checked out a fd tonight..
12-29-07, 12:57 PM
#77
I'm glad a senior member of the forum spoke up about the condition of the engine... I knew something wasn't right and well, numbers don't lie ... but if you got it for around $10K, I guess it's not so bad as long as you have the extra $$$ in the bank
12-29-07, 01:06 PM
#78
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I'm not knocking nor questioning any of the advice given here, however this is what Jim at JPR told me. He said very good compression is at around 110psi per rotor and rebuild time is around 70psi per rotor. Now I personally don't know if this is true or not, however I would suspect that Jim would know being it's his job and he is well respected for doing it. Are you guys saying that Jim is not correct?
12-29-07, 01:12 PM
#79
I wont even sell an engine if it wont make 115psi or better with used housings. A new housing engine will give you 125+.
I dont know Jim but someone else is this thread that I trust said he is a good guy so I wont argue it. However, if I had done the compression test I would have said you should expect to do a rebuild in the near future. Can you even hot start an engine with 70psi? From experience when they get to around 80-85 psi they become very difficult to hot start.
I dont know Jim but someone else is this thread that I trust said he is a good guy so I wont argue it. However, if I had done the compression test I would have said you should expect to do a rebuild in the near future. Can you even hot start an engine with 70psi? From experience when they get to around 80-85 psi they become very difficult to hot start.
12-29-07, 01:16 PM
#80
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I wont even sell an engine if it wont make 115psi or better with used housings. A new housing engine will give you 125+.
I dont know Jim but someone else is this thread that I trust said he is a good guy so I wont argue it. However, if I had done the compression test I would have said you should expect to do a rebuild in the near future. Can you even hot start an engine with 70psi? From experience when they get to around 80-85 psi they become very difficult to hot start.
I dont know Jim but someone else is this thread that I trust said he is a good guy so I wont argue it. However, if I had done the compression test I would have said you should expect to do a rebuild in the near future. Can you even hot start an engine with 70psi? From experience when they get to around 80-85 psi they become very difficult to hot start.
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-compression-test-using-piston-engine-tester-597883/
Thanks.
-Nick
12-29-07, 01:30 PM
#81
The battery will make a huge difference and if you are using a piston compression tester you cant see the rpm like the mazda tester. Not to confuse you more but that thread was referring to NA rotaries which is a whole different animal compared to the fd.
Ill leave it at this, I hope the engine runs a long time for you and it might just do that. However, with the fd being the fragile car it is, just be prepared when the rebuild time comes.
I have nothing to gain from posting in here and not trying to earn business or down anyone else, just giving you my honest opinion.
Ill leave it at this, I hope the engine runs a long time for you and it might just do that. However, with the fd being the fragile car it is, just be prepared when the rebuild time comes.
I have nothing to gain from posting in here and not trying to earn business or down anyone else, just giving you my honest opinion.
12-29-07, 01:33 PM
#82
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html - however, the major piece of information missing from the thread, is on STEP 9:
>>>
let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
<<<
I think this is absolutely crucial and I find it quite interesting that it's missing from the post in that other thread. The psi readings are pretty consistent with allot of shops and owners I've talked to (depending on the context of possibly buying an FD from them)
I'm sure Jim is a great mechanic and knows his FD's... I also think he's a smart businessman and as such, he has a "slightly adjusted interpretation" ... which is the polite way I can describe his partial position and point of view. He would love for you to pick up this FD and then spend a bit of $$$ at his shop over the next year. Sure, he will give you great service, but c'mon he wants your business... Think about it. It's not just an engine rebuild, but everyone knows the saying .. "well, while you're at it, you might as well do this and this and that"
If you're ready for that, go for it, just don't go for blind love!
At the very least, I think you got a decent 2nd opinion .. I would seriously consider going for a lower price, under $10K, gives you more money to spend at Jim's shop... if I were Jim, I would advise on a bargaining lower price.. let the seller think about it for a week or 2.. or a month... spend the time reading and learning and saving...
