GsrSol

I put some Chevron Techron injector cleaner in yesterday and after a while the check engine light would flicker, it would come on when idleing or cruising but it would go off if I gave it about 3/4 throttle.

I know alot of you run this injector cleaner and thats why I went with it, so I was wondering if this has happened to anyone else?

I did mix it correctly and have not done anything else that would cause this.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

Don't get paranoid on us, it is only coincidence.

billyrohm

check your engine light code, I forgot the site but if you do a search on the forum you should be able to find it. It being the site that tells how to check the code and what each one means.

martini

You may have just dirtied up your O2 sensor or something.

You can pop open your diagnostic pob in the engine bay, and put a wire (or paperclip or something) in the TEN and GND spots. Then start the car, and watch for the blinks, write them down (L for long blink, S for short blink). One L blink = 10, One S blink = 1 (So LLSSSS would = 24, get it?). Then the error codes are listed here http://www.jayspec7.com/errorcodes.html

GsrSol

The check engine light wont stay on long enough for me to check the codes. I'm trying to run out this tank of gas quickly and hoping it won't do it again on the next tank.
Thanks for the responses.

Flybye

It doesn't matter if the CEL doesn't stay on. The ECU retains in memory the last error code it gave out. Check it anyways and you will be given that same code that is causing the CEL to flicker.

GsrSol

OK, error code is 9, I triple checked it to make sure.
Here is what the code reads:

Water Thermosensor
open or short circuit

So now what? What the hell does that mean?

Where is the water thermosensor?

I'm pretty sure I don't have a short curcuit because I haven't touched anything.

Thanks everyone

JConn2299

Well at least now you know the Techron isn't the source of your problem.

Flybye

It's your water temperature sensor you nut :p

You see the Crossover pipe between the turbos and the IC? Well remove it. Now look under the bracket behind the water pump housing. Yeah that funny looking thing that has a connector attached to it is your water thermosensor.

You can do 2 things at this point:
1) Reset the ECU to see if the error comes back, and if it does, it's time to take it out

or

2) Just take it out and OHM test it.
If you dunk it within 68F water, the sensor should read between 2.2-2.7 ohms
If you dunk it within 176F water, the sensor should read between .29-.35 ohms

If not, then replace it.

GsrSol

I was hoping it was the Techron

Now I'm hoping the connector is just loose.

Thanks, now I can move on and fix this damn thing rather then paying someone $65 just to tell me where it is at.

hapa

I had this problem a while back. The sensor is a b*tch to change. The connector on the sensor itself was all brittle from the heat of the engine. I ended up just breaking all of the plastic off and then unscrewing the sensor. The part # is NF02-18840 and it lists for $76.84, cheapest I found was $47.89 from mazdastuff 877-96-south. I don't know if those prices are current I changed mine in June.

eric

GsrSol

I checked it out today and the wire was fine but the plastic around it was breaking off. There was also some black rtv crap on the sensor, is that normal or someone just quick fix it?

I'm gonna replace it anyways so it won't matter.

Thanks, couldn't have done it without you.