cheap stock airbox mod
05-23-07 | 06:28 PM
#201
...... I suspect that the screen you have installed may also be restricting airflow, and reducing performance.
FWIW, I have only cleaned my K&N once since I modified my airbox 4 1/2 years ago. It really wasn't that dirty at the time. I only cleaned it because I had the box out while doing some other work.
FWIW, I have only cleaned my K&N once since I modified my airbox 4 1/2 years ago. It really wasn't that dirty at the time. I only cleaned it because I had the box out while doing some other work.
05-23-07 | 07:08 PM
#202
Thread Starter
Cheap Bastard
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From: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Wow!! Grasshoppers, butterflies, and other assorted bugs!!! I don't blame you for installing the screen. I have never had any problems like that. Glad to hear that your performance didn't suffer 
I thought the screen might cause some restriction. Good idea!!!
Thanks again, Adam
I thought the screen might cause some restriction. Good idea!!!Thanks again, Adam
06-19-07 | 11:09 AM
#203
In North Florida, I'm getting insects and leaves, and when I go off during a track day, sand as well.
Regardless, the fit was perfect, and with the holes I hear the blow-off valve (just like a Suby WRX, NOT!).
:-) neil
Regardless, the fit was perfect, and with the holes I hear the blow-off valve (just like a Suby WRX, NOT!).
:-) neil
06-19-07 | 11:20 AM
#204
i'm going to do this mod when i get back down to FL at the end of the month. i was thinking about putting together a pettit style intake for like $160 (ebay pipes, k&n filters, silicon couplers) but for now i think i'll try modding the stock box. i'll share pics when i do it too
i'm just going to make my own heatshield...i've made them before so i'm sure i can make one for this type of airbox mod.
i'm just going to make my own heatshield...i've made them before so i'm sure i can make one for this type of airbox mod.
Last edited by theorie; 06-19-07 at 11:26 AM.
03-11-08 | 05:02 PM
#212
Hey Adam...I bought and installed your intake about a year and a half ago or so and I've been very happy with it. I'm just curious of your opinion on something.
Being that I've had the mod for quite some time, naturally I've gotten used to the added power and plan to start modifying the car some more. My question is this: If money were not really an issue and you could buy any intake on the market, would any of them be better than what we have now? Even the slightest bit of difference? I personally don't care whether the car looks stock or not right now, so that's not an important factor for me.
Just curious what your thoughts are.
Thanks,
Ian
Being that I've had the mod for quite some time, naturally I've gotten used to the added power and plan to start modifying the car some more. My question is this: If money were not really an issue and you could buy any intake on the market, would any of them be better than what we have now? Even the slightest bit of difference? I personally don't care whether the car looks stock or not right now, so that's not an important factor for me.
Just curious what your thoughts are.
Thanks,
Ian
03-11-08 | 07:44 PM
#213
Thread Starter
Cheap Bastard
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Hey Adam...I bought and installed your intake about a year and a half ago or so and I've been very happy with it. I'm just curious of your opinion on something.
Being that I've had the mod for quite some time, naturally I've gotten used to the added power and plan to start modifying the car some more. My question is this: If money were not really an issue and you could buy any intake on the market, would any of them be better than what we have now? Even the slightest bit of difference? I personally don't care whether the car looks stock or not right now, so that's not an important factor for me.
Just curious what your thoughts are.
Thanks,
Ian
Being that I've had the mod for quite some time, naturally I've gotten used to the added power and plan to start modifying the car some more. My question is this: If money were not really an issue and you could buy any intake on the market, would any of them be better than what we have now? Even the slightest bit of difference? I personally don't care whether the car looks stock or not right now, so that's not an important factor for me.
Just curious what your thoughts are.
Thanks,
Ian
I'm pretty convinced that the Cheap Bastard Intake mod is the best intake available. It's better than any of the "expensive" cold air intakes for several reasons:
1. It's a big box with a really big filter. Many of the aftermarket boxes have these tiny little filters crammed into them. This doesn't allow for good airflow at all because large sections of the little filters are crammed against the inside edges of the box.
2. You have 2 sources of cold air. The expensive intakes only pull air from under the car. The Cheap Bastard Intake mod retains the stock intake source from the front, and adds an second source which pulls air from the front, and under the car. Two cold air sources are much better than one.
3. It fits like a glove. Many of the aftermarket intakes have to be modified, and are difficult to get in and out. The stock box fits like it is supposed to.
I believe that the Cheap Bastard Intake will flow as well as any of the "hot" air intakes, without sucking hot air.