And I would never knowingly do a compression test with a low battery... whats the point, why add anymore guess work to this complex equation of evaluating an FD to buy.
12-29-07, 01:35 PM
#83
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djseven, the car has been sitting on the lot 6 weeks before I bought it. He had to jump the car when we saw it because the battery had died. I plan on doing a full tune up (oil, oil filter, PCV, fuel filter), replacing the main cat with a HF cat, and giving the battery as solid charge, then I will take it back to Jim and have him run the test again. It starts up and runs fine, the idle is a little rough, but the main cat is also going very quickly. Hopefully these results will come to everyones liking..
12-29-07, 01:40 PM
#84
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Ok, first the info in that post, is EXACTLY the same as what's on rotary resurrection:
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html - however, the major piece of information missing from the thread, is on STEP 9:
>>>
let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
<<<
I think this is absolutely crucial and I find it quite interesting that it's missing from the post in that other thread. The psi readings are pretty consistent with allot of shops and owners I've talked to (depending on the context of possibly buying an FD from them)
I'm sure Jim is a great mechanic and knows his FD's... I also think he's a smart businessman and as such, he has a "slightly adjusted interpretation" ... which is the polite way I can describe his partial position and point of view. He would love for you to pick up this FD and then spend a bit of $$$ at his shop over the next year. Sure, he will give you great service, but c'mon he wants your business... Think about it. It's not just an engine rebuild, but everyone knows the saying .. "well, while you're at it, you might as well do this and this and that"
If you're ready for that, go for it, just don't go for blind love!
At the very least, I think you got a decent 2nd opinion .. I would seriously consider going for a lower price, under $10K, gives you more money to spend at Jim's shop... if I were Jim, I would advise on a bargaining lower price.. let the seller think about it for a week or 2.. or a month... spend the time reading and learning and saving...
And I would never knowingly do a compression test with a low battery... whats the point, why add anymore guess work to this complex equation of evaluating an FD to buy.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...ion_check.html - however, the major piece of information missing from the thread, is on STEP 9:
>>>
let out on the valve now, and let the tester reach an overall compression value for all 3 faces(highest of 3 will be displayed). 115+ is like new, 100-115 is healthy, 90-100 is getting weak(1 year or less in most cases) below 90 could blow at any moment.
<<<
I think this is absolutely crucial and I find it quite interesting that it's missing from the post in that other thread. The psi readings are pretty consistent with allot of shops and owners I've talked to (depending on the context of possibly buying an FD from them)
I'm sure Jim is a great mechanic and knows his FD's... I also think he's a smart businessman and as such, he has a "slightly adjusted interpretation" ... which is the polite way I can describe his partial position and point of view. He would love for you to pick up this FD and then spend a bit of $$$ at his shop over the next year. Sure, he will give you great service, but c'mon he wants your business... Think about it. It's not just an engine rebuild, but everyone knows the saying .. "well, while you're at it, you might as well do this and this and that"
If you're ready for that, go for it, just don't go for blind love!
At the very least, I think you got a decent 2nd opinion .. I would seriously consider going for a lower price, under $10K, gives you more money to spend at Jim's shop... if I were Jim, I would advise on a bargaining lower price.. let the seller think about it for a week or 2.. or a month... spend the time reading and learning and saving...
And I would never knowingly do a compression test with a low battery... whats the point, why add anymore guess work to this complex equation of evaluating an FD to buy.
-Nick
12-29-07, 02:04 PM
#85
Well, do a search on reman motors, there was a thread not too long ago, last month or so that had some alarming things to say about a random reman. It could very well need a rebuild after 5K and anyone, especially sweet ol' gandma could certainly over boost the car in 3rd or 4th gear. I've read other posts of people taking their FD's to the dealership, only to have them pop a perfectly good engine... granted.. these are random, but if you put the pieces together... lets do some math...
Mazda reman with only 5K + 90 psi "relatively" low compression = red flag. How you interpret that red flag depends on your experience and comfort level.
