For a long time now I've been looking for an FD to put a built NA 13B into.

Why? Fun... and to **** people off lol.

Do say FC 13B's bolt to FD transmissions? Do FC engine/tranny bolt to FD driveshaft? Obviously it wouldn't be a stock ragged out 13B it'd have quite a bit of work done to it and be a track day car or road race depending on if I want to fully cage it.

Any input other then stupid idea?

 

well since you are acknowledging that there will be haters, I will leave that alone. I'm sure you're aware that the fuel injected ones had better intake manifolds and that's partly why they made more power up top.

Are you going to take an REW and make it carb or are you going to try and swap an FC engine into it? It's going to be a little tricky no matter what you do. The REW front cover wont work because you can't install a distributor to it, and if you try to swap in an older front cover you may have to modify the oil pan. But a non turbo FC engine has different motor mounts and a different clutch that won't bolt to an FD tranny.

If it were me I would try to build an n/a REW. Use s5 9.7:1 rotors and a 4 port carb manifold with an older front cover (not sure which one would be best, 12A?) You'd probably have to port match the carb manifold to the REW irons.



http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=16494

 

If you wanna **** people off AND go fast stick a V8 in it....

 

More specifically a 4v Ford motor. Has anybody even done that? I see LSx swaps all the time, but never a cobra motor?

 

RB25 would do some damage....

Peripheral port a 13B would be the only way it would have decent power... anything else would just be disappointing...Buuuut

20B NA would be an excellent build.

 

the only problem with NA is how loud they are. so if you want power, it wouldnt be very streetable. th FD is a lot heavier than a 1st gen.

but a streetable sized PP with a 50mm or bigger webbers could get you decent power. about what the stock FD would put out with an exhaust and tune.

 

The DOHC heads make the engine harder to fit. Pull the valve cover off a DOHC motor and pull the valve cover off a pushrod motor and it will make more sense.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone.

Not really looking to go ***** out fast just a fun car and I love FD looks.

 

you do know that FD body plus powerful NA equal over $20k easily right?

 

figure 160-190whp on a non turbo engine with a street port and EFI. bridge ported carb might achieve similar numbers. On my old series 4 non turbo EFI engine I did 172 to the wheels with full exhaust, street port, and a number of other little mods. If I had a series 5 intake manifold I probably would've gotten another 10 or 15whp and a wider powerband. You can get over 200 to the wheels but you have to do everything right.

 

Figured it had to do with that. Oh well, worth a shot haha

 

Yeah the Cobra engines a great one, but the heads make it WIDEEEEEE!

 

People have ran the 13B-REW in all motor form in an FD.

Putting an FC engine is sort of stupid.

 

It's not stupid, it's just going to take more work. The s5 engine is actually designed to be n/a. It's much better than the FD engine for n/a applications because of the higher compression plus the better intake manifold and port design.

 

I can understand wanting the FD chassis with a NA motor. But a 2 rotor non-turbo FD will have no torque and very low power. Just seems like it wouldn't be fun to drive at all. I don't know what the op's budget is but an NA 20b motor would not only make enough power to enjoy the car but it would also sound great. Or just put a stock ls1/t56 in it....

 

if you want an n/a 2 rotor you might as well buy an 89-91 non turbo car for $1500, port the motor and gut it. You could have it down to 2500lbs easy with like 170 to the wheels. It'd be good for road racing and a lot cheaper than the FD chassis.