As far as mods for your car, I would suggest 2 upgrades:
1. A better intercooler. If you still have the stock unit, it should be next on the list of things to replace. The Blitz SMIC is about twice the capacity of stock, and fits pretty good. There may be a few others that will fit with the stock airbox, and battery. The Greddy SMIC will fit, but is very tight difficult installation.
2. Efini y-pipe. An easy mod that will improve flow. Mazda claimed 10 additional HP with this improved pipe. I doubt that it was that much, but it will certainly help.
I hope this helps you
Adam
07-16-08 | 10:01 PM
#217
Hi Adam.
So, I went autoxing last weekend with your airbox and other new goodies I installed days earlier, Power FC, AFX meter, and downpipe.
Installation was straightforward. Both Sat and Sun were hot days, in excess of 80 deg F
Charge temperature as measured by the PFC at the UIM was quite high, 77 C on avg with 10 psi boost on Saturday. Sunday, I dropped the boost one pound and got avg charge temperature of 64 C.
Now, this is the first time I could read charge temperature values because I didn't have the PFC before and honestly cannot tell how much charger air temperature would have been without your modified air box.
I bought a Coolingmist AI system which I will install hopefully in the near future which should help keeping temperature further down I hope.
And yes, between runs I sprayed well IC, pipes, UIM, radiator, and oil coolers (I wonder if I should use CO2 for that...)
Back to your box, I think it is a clever solution. I don't know how all the other expensive commercial products compare but I don't see it how they could perform any better. Your shield clearly separates the intake form other hotter air.
Best,
Sandro
So, I went autoxing last weekend with your airbox and other new goodies I installed days earlier, Power FC, AFX meter, and downpipe.
Installation was straightforward. Both Sat and Sun were hot days, in excess of 80 deg F
Charge temperature as measured by the PFC at the UIM was quite high, 77 C on avg with 10 psi boost on Saturday. Sunday, I dropped the boost one pound and got avg charge temperature of 64 C.
Now, this is the first time I could read charge temperature values because I didn't have the PFC before and honestly cannot tell how much charger air temperature would have been without your modified air box.
I bought a Coolingmist AI system which I will install hopefully in the near future which should help keeping temperature further down I hope.
And yes, between runs I sprayed well IC, pipes, UIM, radiator, and oil coolers (I wonder if I should use CO2 for that...)
Back to your box, I think it is a clever solution. I don't know how all the other expensive commercial products compare but I don't see it how they could perform any better. Your shield clearly separates the intake form other hotter air.
Best,
Sandro
07-18-08 | 12:43 AM
#218
Thread Starter
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,370
Likes: 50
From: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Hi Adam.
So, I went autoxing last weekend with your airbox and other new goodies I installed days earlier, Power FC, AFX meter, and downpipe.
Installation was straightforward. Both Sat and Sun were hot days, in excess of 80 deg F
Charge temperature as measured by the PFC at the UIM was quite high, 77 C on avg with 10 psi boost on Saturday. Sunday, I dropped the boost one pound and got avg charge temperature of 64 C.
Now, this is the first time I could read charge temperature values because I didn't have the PFC before and honestly cannot tell how much charger air temperature would have been without your modified air box.
I bought a Coolingmist AI system which I will install hopefully in the near future which should help keeping temperature further down I hope.
And yes, between runs I sprayed well IC, pipes, UIM, radiator, and oil coolers (I wonder if I should use CO2 for that...)
Back to your box, I think it is a clever solution. I don't know how all the other expensive commercial products compare but I don't see it how they could perform any better. Your shield clearly separates the intake form other hotter air.
Best,
Sandro
So, I went autoxing last weekend with your airbox and other new goodies I installed days earlier, Power FC, AFX meter, and downpipe.
Installation was straightforward. Both Sat and Sun were hot days, in excess of 80 deg F
Charge temperature as measured by the PFC at the UIM was quite high, 77 C on avg with 10 psi boost on Saturday. Sunday, I dropped the boost one pound and got avg charge temperature of 64 C.
Now, this is the first time I could read charge temperature values because I didn't have the PFC before and honestly cannot tell how much charger air temperature would have been without your modified air box.
I bought a Coolingmist AI system which I will install hopefully in the near future which should help keeping temperature further down I hope.
And yes, between runs I sprayed well IC, pipes, UIM, radiator, and oil coolers (I wonder if I should use CO2 for that...)
Back to your box, I think it is a clever solution. I don't know how all the other expensive commercial products compare but I don't see it how they could perform any better. Your shield clearly separates the intake form other hotter air.
