DamonB

I have new rotors to put on and can't get those two friggin screws out.

I first tried the impact driver. Broke the bit before it came loose.

Bought another. Broke the bit again.

Bought a #3 phillips to fit on my ratchet. Twisted the thing in half.

Bought a HARDENED #3 phillips to fit on my ratchet. Twisted IT in half.

I am going to drill the fu*kers out. Why do I need them anyway? The wheel holds the rotor on.

ejmack1

Someone please help, i am about to do the same thing.....

black99

It is ok to drill them out, they are just used to hold the rotor snug while you put the caliper/and wheel on.. I had the same problem when putting my brembo's on, I got the screws out of one of my sides fine, but had to drill the other side out. I have had mine on for about a month now, no problems. So drill them out, just line up the holes when you put the rotor back on(like you were going to be putting the screws back in). And then hold it as snug as possible and then put the caliper/and wheel on. Over time they will get stuck on by rust just like your old ones did anyways. So without the screws and with the caliper on they aren't going anywhere..

JaySpec7

I had the same problem... I borrowed a hand held impact tool.. it was soo easy.. 1 bang and it came loose.. go to SEARS, they have it there..

DamonB

That was the first thing I tried; an impact tool. The screws are so stuck the bits broke before the screws loosened.

black99

Yeah even with the impact driver , you still have a good chance of rounding out the screws too...

Dimcorner

Count = 0
While count <> 3
SoakScrewfor10min(WD40)
Putscrewdriveronscrewandtapwithhammer
Count=count+1
wend

88and93

First of all you should start out with a real penetrating oil like Kroil, not something like WD-40. Drill them out if you have to now and coat the new ones with anti-seize compound. Use it in the hub and wheel studs and you will never have any problems in the future. Kroil and anti-seize are a great asset to auto repair/maintenance.

KZ1

did you try a manual impact driver, often they re more robost, I beat the **** out of mine with a sledge hammer to get mine off.

MPython

iTrader: (1)

I agree with 88and93. Use real penetrating oil! That made a big difference for me. I also anti-seized the lugs. Those screws do help get the rear rotors off. They aren't required, but it is a plus. I still have mine, as my problems weren't so bad.

I ended up installing slotted Brembo (?) rotors that I got from KVR Performance. I also got them cryogenically tempered to make them last longer. They were supposed to be cadmium plated to prevent rust, at least on the hat, but that didn't work too well. Now I've got ugly rusted hats. Oh well I guess.

Jeff
'93 VR R1
mostly stock

joemomma

I just did mine yesterday. I tried all of the above except drilling and what finally did it was an air impact wrench with a big phillips head screwdriver fit into a 1inch socket. Sometimes you have to get creative.

RonKMiller

Try heating the area around the screws with a propane torch gently and slowly. If not, drill em' and get some easy outs at the local hardware store. If you want to really get creative you can soak them for a couple of days with the Kroil, take a Dremel tool and cut new slots in the top of the screw with a cut off wheel, then wack it good with the impact driver and a minimum five pound hammer. Or just beat the **** out of the car with the hammer. The screws will still be stuck but you'll fell much better.

MPython

iTrader: (1)

Ron... yes on the heat! I forgot I used a heat gun too. Man mine my memory sucks. OK, I used penetrating oil, a heat gun, and an impact screwdriver, in that order.

Jeff

RonKMiller

Dood: use the torch - one hell of lot hotter than a heat gun on high. You can also shoot some butane lighter fluid at the screw right after you heat it with the torch but damn, be careful! You are trying to expand the metal around the screw and shrink the screw at the same time. Sounds nuts but I've done it before.
Like I said, be freakin' careful mixing butane and flame sources or else you get

jeffrored92

I'm planning on painting my calipers and most likely removing my rotors to give them a bit of a clean. What I'm trying to find out is what an Impact Tool/Impact Driver is. To me it sounds the same as a Hammer Drill, just with a screwdriver bit rather than a drill bit.

This be right?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00947641000

bee

You might consider going to a brake shop.

An impact wrench is the same thing any old tire shop uses to get lug nuts off. Surely you have herd the loud *** bzzz, bzzz sound coming from a shop?

bee

The link master strikes again.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

That tool saved my *** when removing the solenoid rack screws also.

Dave

impactwrench

No, it's a hand held tool, about 1.5" dia.x 6" long that you can fit sockets or screwdriver bits on the end facing away from you and hammer on the end facing you. The internals of it cause a high torque twisting of the bits when you hit it. The turning motion as you hit it also buries the bit with a lot more force than you could by simply pushing on it

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Soak with PB blaster

Chisel and hammer

Just bang the edges in the loose direction

alberto_mg

^^ didn't work for me

dpeak

After you have broken all of your screwdriver bits, ran out out of propane and kroil, but before you try a left hend drill bit....go to your Snap-On man and buy a good set of screwdrivers. They have a hex at the base of the shank where you can put a wrench so you can get an *** load of leverage. Also, they have ribs on the bit to help it bite into the screw and prevent caming it out. My P3 snap on withstood me putting all of my weight on it while using a doubled wrench setup(about 18 inches) to break loose a door post screw. I will never, ever, ever buy a different brand of screwdriver after using Snap-Ons. Get the soft grips, your hands will never get tired while using them. Some people complain about the price but if you had them right now you would have saved a lot of time breaking other stuff and more on the job at hand.

zullo

Unfortunately torching it doesn't help much - the rotor is designed to be a big heat sink and you'll burn through a tank of propane before you get anything very hot on there.

If you have access to air tools attach a large phillips head bit to your impact gun. Lean on it and give it a couple shots. Otherwise an impact driver and a sledge. Typical claw hammer won't do it.

jeffrored92

OK cheers for the info guys.

Unfortunately being in Aus some of the particular products you guys have are rather hard to find. I'll cruise past some Auto parts stores and see what I can dig up.

For now, I might see if I can't give the rotors a seeing to while on the car to remove the small amount of rust that is there.