Car shuts off when coming to a stop because of a bouncy idle.
#1
Car shuts off when coming to a stop because of a bouncy idle.
Well this is starting to drive me nuts. My car never use to do it till a few days ago. When I am coming up to a stop the car just shuts off. The whenever it doesnt shut off the idle bounces up and down between 300 rpm and 1100rpm then after a few seconds it stops and stays steady. No issues while driving or start ups, vacuum is at avg 23-18.
Searched and found a lot of good info on this thread but I am running a electromotive TEC3
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+control+valve
Searched and found a lot of good info on this thread but I am running a electromotive TEC3
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+control+valve
Last edited by Alex Rodriguez; 07-01-10 at 04:28 PM.
#2
I have the same issue now that the weather is warmer. If you figured it out, let me know.
Well this is starting to drive me nuts. My car never use to do it till a few days ago. When I am coming up to a stop the car just shuts off. The whenever it doesnt shut off the idle bounces up and down between 300 rpm and 1100rpm then after a few seconds it stops and stays steady. No issues while driving or start ups, vacuum is at avg 23-18.
Searched and found a lot of good info on this thread but I am running a electromotive TEC3
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+control+valve
Searched and found a lot of good info on this thread but I am running a electromotive TEC3
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+control+valve
#3
On a car with the PFC or stock ECU with these symptoms, the first thing we check is the clutch switch at the pedal. With the tec3 I do not believe this even comes into play.
You may want to check the dash pot on the thottlebody, if the piston is crushed in, it will allow the TB plates to slam shut too quickly and cause similar issues.
You may want to check the dash pot on the thottlebody, if the piston is crushed in, it will allow the TB plates to slam shut too quickly and cause similar issues.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 07-03-10 at 08:01 AM. Reason: More info
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (16)
i have something very similar except i have a wideband to monitor. is it possible to run so rich that the car floods out while idle? i see as low as 10.2 when i idle (and i think sometimes even lower than 10 but my wideband floors at 10afr...) perhaps a tune is needed?
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#10
The starter cut switch is on the floor. The one up in the pedal assembly under the dash, is the one that is typically responsible for stalling issues.
However, like I said previously, I do not think it comes into play with the Tec3. I know it does nothing with the Microtech and Haltech. With your car I would be looking at the dash pot on the throttle body
However, like I said previously, I do not think it comes into play with the Tec3. I know it does nothing with the Microtech and Haltech. With your car I would be looking at the dash pot on the throttle body
#11
Banzai thanks for the help man
awsome i will try this today
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=dash+pot
So i went to look at the dash pot and the gap between the pots white tip and the bracket arm is about as wide as two credit cards width. Thats with the car turned off. And by the looks of of the white tip its really dirty and gunky so I will get some cleaner and blast it out of there . I will keep you guys updated.
Another question do you think I will have to recalibrate mines?
awsome i will try this today
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=dash+pot
So i went to look at the dash pot and the gap between the pots white tip and the bracket arm is about as wide as two credit cards width. Thats with the car turned off. And by the looks of of the white tip its really dirty and gunky so I will get some cleaner and blast it out of there . I will keep you guys updated.
Another question do you think I will have to recalibrate mines?
Last edited by Alex Rodriguez; 07-04-10 at 12:09 PM.
#17
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YMMV but everytime I have a bouncy or surging idle it turns out to be my TPS (Throttle Postiion Sensor). Mine slips out of spec pretty easily, but once I adjust it back to the factory range my idle is fine again.
#18
Just want to make sure I did this right so I had my wife hold the rpms at 2800 Rpms then I adjusted the dashpot till it touched the bracket then I secured it.before all that I removed it from the car and cleaned the white part with carb cleaner now it goes in hard and springs out fast.
#19
Turd Ferguson
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sounds like you have it. Keep in mind that that is the factory stock rpm that it should engage. you might need to adjust your to suit your application. that being said, it could turn out that its not the dashpot at all.... don't we just love FD tuning?!
For future searchers since RenoCYM brought it up, the TPS range on the PFC is:
VTA1: closed 0.10 to 0.70. open 4.2 to 4.6.
VTA2: closed 0.75 to 1.25. open 4.8 to 5.0.
For future searchers since RenoCYM brought it up, the TPS range on the PFC is:
VTA1: closed 0.10 to 0.70. open 4.2 to 4.6.
VTA2: closed 0.75 to 1.25. open 4.8 to 5.0.
#22
Ok after searching on how to check the tps with a voltmeter I got my numbers. I still dont know if they are good or not all I have is what the fsm says it should be at and how to do it. I used the diagnosis ground because it was easier to stick the ground stick.
- First one I did was the 2nd from the top (green wire with red strip), this goes to the 3F ECU
1.25 closed and wide open throttle 4.93
-Second one I did was Bottom (black wire with green strip), this goes to the 3G ECU
.54 closed and wide open throttle 4.20
What do you think?
- First one I did was the 2nd from the top (green wire with red strip), this goes to the 3F ECU
1.25 closed and wide open throttle 4.93
-Second one I did was Bottom (black wire with green strip), this goes to the 3G ECU
.54 closed and wide open throttle 4.20
What do you think?