Best,
Sandro
Thanks for posting Sandro. I have not done any intake temp comparisons, but some others have:
Well, finally got to performance test this mod after tracking down a REALLY annoying boost leak. First off, intake temps are down according to the PFC Commander by a couple of degrees at least (even more on a run).
I tried the mod with the original intake both covered and uncovered. There wasn't much difference in temps but it definitely feels livelier with the original intake open too.
I love the noise of the stock BOV too. Much more subtle than the stupidly loud aftermarket ones and so infinitely cooler!
The car now pulls like a train too. Boost comes on harder and faster than it did previously.
All in all I'm happy to recommend this mod to anyone. It's so much better than spending a few hundred pounds on something that will just suck hot air into your engine.
thanks again Adam for a first class product.
Steve
I tried the mod with the original intake both covered and uncovered. There wasn't much difference in temps but it definitely feels livelier with the original intake open too.
I love the noise of the stock BOV too. Much more subtle than the stupidly loud aftermarket ones and so infinitely cooler!
The car now pulls like a train too. Boost comes on harder and faster than it did previously.
All in all I'm happy to recommend this mod to anyone. It's so much better than spending a few hundred pounds on something that will just suck hot air into your engine.
thanks again Adam for a first class product.
Steve
So I finally got the hell around to doing all this, been running it for about two months. To start, I left the support bracing (i.e. the "grids") in place and only cleared the holes. I removed the cross-box that feeds air from the IC duct to the front of the intake box, and sealed the IC duct and intake snorkle with race tape. Initial impressions were that the intake temps as measured right in front of the primary turbo inlet using a thermocouple and Fluke meter showed roughly the same temps as were found before the mod during regular cruising, as well as the same temperature rises when the fans were turned on to cool the engine. HOWEVER, the temp drop when going from a stoplight with the fans on to regular cruising was much quicker, and the temps actually dropped, rather than simply ratcheting higher as one drives, as was the case with the stock set up. What really was nce to see was the drop in temps at the intake elbow, again via thermocouple and Fluke meter, plumbed into the AWS intake pipe. Here, the temps were found to run ~5 C cooler on average, but the real nice thing was how quickly the intake temps get back down from any rise they incur, either through turbo usage or fans blowing on stock IC. This is of course due to the fact that the air duct is now forcing all the air through the IC, with none slipping by into the intake. Note also that I've removed the battery from the engine bay and blocked off the cooling duct for that as well. So all air goes through the IC.
I still see intake temps running between 25-30C on the freeway, with jumps to 45-50 with turbo usage. But they drop RIGHT back down again as soon as the heat load is removed. Driving with the fans on (really not needed on the freeway, just wanted to see...) gives ~35C or so, no real shift from normal cruising. Sitting and idling with the fans on still raises the intake temps to ~55C or so after a while, but they will cool down to the 35C or so when driving again. It now only requires a sustained 35mph or so to get this to happen, whereas it needed 40-45 mph before.
So I had to tear the turbos off due to doolant leak on the coolant return line (note to 'yall: replace the sealing copper washers EVERY time you loosen a banjo connection. They will NOT reseal with the old washer...), and decided to take adams advice and pull the bracing. It wasn't doing much anyway (box is **** for strong!).
I will tell you there is a MAJOR difference between leaving the bracings in and removing them. Whether this is turbulence related or just raw cross sectional intake area, there is DEFINATELY more power and faster spool with them removed.
So. Pull the grids, remove the cross pipe, and seal the IC duct and intake snorkle. I will also mention that I am running NO restrictions in my WG and TPCT lines (i.e. pills removed, though mine were actually restrictors drilled). I get 8.5psi on the primary to 4500, then 9psi to ~6000, then a slight fall off. Plenty for Seattle area traffic and COPS (thick these days...), and I can delay that turbo rebuild for a while longer...
Good product, and mine is especially good as it still retains the "inspected by" sticker.. a real "kick"
I still see intake temps running between 25-30C on the freeway, with jumps to 45-50 with turbo usage. But they drop RIGHT back down again as soon as the heat load is removed. Driving with the fans on (really not needed on the freeway, just wanted to see...) gives ~35C or so, no real shift from normal cruising. Sitting and idling with the fans on still raises the intake temps to ~55C or so after a while, but they will cool down to the 35C or so when driving again. It now only requires a sustained 35mph or so to get this to happen, whereas it needed 40-45 mph before.
So I had to tear the turbos off due to doolant leak on the coolant return line (note to 'yall: replace the sealing copper washers EVERY time you loosen a banjo connection. They will NOT reseal with the old washer...), and decided to take adams advice and pull the bracing. It wasn't doing much anyway (box is **** for strong!).