It could have been that the reman wasn't 100% when it came off the rebuild line as threads on this forum show many people can confirm this.. from small problems with things not being tightened, to below avg compression numbers to housings that are in terrible condition. I think if the reman was purchased recently, in last year, that's better than if it were purchased more than 1 or 2 years ago. There was some rumors about remans not being well made some time ago.
Not sure if the car has the stock radiator and stock pre-cat, but if that IS the case, then that would add yet another reason as to why the engine isn't in as good a condition as it should be. Those 2 components are culprits of the car's over-heating condition.
Add if some risky driving by a driver who doesn't know as much as he could and decides (or maybe accidentally) boosts at the wrong time with the wrong conditions and this causes further unnecessary wear...
it's certainly possible or plausible with all these things in place.
Mazda reman with only 5K + 90 psi "relatively" low compression = red flag. How you interpret that red flag depends on your experience and comfort level.
It could have been that the reman wasn't 100% when it came off the rebuild line as threads on this forum show many people can confirm this.. from small problems with things not being tightened, to below avg compression numbers to housings that are in terrible condition. I think if the reman was purchased recently, in last year, that's better than if it were purchased more than 1 or 2 years ago. There was some rumors about remans not being well made some time ago.
Not sure if the car has the stock radiator and stock pre-cat, but if that IS the case, then that would add yet another reason as to why the engine isn't in as good a condition as it should be. Those 2 components are culprits of the car's over-heating condition.
Add if some risky driving by a driver who doesn't know as much as he could and decides (or maybe accidentally) boosts at the wrong time with the wrong conditions and this causes further unnecessary wear...
it's certainly possible or plausible with all these things in place.
12-29-07, 02:12 PM
#86
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Well, do a search on reman motors, there was a thread not too long ago, last month or so that had some alarming things to say about a random reman. It could very well need a rebuild after 5K and anyone, especially sweet ol' gandma could certainly over boost the car in 3rd or 4th gear. I've read other posts of people taking their FD's to the dealership, only to have them pop a perfectly good engine... granted.. these are random, but if you put the pieces together... lets do some math...
Mazda reman with only 5K + 90 psi "relatively" low compression = red flag. How you interpret that red flag depends on your experience and comfort level.
It could have been that the reman wasn't 100% when it came off the rebuild line as threads on this forum show many people can confirm this.. from small problems with things not being tightened, to below avg compression numbers to housings that are in terrible condition. I think if the reman was purchased recently, in last year, that's better than if it were purchased more than 1 or 2 years ago. There was some rumors about remans not being well made some time ago.
Not sure if the car has the stock radiator and stock pre-cat, but if that IS the case, then that would add yet another reason as to why the engine isn't in as good a condition as it should be. Those 2 components are culprits of the car's over-heating condition.
Add if some risky driving by a driver who doesn't know as much as he could and decides (or maybe accidentally) boosts at the wrong time with the wrong conditions and this causes further unnecessary wear...
it's certainly possible or plausible with all these things in place.
Mazda reman with only 5K + 90 psi "relatively" low compression = red flag. How you interpret that red flag depends on your experience and comfort level.
It could have been that the reman wasn't 100% when it came off the rebuild line as threads on this forum show many people can confirm this.. from small problems with things not being tightened, to below avg compression numbers to housings that are in terrible condition. I think if the reman was purchased recently, in last year, that's better than if it were purchased more than 1 or 2 years ago. There was some rumors about remans not being well made some time ago.
Not sure if the car has the stock radiator and stock pre-cat, but if that IS the case, then that would add yet another reason as to why the engine isn't in as good a condition as it should be. Those 2 components are culprits of the car's over-heating condition.
Add if some risky driving by a driver who doesn't know as much as he could and decides (or maybe accidentally) boosts at the wrong time with the wrong conditions and this causes further unnecessary wear...
it's certainly possible or plausible with all these things in place.
Until I change some things, tune it up, charge the battery, and get another test done, theres really nothing I can do, but sit here with my fingers crossed.
-Nick
12-29-07, 02:34 PM
#87
I've never heard of compression numbers going up, unless a low battery is replaced with a brand new one, and all other things being equal. You might want to consider just putting in a new battery and try then, before the tune up and other stuff.
