danewbern

So, I went about the fairly simple task of switching out the pulleys and my tensioner. After 2 weeks, my battery was dead (forgot to leave it on the tender). After I charge it up, I couldn't get any power to come on. Given I Had trouble with my relocation before, I pull out the battery and hooked it up in the engine compartment with a set of cables. The engine turns over but doesn't fire. I ended up killing the battey again in my attempts. So I hooked the car up the my F-150. Engine turns but doesn't fire.

I checked all the fuses in the block and they are all good. The 'main' fuse in the block looks ok and I assume if it was blown I wouldn't even get the car to turn on. What am I missing here?

Thanks,

Dan

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I assume you didn't mess with the crank pulley trigger wheel or the crank angle sensors?

If those are fine and the pulley is OK, you've got other electrical issues to sort out.

Do the other systems in the car work? Gauges seem to work, warning lights light up at key on, interior lights, etc.? Does the tach bounce as you crank the engine over?

Dale

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

+1 inspect crank angle sensors and crank trigger wheel. No spark can also be a a bad ignitor as well....

danewbern

I didn't mess with any sensors, at least I don't thin I did. When I was tightnening the bolts on the center pulley, the air wrench did turn it and the water pump a revolution or two. The warning lights do come on as though I am starting it normally. The tach does not bounce as if it's either not getting a spark or there is no fuel to fire.

What it the crank trigger wheel? is that the wheel that was behind the pulley?

It didn't match the bolt patter of my touge pulley so I did not put it back on. It looked like it was just a guard fo some sort. I looked up pic and it seemed unnecessary.

danewbern

Holy crap... I few searches and I think I know what my problem is. Try not to look away in disgust...

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

That wheel with tabs on it is required. About time you down load the manuals.
Compare stock pulleys and their alignment with your current setup.
It all has to come off.

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

Ding ding ding....That's your problem for sure haha.The trigger wheel is the wheel that sits behind the main pulleys. The trigger wheel will only bolt on in one direction, otherwise the bolt holes don't line up correctly.

Samito Built

iTrader: (38)

Lol

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

ROOKIE MOVE!

Ah well, we've all done something similar. It's called learning .

Just FYI, that's the crank trigger wheel. As the crank spins, the notches in the wheel go past the crank angle sensors which are magnetic pick ups bolted to the front cover. As the metal of the trigger wheel passes over the pick up, it interrupts the magnetic field of the pick up, sending a pulse back to the ECU. The ECU needs to know how fast the engine is spinning and what position it is at every instant to figure out when to fire the spark plugs and fuel injectors.

Dale

danewbern

Shocking, it works quite well when you put everything back on that is supposed to be there.


New oddity that will be eaiser to solve is that my ground on my relocated battery doesn't want to play nice anymore. I previously had it hooked to the body with a bolt under the bins. After that gave me trouble, I put in a new one to the pillar for the rear shocks and have been using that for 6 months. Now, it just don't like it. I can run a jiumper cable back to anywhere in the engine and its good though so at least I can get it started and moved to an easier work spot for that.

Thanks for the help guys.

Dan