greddy blowoff valve, thats pretty much it engine wise.
i wasnt around when my dad and brother rebuilt the engine(stock rebuild only, nothing great). so i dont know the condidtion of the mounts or anything.
question is how do i diagnose this without further damage or am i cooked and wait till she blows!!!
thanks for the input....sorry for the late posts, really busy at this time
later
just like a few posts back the sound is like a metallic click approx 4-5clicks a sec i guess. it doesnt go through the stick shift much but the sound could be from the drivers side. i had the fuel filter changed about a year ago and the guage seems to be reading on the rich side.
mods are hks intake with stock twins, downpipe with aftermarket muffler(sorry i dont know the brand cause i bought it like that, greddy blowoff valve, thats pretty much it engine wise.
i wasnt around when my dad and brother rebuilt the engine(stock rebuild only, nothing great). so i dont know the condidtion of the mounts or anything.
question is how do i diagnose this without further damage or am i cooked and wait till she blows!!!
thanks for the input....sorry for the late posts, really busy at this time
later
#27
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I know this doesn't help matters and it is not meant to be rude at all- if you are going to mess with cars- especially one as "finiky" as an FD you'd damn well at least know what detonation is and have "some" tuning and diagnostic experience- or just bring it right to a shop that does. It is not the car to play around with if you are inexperienced.
Anyway, I didn't read every post here so it may have been asked already- do you have a CEL on? Is it possible the knock sensor wire got knocked off? I am not 100% sure of the timing maps and how reliant they are on the feedback of the knock sensor on the FD, but some cars will detonate like mad if the knock sensor is unplugged. You really don't want any motor detonating- forced induction motors are even more important to keep out of detonation, and the rotary is even more delicate- so you have to be positive that this is not the problem. Good luck!!
Joe
Anyway, I didn't read every post here so it may have been asked already- do you have a CEL on? Is it possible the knock sensor wire got knocked off? I am not 100% sure of the timing maps and how reliant they are on the feedback of the knock sensor on the FD, but some cars will detonate like mad if the knock sensor is unplugged. You really don't want any motor detonating- forced induction motors are even more important to keep out of detonation, and the rotary is even more delicate- so you have to be positive that this is not the problem. Good luck!!
Joe
#28
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The FD knock sensor isn't good enough to save the engine. Otherwise there wouldn't be so many popped motors. It's the sound of detonation on a rotary that not everyone is familiar with. Anyone got an mp3 of it? There was one on the 2nd gen forum but its a dead link. I think every FD owner should hear it so they can recognize it immediately. Batman, does the clicking sound you had come from the detonation itself, or the seal after it's gone ?
#29
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There is a link to a video of Fritz Flynn detonating at the track in the video where some vette pops its motor. Someone described the rotary detonation as as putting a bunch of nails into a can and then shake the hell out of it Fritz did not loose his engine on that occasion.
#31
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Hey guys.. 4-5 "clicks" per second when you've built boost and are on the gas, particularly if it's from the right side of the car (drive against jersey walls and see where the echo is the loudest) is probably just the noise of your wastegate cycling. You hear it more with a downpipe and a quiet exhaust. When I had my twins on it took me a while to realize what it was. I crossed detonation off the list because of the regularity of the noise.
Just trying to give another opinion.. there are noises that your car makes when it's perfectly healthy.
Dave
Just trying to give another opinion.. there are noises that your car makes when it's perfectly healthy.
Dave
#32
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I was just thinking that the factory knock sensor is placed on the front rotor.
However, it's the rear rotor that grenades more often then not.
I think u guys know where I'm getting at.
However, it's the rear rotor that grenades more often then not.
I think u guys know where I'm getting at.
#33
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Well i guess depending on the pitch of the noise you could determine whether or not it was the wastegate or anothing noise. As with anything a noise to compare it with would be when u take the spark plug out and crank the engine holding the spark plug and wire in the hand to see if you get spark that crack of the spark is about the sound i was hearing. Which in turn I believe was detenation
The wastegate sound, I doubt it would be most people's problems due to the common location of the sound on the driver's side. Rear drivers side as with what batman said.
The wastegate sound, I doubt it would be most people's problems due to the common location of the sound on the driver's side. Rear drivers side as with what batman said.
#34
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IF you have a boost controller than thats what the clicking noise is....when the gain is set at certain levels it makes the boost controller module make a loud clicking noise under any acceleration in any gear it will click while building boost....then at full boost it will stop clicking. to fix the problem change the gain level just a bit ....THis is only if you have an aftermarket boost controller ....i had the same problem......hope this helps and good luck
#35
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Raise the rear-end (tires) off the floor/ground with a good jack (preferably by placing the Jack hub on the differential). Place stands on each side, in front of the rear tires. Maintain the Jack in position on the differential.
Lift the hood and have someone stand on the side where you think the sound is coming from. Turn the car on and accelerate with boost. You should be able to determine where the sound is coming from.
Lift the hood and have someone stand on the side where you think the sound is coming from. Turn the car on and accelerate with boost. You should be able to determine where the sound is coming from.
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