Also, ask Jim to do an overnight coolant pressure test. if coolant is leaking into the compression champers, that will help determine if the coolant seals are beginning to fade, also signs of white smoke past the 5-10 minutes of warm up ) with a sweet smell, are also signs of poor coolant seals.
Unfortunately, only a rebuild with fresh seals (apex, coolant, oil, etc) gives more significant compression results.
And don't ever use any of that radiator sealant goo or some other oil "sealer" goo you pour into your engine, that stuff is crap and will just make the car run like crap. If I found a motor with that in there, I know the seller is trying to hide a limping motor, especially if it had bad numbers to begin with.
Also, ask Jim to do an overnight coolant pressure test. if coolant is leaking into the compression champers, that will help determine if the coolant seals are beginning to fade, also signs of white smoke past the 5-10 minutes of warm up ) with a sweet smell, are also signs of poor coolant seals.
Unfortunately, only a rebuild with fresh seals (apex, coolant, oil, etc) gives more significant compression results.
And don't ever use any of that radiator sealant goo or some other oil "sealer" goo you pour into your engine, that stuff is crap and will just make the car run like crap. If I found a motor with that in there, I know the seller is trying to hide a limping motor, especially if it had bad numbers to begin with.
12-29-07, 02:40 PM
#88
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I've never heard of compression numbers going up, unless a low battery is replaced with a brand new one, and all other things being equal. You might want to consider just putting in a new battery and try then, before the tune up and other stuff.
Also, ask Jim to do an overnight coolant pressure test. if coolant is leaking into the compression champers, that will help determine if the coolant seals are beginning to fade, also signs of white smoke past the 5-10 minutes of warm up ) with a sweet smell, are also signs of poor coolant seals.
Unfortunately, only a rebuild with fresh seals (apex, coolant, oil, etc) gives more significant compression results.
And don't ever use any of that radiator sealant goo or some other oil "sealer" goo you pour into your engine, that stuff is crap and will just make the car run like crap. If I found a motor with that in there, I know the seller is trying to hide a limping motor, especially if it had bad numbers to begin with.
Also, ask Jim to do an overnight coolant pressure test. if coolant is leaking into the compression champers, that will help determine if the coolant seals are beginning to fade, also signs of white smoke past the 5-10 minutes of warm up ) with a sweet smell, are also signs of poor coolant seals.
Unfortunately, only a rebuild with fresh seals (apex, coolant, oil, etc) gives more significant compression results.
And don't ever use any of that radiator sealant goo or some other oil "sealer" goo you pour into your engine, that stuff is crap and will just make the car run like crap. If I found a motor with that in there, I know the seller is trying to hide a limping motor, especially if it had bad numbers to begin with.
12-29-07, 04:26 PM
#89
I would venture to guess that this car got a "not so good" reman motor to begin with and with stock cooling options, the car overheated a bit too much, or there was more than normal wear due to the reman not being as good a condition as if the motor were just rebuilt by a good shop.
I would also venture to guess that the low compression reading came with the reman when and wherever it was installed... which helps explain a bit why the car changed hands a few times in a relatively short time frame.
Just knowing that the range is up to 120 psi ; I want to be as close to that as possible... I think there are plenty of "other" things with the car to concentrate on. turbo leaks, vacuum leaks, "pick something" leaks.
For my next FD, I have already made the decision that I will not buy an FD with a fresh (under 10K) reman install that also has any readings under 95 psi .. that's just not the position I want to start out in. I don't want to find myself "in that moment" when I am super jazzed about my new FD only to be faced with dropping another $5-6K to get it running again, not in the first year.
I would also venture to guess that the low compression reading came with the reman when and wherever it was installed... which helps explain a bit why the car changed hands a few times in a relatively short time frame.
Just knowing that the range is up to 120 psi ; I want to be as close to that as possible... I think there are plenty of "other" things with the car to concentrate on. turbo leaks, vacuum leaks, "pick something" leaks.