I will tell you there is a MAJOR difference between leaving the bracings in and removing them. Whether this is turbulence related or just raw cross sectional intake area, there is DEFINATELY more power and faster spool with them removed.
So. Pull the grids, remove the cross pipe, and seal the IC duct and intake snorkle. I will also mention that I am running NO restrictions in my WG and TPCT lines (i.e. pills removed, though mine were actually restrictors drilled). I get 8.5psi on the primary to 4500, then 9psi to ~6000, then a slight fall off. Plenty for Seattle area traffic and COPS (thick these days...), and I can delay that turbo rebuild for a while longer...
Good product, and mine is especially good as it still retains the "inspected by" sticker.. a real "kick"
10-15-08 | 08:12 AM
#219
Will work for 20b
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From: Between The Beach & "Race City", NORTH CAROLINA
Hey Adam I just want to touch base with you again seeing how you ask me to let you when I got your intake installed. I just did it. Sorry it took me so long to get my ecu tuned and get my idling problem (vacuum leak) fixed. But I love it. She flies through the gears especially 1st and 2nd. She is a little quieter. I have a 4.5 inch tip exhaust so you can barely tell. But the Acceleration is smoother now I know that. I didnt have any lag around 3.5-4k range at all. I love it. Thanks. By the way I got a boost gauge. The VDO 150-921. Its the one that has 30hg-20psi and -1.5bar-1.5bar displayed in it. I thought it looked the most stock gauge and fit well with the interior. And yes it has an amber LED light in it.
P.S. I was wondering I read some of post on this thread but not all. Has anyone tried maybe covering the cut away area with a wire mesh or something to keep rocks and etc from getting sucked in? Just wondering.
Ryan
P.S. I was wondering I read some of post on this thread but not all. Has anyone tried maybe covering the cut away area with a wire mesh or something to keep rocks and etc from getting sucked in? Just wondering.
Ryan
10-16-08 | 03:46 PM
#220
Thread Starter
Cheap Bastard
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 8,370
Likes: 50
From: San Luis Obispo, Ca
Hey Adam I just want to touch base with you again seeing how you ask me to let you when I got your intake installed. I just did it. Sorry it took me so long to get my ecu tuned and get my idling problem (vacuum leak) fixed. But I love it. She flies through the gears especially 1st and 2nd. She is a little quieter. I have a 4.5 inch tip exhaust so you can barely tell. But the Acceleration is smoother now I know that. I didnt have any lag around 3.5-4k range at all. I love it. Thanks. By the way I got a boost gauge. The VDO 150-921. Its the one that has 30hg-20psi and -1.5bar-1.5bar displayed in it. I thought it looked the most stock gauge and fit well with the interior. And yes it has an amber LED light in it.
P.S. I was wondering I read some of post on this thread but not all. Has anyone tried maybe covering the cut away area with a wire mesh or something to keep rocks and etc from getting sucked in? Just wondering.
Ryan
P.S. I was wondering I read some of post on this thread but not all. Has anyone tried maybe covering the cut away area with a wire mesh or something to keep rocks and etc from getting sucked in? Just wondering.
Ryan
I don't think that a screen is needed. That's what the filter is for. My feeling is that a screen will cause a restriction in airflow. The filter will keep everything out that needs to be kept out. You don't see people putting extra screening on open intakes. It just isn't needed
.
10-17-08 | 08:59 PM
#223
At any rate, I ran it both ways, with and with out some nylon screen. Bought the small roll at the hardware store. Easily cut and installed inside the box with silicone caulk. I'm in the mid-west and at certain times of the year grasshoppers, moths and various other bugs can be an issue. The screen stops the bigger ones and I don't believe it adds any significant restriction. No dyno runs, but I never sensed any and the K & N seemed to stay cleaner a little longer. FWIW.
01-05-09 | 09:03 PM
#224
Thanks for the mod Adam! I got it in the mail today, and I had some free time, and so I installed it! Taking apart my airbox I found out that it wasn't fastened properly, whoops. I was able to fit the shield with little effort. Drilling the hole in the aluminum and getting the bolt in was the most time consuming process. The stock airbox did not put up much of a fight to a drill, and filled it down smooth.
Driving it, I notice more of a growl (a good thing imo). A few of the intermittent problems and noises I was having seem to have gone away, mostly from the airbox not being secured. But the car does pull harder on the butt-dyno. Best $80 i've spent on the car yet!
Driving it, I notice more of a growl (a good thing imo). A few of the intermittent problems and noises I was having seem to have gone away, mostly from the airbox not being secured. But the car does pull harder on the butt-dyno. Best $80 i've spent on the car yet!