jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

So I previously thought the injector was stuck open on the rear primary. I replaced both primaries with stock used ones I had along with orings/diffusers and the problem still occurs.
Here's what happens:

I started the car cold, idled good, rev'd nice, and all was well. I needed to recalibrate my wideband so I turned it off and did so. Went to turn the car back on, and it was running on one rotor, no smoke, just shaky, backfiring, sounded like a lawn mower, and would not stay running unless my foot was on the gas. I decided to leave it for a few days and then needed to move it last night. Fired her up and it was fine, running on both rotors, no problems. This isn't the first time its happened, some times it will be fine for weeks and then just randomly run on one rotor. When it happened, I took out the leading plugs and they seemed dry.
I don't have a compression tester, but would bad compression lead to something that happens so randomly? It doesn't matter if it's hot or cold either.

Here's what I've done:

-replaced primary injectors, orings, diffusers
-swapped plug wires
-re-wired injector wiring
-checked for spark

My specs are stock 13B-REW, non-sequential twin, Haltech E8, 550cc/1600cc fuel system, walbro pump.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Have you put fresh plugs in? Sometimes that will happen if you run colder plugs and start the car briefly, you foul a plug and it will run on one rotor until it cleans up.

Dale

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

When it first happened, I drove it home from work, parked it for the night, started it up the next morning and it ran on one rotor. I left it for 3 days, fired up and ran great for 3 weeks.

I tried different plugs after doing a deflood procedure, but it continued to happen. I was driving the car for 3 months no problems. Didn't change anything when it started happening.

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

Maybe ignition is going in and out...stock ecu?

RX72NR

iTrader: (1)

Could be sticking seals due to carbon build up, rear rotor?

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Yeah rear rotor, what would you recommend for it?

Also, its a haltech e8, and I was starting to think a bad leading coil

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if it's an original engine it sounds like the beginning of a coolant seal failure. don't rely on the car to smoke much to be an indicator of faulty coolant seals, some coolants do not have much of an odor or leave excessive smoke.

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

Sounds to me like a intermittent problem with a sensor feeding bad signals to the ECU and running super rich. I once had a similar problem with the water thermosensor that was heat related, worth checking out...

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Yeah for sure, I'm willing to check everything at this point.

As for it being a coolant seal failure, wouldn't my car over heat? The thing I don't get is it will be fine and then I'll drive it for a week and then randomly it will happen (going into a parking lot, or even at a stop light). I can always do a champagne test though

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if it starts after the engine is running then likely not a coolant seal, just if you shut the car off after warming it up or starting it when cold it runs on one rotor then clears out after a few minutes of run time.

sounds like you have a faulty connection at one of your primary injectors, bad clip or corroded pin in the connector.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

What resistance in ohms should I be seeing for the injector clips?

And really, I'm appreciating all the help, this should make things get fixed quick!

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i would start by simply checking the connectors for pushed in pins or corrosion on either the injector terminals or inside the pins. the resistance should only be about 100ohms max(good connections usually will read only a few ohms, generally it is more or less 3-4ohms) for the length of wire from end to end from the EGI fuse to the one side and from the other to the ECU. the EGI fuse runs through the main relay though, i can't recall which connector it would be in there.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Well this is a weird swap so all my wiring isn't stock. My haltechs harness has an injector fuse in the fuse box so what would be the best way to check? Red in the injector plug and the black to a suitable ground?
I've never checked resistance of a whole wire, just a glow plug haha

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

more than likely your red is the power wire which gets it's power from your injector fuse, check the resistance from the injector side of that fuse plug to your injector clip. the black is likely the driver side of the circuit which will intermittently get grounded by the ECU, so you'd have to disconnect your ECU plug and check resistance across that circuit where your injector wires lead off to.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Started the care and started feeling and squeezing all the injector wiring and then heard an arcing sound, so I immediately turned the car off, unwrapped all the injector wiring to find a clustered mess for the power supply lines. Redid all those along with the IAT sensor and TPS.
Ran it quite long, restarted it at least 10 times, no issues other than my cracked heater core so far (haha).
Im crossing my fingers it's fixed though!