For my next FD, I have already made the decision that I will not buy an FD with a fresh (under 10K) reman install that also has any readings under 95 psi .. that's just not the position I want to start out in. I don't want to find myself "in that moment" when I am super jazzed about my new FD only to be faced with dropping another $5-6K to get it running again, not in the first year.
12-29-07, 04:31 PM
#90
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Well whatever it is at this point there is no changing that so I will have to deal with it from here. Besides if it does eventually blow, just gives me an excuse to get a large streetport and R85 turbo that I've always wanted 
. Of course then I'm looking at almost 10k of work and whatnot..
. Of course then I'm looking at almost 10k of work and whatnot..
12-29-07, 07:28 PM
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12-30-07, 10:57 AM
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So it turns out that my compression at 90psi is not "middle of the pack" as Jim from JPR claimed, according to the forum. What do you guys think I should do now?
-Nick
-Nick
12-30-07, 11:26 AM
#96
Did you buy the car already? if not, negotiate a lower price. Jim will still be happy...
If you DID buy the car already, then you really need to follow through and do some thorough diagnostic. Here take a read from some notes I saved from various threads regarding coolant seals, which with a lower than avg psi reading, would be the first thing I would check.
>>>
Coolant notes:
Coolant seals typically leak through a very small spot. So during driving the coolant seeps out very slowly or not at all since the combustion chamber keeps a higher pressure than the coolant passages, driving engine gasses into the coolant rather than coolant into the engine.
Now the car is warmed up and the cooling system is pressurized. If you stop the car the pressure in the engine goes to zero and the residual cooling system pressure squeezes coolant into the engine. Depending on how bad the leak is and how long it's sat hot, it can be hard to start and will blow coolant smoke. Ditto if you shut the car down and start it the next day. So that's how it can affect cold starts.
This is exactly what happened to me. I tried to convince myself that since I never saw any white smoke, or smelled any coolant burning, that the coolant seals were not my problem. I knew I was losing coolant slowly, and the system wasn't pulling coolant back from the overflow tank, but I figured it was a leaky hose (I ended up replacing them all). I also had problems with my temp gauge reading erratically due to air in the system (the sensor was at the highest point in the TB coolant line). I tried in vein to "burp" the system, but after an hour or so of driving, I could hear the air burbling around in the heater core again. When it got to the point that the system would still be under a huge amount of pressure, even after sitting for days, I knew it was curtains for the seals. Thankfully my car never overheated as a result of this.
The bottom line is this. There are 2 easy ways to tell if you actually have a bad coolant seal: Pressure test the system, or get a hydrocarbon test. You can have these tests done just about anywhere, and its really the only way to know for sure.
Most coolant seal failures happen in the region by the combustion side.
Another way to tell is to look for little champagne type bubbles in the coolant. Take off the cap near the water pump area (when the vehicle is cold), start the car up and look for little bubbles in the coolant. If you've got a coolant leak it might be visable that way. If the coolant just starts backing out as the car heats up and there isn't any bubbles, my guess is that there isn't a coolant seal failure.
Pull your leading plugs and clean/dry them thoroughly. Put them back in and let the car sit overnight, the next morning inspect the plugs to see if they are wet from coolant.
<<<
Hope some of that makes sense, if not, just keep reading threads around this forum... and talk to Jim.
The next things I would look more closely at are the fuel injectors and be watchful for leaky, clogged, sticking injectors ... maybe remove them and have them serviced. Also look at the fuel pulsation dampner, water pump, coolant hoses for leaks, intercooler piping for cracks/splits and the air box hoses.
Read about what problems can occur and what the symptoms look like and how to repair it.
If you DID buy the car already, then you really need to follow through and do some thorough diagnostic. Here take a read from some notes I saved from various threads regarding coolant seals, which with a lower than avg psi reading, would be the first thing I would check.
>>>
Coolant notes:
Coolant seals typically leak through a very small spot. So during driving the coolant seeps out very slowly or not at all since the combustion chamber keeps a higher pressure than the coolant passages, driving engine gasses into the coolant rather than coolant into the engine.
