Break IN Myth.... first milles on Highway, city, or itīs the same..
07-03-06 | 04:36 PM
#26
Quoted from Mazda 1997 Competition Parts Catalog:
"Engine Break-in Procedures
A proper and careful break-in period for a newly rebuilt engine is extremely important. The break-in procedure listed on the following page may seem excessive. However, an engine that has been broken in properly will see more power across the engine's rpm range and longer service life than a comparable engine that has not. If using old bearings, please note the difference in hours and mileage requirements for the break-in period.
When breaking in any engine 9race or stock), use a low ash content, mineral-based racing oil (20w or 30w). After the break-in period, change to a mineral or synthetic racing oil (30w or 40w).
"Race Engine Break-In
Using a dynometer for break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a "Dyno," use the mileage break=in figure on the next page. The engine should be run at idle for 30-45 min. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 1000 miles (depending on use of new or old bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.
From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles, we recommend only short bursts of power approaching redline for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in is now complete."
Last edited by Julian; 07-03-06 at 04:39 PM.
07-03-06 | 08:49 PM
#27
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From: NC
no question the above method "works", but I don't think it's the best method for overall street engine longevity
race engines are torn down frequently anyway, so longevity of the parts is not an issue
race engines are torn down frequently anyway, so longevity of the parts is not an issue
07-04-06 | 02:25 AM
#28
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
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From: Pasadena, CA
Originally Posted by Improved FD
why would Amsoil be biased about break-in procedures, what do they have to gain?
I'd look at anything on a manufacturer's website with a grain of salt...
07-04-06 | 02:27 AM
#29
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From: NC
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
From my discussions w/ Jimlab...
"The typical recommended break-in procedure is to vary rpm, always with light to medium throttle, for the first 500-1,000 miles, and change the oil at the same interval to minimize damage by machining or resurfacing debris. You should not just take a long trip and keep the engine in one gear for hundreds of miles, in other words, like Mark says. Normal "street" operation is better, where you'd be accelerating lightly through the first few gears, slowing down, idling, starting out again, etc. but you can vary rpm by changing gears periodically if your only choice is a highway break in. "
"The typical recommended break-in procedure is to vary rpm, always with light to medium throttle, for the first 500-1,000 miles, and change the oil at the same interval to minimize damage by machining or resurfacing debris. You should not just take a long trip and keep the engine in one gear for hundreds of miles, in other words, like Mark says. Normal "street" operation is better, where you'd be accelerating lightly through the first few gears, slowing down, idling, starting out again, etc. but you can vary rpm by changing gears periodically if your only choice is a highway break in. "
07-04-06 | 02:30 AM
#30
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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From: NC
Originally Posted by Kento
I wouldn't say that they're they're trying to gain anything on their break-in procedure page, but it's easy to make the viewer think that their website is posting the absolute truth by crowding it with all sorts of graphs and tech-speak. I'm not saying that the website is rife with BS, but there is an obvious bias towards their products in the comparisons they make (which, well, is natural).
I'd look at anything on a manufacturer's website with a grain of salt...
I'd look at anything on a manufacturer's website with a grain of salt...
07-04-06 | 02:41 AM
#31
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Pasadena, CA
Originally Posted by Improved FD
agreed, but apparently they have done some level of research on various break-in procedures...nobody here can say that, and I'm not sure how many detailed studies have been done on the topic at all...ASME perhaps?
07-04-06 | 11:32 AM
#32
Originally Posted by adam c
I would contact your engine builder for specific break in instructions. Different engines will require different break in procedures.
Yep! Example, rebuilt engines with used bearings won't need much break-in compared to an engine with new bearings. And engine rebuilt with used bearings could be driven "almost" normally from day one while only needing time to seat any new internal seals and time to build up compression.
07-04-06 | 04:58 PM
#33
"Works" It is Mazda's own recomendations whether for race or street. By the way, a race engine is stressed more in the 24 hours LeMan than a normal street life of an engine .. I think they aim for longevity and they are the only Japanese engine to have won LeMan.
07-04-06 | 07:07 PM
#35
Originally Posted by Improved FD
"race" break-in...did you read you own post?
Originally Posted by Julian
I think they aim for longevity and they are the only Japanese engine to have won LeMan.
07-04-06 | 07:33 PM
#36
2/4 wheel cornering fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Pasadena, CA
Originally Posted by Julian
I am sorry, but a software engineer who gave up on the rotary is not the worlds expert.
07-07-06 | 09:23 AM
#37
Sensory Experience
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From: MD
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
So my advice? Make it your daily driver for a few days...some traffic, some slow areas, some highway. That'll break it in perfectly 
~Ramy
~Ramy
07-08-06 | 03:12 AM
#39
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From: NC
Originally Posted by Shinobi-X
I've came to the same conclusion myself, and it seems to have worked fine in practice thus far. As usual though, you'll find a host of different opinions on how to properly break in an engine, but I find this method to be appropriate.
it's a delicate balance, you don't want to load too much heat into the engine too early, but you also want to put the engine under some stress with short bursts of throttle, and then let it cool off
Last edited by Improved FD; 07-08-06 at 03:16 AM.
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