bushing question
#26
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Im probably just going to go through with it anyway, my car goes for a tune up once a month, so ill just have them re-lube the bushings while its there... if they really blow ill just take em out. No biggie!
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#27
Super Snuggles
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After installing the Nylon bushing in the suspension component, without the stainless center pin inserted, a hole is drilled through the suspension component and the body of the bushing to the center hole.
Location is entirely up to the preference of the owner, but it should not put the fitting in a position in which it will come into contact with anything else through the entirety of the suspension's travel, and should (for ease of access) be located somewhere that it can be reached with the tires still on the car, so the suspension can be re-lubed as easily as possible.
After cleaning any metal or Nylon shavings from the hole, the hole is tapped with threads and a threaded Zerk fitting (shown above) is screwed into place. A little thread locking compound on the threads isn't a bad idea, but not absolutely necessary. Zerk fittings are available from McMaster-Carr, and they even offer a tool for threading and installing the fittings.
After installing the Zerk fitting, you can pump grease through the fitting to ensure that it works, and smear the inside surface of the center hole of the Nylon bushing with the lubricant. Then insert the stainless center pin, and you're ready to re-install the suspension component, assuming all new bushings have been installed.
Once on the car, you can give the Zerk fitting another shot of grease with a grease gun, and cycle the suspension component through its motion to make sure that everything is lubricated properly. Continue to the next component, and repeat the process. The Zerk fittings can be protected from road debris with snap-on plastic caps, also available from McMaster-Carr. (PN 1098K19)
![](http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/gfx/large/1098kp1l.gif)
When all components are on the car, you should be able to re-lubricate the suspension simply by jacking up the front or rear of the car and sliding underneath if the fittings have been located properly. A grease gun with a flexible neck is ideal, so that you can thread it through the suspension to the fitting location.
![](http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/gfx/large/1190kp2l.gif)
Any questions?
Location is entirely up to the preference of the owner, but it should not put the fitting in a position in which it will come into contact with anything else through the entirety of the suspension's travel, and should (for ease of access) be located somewhere that it can be reached with the tires still on the car, so the suspension can be re-lubed as easily as possible.
After cleaning any metal or Nylon shavings from the hole, the hole is tapped with threads and a threaded Zerk fitting (shown above) is screwed into place. A little thread locking compound on the threads isn't a bad idea, but not absolutely necessary. Zerk fittings are available from McMaster-Carr, and they even offer a tool for threading and installing the fittings.
After installing the Zerk fitting, you can pump grease through the fitting to ensure that it works, and smear the inside surface of the center hole of the Nylon bushing with the lubricant. Then insert the stainless center pin, and you're ready to re-install the suspension component, assuming all new bushings have been installed.
Once on the car, you can give the Zerk fitting another shot of grease with a grease gun, and cycle the suspension component through its motion to make sure that everything is lubricated properly. Continue to the next component, and repeat the process. The Zerk fittings can be protected from road debris with snap-on plastic caps, also available from McMaster-Carr. (PN 1098K19)
![](http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/gfx/large/1098kp1l.gif)
When all components are on the car, you should be able to re-lubricate the suspension simply by jacking up the front or rear of the car and sliding underneath if the fittings have been located properly. A grease gun with a flexible neck is ideal, so that you can thread it through the suspension to the fitting location.
![](http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/gfx/large/1190kp2l.gif)
Any questions?
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#28
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good idea....I did the same thing with my motocross bike and it worked great (I did not use nylon bushings)
however, won't drilling weaken the body of the bushing to some degree? is there any chance that hairline cracks could form?
however, won't drilling weaken the body of the bushing to some degree? is there any chance that hairline cracks could form?
#29
Super Snuggles
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Originally posted by yzf-r1
however, won't drilling weaken the body of the bushing to some degree? is there any chance that hairline cracks could form?
however, won't drilling weaken the body of the bushing to some degree? is there any chance that hairline cracks could form?
#30
Rotary Enthusiast
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jimlab, which grease do you prefer to use in the bushing?
I used antiseize compound from pepboys in my bushings, and now they are beginning to squeak, I wonder if the compound is wearing off.
Thanks,
Randy
I used antiseize compound from pepboys in my bushings, and now they are beginning to squeak, I wonder if the compound is wearing off.
Thanks,
Randy
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