Now the car is warmed up and the cooling system is pressurized. If you stop the car the pressure in the engine goes to zero and the residual cooling system pressure squeezes coolant into the engine. Depending on how bad the leak is and how long it's sat hot, it can be hard to start and will blow coolant smoke. Ditto if you shut the car down and start it the next day. So that's how it can affect cold starts.
This is exactly what happened to me. I tried to convince myself that since I never saw any white smoke, or smelled any coolant burning, that the coolant seals were not my problem. I knew I was losing coolant slowly, and the system wasn't pulling coolant back from the overflow tank, but I figured it was a leaky hose (I ended up replacing them all). I also had problems with my temp gauge reading erratically due to air in the system (the sensor was at the highest point in the TB coolant line). I tried in vein to "burp" the system, but after an hour or so of driving, I could hear the air burbling around in the heater core again. When it got to the point that the system would still be under a huge amount of pressure, even after sitting for days, I knew it was curtains for the seals. Thankfully my car never overheated as a result of this.
The bottom line is this. There are 2 easy ways to tell if you actually have a bad coolant seal: Pressure test the system, or get a hydrocarbon test. You can have these tests done just about anywhere, and its really the only way to know for sure.
Most coolant seal failures happen in the region by the combustion side.
Another way to tell is to look for little champagne type bubbles in the coolant. Take off the cap near the water pump area (when the vehicle is cold), start the car up and look for little bubbles in the coolant. If you've got a coolant leak it might be visable that way. If the coolant just starts backing out as the car heats up and there isn't any bubbles, my guess is that there isn't a coolant seal failure.
Pull your leading plugs and clean/dry them thoroughly. Put them back in and let the car sit overnight, the next morning inspect the plugs to see if they are wet from coolant.
<<<
Hope some of that makes sense, if not, just keep reading threads around this forum... and talk to Jim.
The next things I would look more closely at are the fuel injectors and be watchful for leaky, clogged, sticking injectors ... maybe remove them and have them serviced. Also look at the fuel pulsation dampner, water pump, coolant hoses for leaks, intercooler piping for cracks/splits and the air box hoses.
Read about what problems can occur and what the symptoms look like and how to repair it.
Last edited by MrNizzles; 12-30-07 at 11:33 AM.
12-30-07, 02:06 PM
#98
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Did you buy the car already? if not, negotiate a lower price. Jim will still be happy...
If you DID buy the car already, then you really need to follow through and do some thorough diagnostic. Here take a read from some notes I saved from various threads regarding coolant seals, which with a lower than avg psi reading, would be the first thing I would check.
>>>
Coolant notes:
Coolant seals typically leak through a very small spot. So during driving the coolant seeps out very slowly or not at all since the combustion chamber keeps a higher pressure than the coolant passages, driving engine gasses into the coolant rather than coolant into the engine.
Now the car is warmed up and the cooling system is pressurized. If you stop the car the pressure in the engine goes to zero and the residual cooling system pressure squeezes coolant into the engine. Depending on how bad the leak is and how long it's sat hot, it can be hard to start and will blow coolant smoke. Ditto if you shut the car down and start it the next day. So that's how it can affect cold starts.
This is exactly what happened to me. I tried to convince myself that since I never saw any white smoke, or smelled any coolant burning, that the coolant seals were not my problem. I knew I was losing coolant slowly, and the system wasn't pulling coolant back from the overflow tank, but I figured it was a leaky hose (I ended up replacing them all). I also had problems with my temp gauge reading erratically due to air in the system (the sensor was at the highest point in the TB coolant line). I tried in vein to "burp" the system, but after an hour or so of driving, I could hear the air burbling around in the heater core again. When it got to the point that the system would still be under a huge amount of pressure, even after sitting for days, I knew it was curtains for the seals. Thankfully my car never overheated as a result of this.
The bottom line is this. There are 2 easy ways to tell if you actually have a bad coolant seal: Pressure test the system, or get a hydrocarbon test. You can have these tests done just about anywhere, and its really the only way to know for sure.
