Check out my homemade Urethane motor mounts
#1
Check out my homemade Urethane motor mounts
I have decided to make some urethane motor mounts for my car while. I basically made them just like they are described in this thread.. https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...5&pagenumber=3
I am also going to add some 60 shore urethane and a 1/8" steel washer to the bottom to try to absorb some of the vibrations.
Here is a pic of the mounts themselves
Here is a pic of the 60 shore and washers.
I am also going to add some 60 shore urethane and a 1/8" steel washer to the bottom to try to absorb some of the vibrations.
Here is a pic of the mounts themselves
Here is a pic of the 60 shore and washers.
#3
I used the same stuff as Damian did, part #8695K653
at mcmaster carr.
I thought about not using the straps, but I really don't see what harm they do, and along the same lines I don't see what good they would do with this design. I think it is really up to you whether you use it.
at mcmaster carr.
I thought about not using the straps, but I really don't see what harm they do, and along the same lines I don't see what good they would do with this design. I think it is really up to you whether you use it.
#4
ok i read the other post. let me outline what i understand the process to be.
-cut the main portions 2.1" & 2.3"
-use a 3" long bolt to hold it all together.
-on the bottom side of the engine cradle, you can used either a drilled hockey puck or a 1" piece of urethane in order to reduce "pull vibration"
and that is the whole nine yards?
could you use a .75" piece of urethane on the bottom(this would allow you to use one 6" rod instead of buying a longer 12")
-cut the main portions 2.1" & 2.3"
-use a 3" long bolt to hold it all together.
-on the bottom side of the engine cradle, you can used either a drilled hockey puck or a 1" piece of urethane in order to reduce "pull vibration"
and that is the whole nine yards?
could you use a .75" piece of urethane on the bottom(this would allow you to use one 6" rod instead of buying a longer 12")
Last edited by JMunilla94RX7; 04-01-04 at 12:37 PM.
#5
Originally posted by JMunilla94RX7
ok i read the other post. let me outline what i understand the process to be.
-cut the main portions 2.1" & 2.3"
-use a 3" long bolt to hold it all together.
-on the bottom side of the engine cradle, you can used either a drilled hockey puck or a 1" piece of urethane in order to reduce "pull vibration"
and that is the whole nine yards?
could you use a .75" piece of urethane on the bottom(this would allow you to use one 6" rod instead of buying a longer 12")
ok i read the other post. let me outline what i understand the process to be.
-cut the main portions 2.1" & 2.3"
-use a 3" long bolt to hold it all together.
-on the bottom side of the engine cradle, you can used either a drilled hockey puck or a 1" piece of urethane in order to reduce "pull vibration"
and that is the whole nine yards?
could you use a .75" piece of urethane on the bottom(this would allow you to use one 6" rod instead of buying a longer 12")
A 3" bolt will not be long enough, you will need a 3-1/2 without the extra rubber, or a 4" if you add the 60 shore like I did.
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#9
Originally posted by Rx7@Rocketship.com
What are your thoughts on possibly going with 60 Durometer bar?
Cheers,
David
What are your thoughts on possibly going with 60 Durometer bar?
Cheers,
David
#10
Originally posted by legal-z
how about making a bunch of these for those of us that don't have the time or skill and saving us some money on mounts while making yourself some extra $$ at the same time?
how about making a bunch of these for those of us that don't have the time or skill and saving us some money on mounts while making yourself some extra $$ at the same time?
#12
Great post. I only have some questions:
Is this the length? This means the left and right motor mounts are not of same size?
What should be the diameter of this bar?
-cut the main portions 2.1" & 2.3"
What should be the diameter of this bar?
Last edited by soru81; 04-02-04 at 03:33 AM.
#13
i would probably have used a much bigger urethane washer, the ones i run are about 1" thick, anad about twice the size of that, you want it to mold around the subframe, most of the driver's side force is exerted on that piece
just my $.02
just my $.02
#14
Originally posted by Rx7@Rocketship.com
What are your thoughts on possibly going with 60 Durometer bar?
Cheers,
David
What are your thoughts on possibly going with 60 Durometer bar?
Cheers,
David
with 80-90shore, torque brace is unnecessary
#15
Originally posted by soru81
Great post. I only have some questions:
Is this the length? This means the left and right motor mounts are not of same size?