Most coolant seal failures happen in the region by the combustion side.
Another way to tell is to look for little champagne type bubbles in the coolant. Take off the cap near the water pump area (when the vehicle is cold), start the car up and look for little bubbles in the coolant. If you've got a coolant leak it might be visable that way. If the coolant just starts backing out as the car heats up and there isn't any bubbles, my guess is that there isn't a coolant seal failure.
Pull your leading plugs and clean/dry them thoroughly. Put them back in and let the car sit overnight, the next morning inspect the plugs to see if they are wet from coolant.
<<<
Hope some of that makes sense, if not, just keep reading threads around this forum... and talk to Jim.
The next things I would look more closely at are the fuel injectors and be watchful for leaky, clogged, sticking injectors ... maybe remove them and have them serviced. Also look at the fuel pulsation dampner, water pump, coolant hoses for leaks, intercooler piping for cracks/splits and the air box hoses.
Read about what problems can occur and what the symptoms look like and how to repair it.
If you DID buy the car already, then you really need to follow through and do some thorough diagnostic. Here take a read from some notes I saved from various threads regarding coolant seals, which with a lower than avg psi reading, would be the first thing I would check.
>>>
Coolant notes:
Coolant seals typically leak through a very small spot. So during driving the coolant seeps out very slowly or not at all since the combustion chamber keeps a higher pressure than the coolant passages, driving engine gasses into the coolant rather than coolant into the engine.
Now the car is warmed up and the cooling system is pressurized. If you stop the car the pressure in the engine goes to zero and the residual cooling system pressure squeezes coolant into the engine. Depending on how bad the leak is and how long it's sat hot, it can be hard to start and will blow coolant smoke. Ditto if you shut the car down and start it the next day. So that's how it can affect cold starts.
This is exactly what happened to me. I tried to convince myself that since I never saw any white smoke, or smelled any coolant burning, that the coolant seals were not my problem. I knew I was losing coolant slowly, and the system wasn't pulling coolant back from the overflow tank, but I figured it was a leaky hose (I ended up replacing them all). I also had problems with my temp gauge reading erratically due to air in the system (the sensor was at the highest point in the TB coolant line). I tried in vein to "burp" the system, but after an hour or so of driving, I could hear the air burbling around in the heater core again. When it got to the point that the system would still be under a huge amount of pressure, even after sitting for days, I knew it was curtains for the seals. Thankfully my car never overheated as a result of this.
The bottom line is this. There are 2 easy ways to tell if you actually have a bad coolant seal: Pressure test the system, or get a hydrocarbon test. You can have these tests done just about anywhere, and its really the only way to know for sure.
Most coolant seal failures happen in the region by the combustion side.
Another way to tell is to look for little champagne type bubbles in the coolant. Take off the cap near the water pump area (when the vehicle is cold), start the car up and look for little bubbles in the coolant. If you've got a coolant leak it might be visable that way. If the coolant just starts backing out as the car heats up and there isn't any bubbles, my guess is that there isn't a coolant seal failure.
Pull your leading plugs and clean/dry them thoroughly. Put them back in and let the car sit overnight, the next morning inspect the plugs to see if they are wet from coolant.
<<<
Hope some of that makes sense, if not, just keep reading threads around this forum... and talk to Jim.
The next things I would look more closely at are the fuel injectors and be watchful for leaky, clogged, sticking injectors ... maybe remove them and have them serviced. Also look at the fuel pulsation dampner, water pump, coolant hoses for leaks, intercooler piping for cracks/splits and the air box hoses.
Read about what problems can occur and what the symptoms look like and how to repair it.
-Nick
01-02-08, 02:51 PM
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Another way to tell is to look for little champagne type bubbles in the coolant. Take off the cap near the water pump area (when the vehicle is cold), start the car up and look for little bubbles in the coolant. If you've got a coolant leak it might be visable that way. If the coolant just starts backing out as the car heats up and there isn't any bubbles, my guess is that there isn't a coolant seal failure.
-Nick
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