What should be the diameter of this bar?
Great post. I only have some questions:
Is this the length? This means the left and right motor mounts are not of same size?
What should be the diameter of this bar?
#19
I poured my own, with the stock parts, melted away the rubber in a fireplace, the built a cylinder out of a thin sheet of aluminium and the poured the polyurathane solution into the cup (I had help)...
The question that I'd like an answer to is, how do you like 'em !?
Performance wise I love mine, no more sifter movement, during wot, but there is a significant amount of vibration below 2k rpm... that is transferred to the frame... unavoidable I suppose, but do you think the trade off was worth it !?
The question that I'd like an answer to is, how do you like 'em !?
Performance wise I love mine, no more sifter movement, during wot, but there is a significant amount of vibration below 2k rpm... that is transferred to the frame... unavoidable I suppose, but do you think the trade off was worth it !?
Last edited by DCrosby; 05-07-04 at 05:51 PM.
#20
Speed Mach Go Go Go
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From: My 350Z Roadster kicks my RX7's butt
I have a solution for the vibration. Feel free to try it since I don't know when my car will be running. It's pretty simple really. Cut some "Dynamat" circles and stick them to the bottom of the mounts. If you need more then do some patches in between the the car body and the motor cradle (whatever it's called).
#21
Bolt question
I don't know if anyone has addressed this but if you look at the stock motor mounts, the bolt that attaches to the mount itself is independent of the bolt that sticks out of the rubber. I see everyone is just using one bolt. Is there a problem in doing this?
#22
Yes in the stock mounts it acts like
L
T
kind of like that except they're two "T" one upside wown one right side up, and the t is really a round plate with a bolt on it, and they sit opposite of eachother with some of the suspension material in-between... to "isloate" vibrations...
The ones I made are stock, just with new suspension material used. The ones with a bolt trough will most likely be barsher since metal is harmonious, as in transmits vibrations. But as I don't have both, I can only speak of my method...
L
T
kind of like that except they're two "T" one upside wown one right side up, and the t is really a round plate with a bolt on it, and they sit opposite of eachother with some of the suspension material in-between... to "isloate" vibrations...
The ones I made are stock, just with new suspension material used. The ones with a bolt trough will most likely be barsher since metal is harmonious, as in transmits vibrations. But as I don't have both, I can only speak of my method...
Last edited by DCrosby; 05-25-04 at 01:05 PM.
#23
Update time- I have the car running and have had a chance to test out the mounts. I have to agree with everyone about the vibration being noticeable under 2000 rpm's. Get the car above 2000 rpm’s and you can hardly tell, it is baby smooth to me. I haven’t had a chance to beat on the car yet since it isn't tuned. I will give more feedback later. All and all I am very happy with the mounts and don't have any intention of removing them. I think that the benefits outweigh the negatives. Oh and it sure beats buying on of those pointless torque braces.
#24
Originally posted by DCrosby
I poured my own, with the stock parts, melted away the rubber in a fireplace, the built a cylinder out of a thin sheet of aluminium and the poured the polyurathane solution into the cup (I had help)...
The question that I'd like an answer to is, how do you like 'em !?
Performance wise I love mine, no more sifter movement, during wot, but there is a significant amount of vibration below 2k rpm... that is transferred to the frame... unavoidable I suppose, but do you think the trade off was worth it !?
I poured my own, with the stock parts, melted away the rubber in a fireplace, the built a cylinder out of a thin sheet of aluminium and the poured the polyurathane solution into the cup (I had help)...
The question that I'd like an answer to is, how do you like 'em !?
Performance wise I love mine, no more sifter movement, during wot, but there is a significant amount of vibration below 2k rpm... that is transferred to the frame... unavoidable I suppose, but do you think the trade off was worth it !?
#25
The torque brace is not useless. I have urethane mounts and a torque brace. You basically gave the answer to why. The engine is still pulling in one direction. The torque brace give you bracing from a different direction within the bay.
By the way after about 2k miles the urethane mounts soften up and you can't feel any vibrations.
Chris
By the way after about 2k miles the urethane mounts soften up and you can't feel any vibrations.
Chris