Brake bleeding q's
#1
Brake bleeding q's
Well, after about two weeks, im finally ready to get my brake system back together.
I got x drilled and slotted rotors all aropund, painted my calipers, SS brake lines and HPS pads.
MY questions is, is that I was told that the brake bleeders brake off real easily causing teh whole caliper to have to be replaced. Has anyone ever run into this ? or have any advice on how to NOT brake these bleeders?
Steve
I got x drilled and slotted rotors all aropund, painted my calipers, SS brake lines and HPS pads.
MY questions is, is that I was told that the brake bleeders brake off real easily causing teh whole caliper to have to be replaced. Has anyone ever run into this ? or have any advice on how to NOT brake these bleeders?
Steve
#2
Just don't torque them too hard. Tighten the bleeders down until you feel a bit of resistance, and then maybe just a TEENY bit more. If you crank on it, then yes you'll break them.
Have you thought about getting speedbleeders? Makes brake bleeding a 1 man operation.
As for bleeding, it works the same as any car. You'll need one person to open the valves, and one person to pump the brakes.
Open valve, push brake pedal down, close valve, let brake back pedal up. Repeat until there are no more bubbles in system. And make sure you don't let the level get too low in the reservoir.
With speedbleeders since there's a one way valve built into the bleeder to make sure fluid/air can escape when pushing down on the pedal, but no air can get sucked back into the lines when letting up on the pedal.
Have you thought about getting speedbleeders? Makes brake bleeding a 1 man operation.
As for bleeding, it works the same as any car. You'll need one person to open the valves, and one person to pump the brakes.
Open valve, push brake pedal down, close valve, let brake back pedal up. Repeat until there are no more bubbles in system. And make sure you don't let the level get too low in the reservoir.
With speedbleeders since there's a one way valve built into the bleeder to make sure fluid/air can escape when pushing down on the pedal, but no air can get sucked back into the lines when letting up on the pedal.
#4
Just did it this weekend with the girlfriend. New meaning for the down.... up..... down.... up..... thingie!!
Just snug the valves down gently, and if it isn't loosening up the first, MAKE SURE you are actually turning it the right way. Easy to get mixed up as to rightie tightie under there...
I replaced the whole fluid. The stuff coming out the front was BLACK. Rediculous the lack of care this thing got before I bought it!!!
Just snug the valves down gently, and if it isn't loosening up the first, MAKE SURE you are actually turning it the right way. Easy to get mixed up as to rightie tightie under there...
I replaced the whole fluid. The stuff coming out the front was BLACK. Rediculous the lack of care this thing got before I bought it!!!
#5
Speed Bleeders...
While you're at it...why don't you go ahead and put some speed bleeders on there?
When I upgraded I went ahead and added the speed bleeders - definitely a great investment.....and cheap too.
Any other speed bleeder users care to comment on this?
GEB.
When I upgraded I went ahead and added the speed bleeders - definitely a great investment.....and cheap too.
Any other speed bleeder users care to comment on this?
GEB.
#6
Taking the bleeders out isn't a problem unless the PO cranked the **** out of them.
Speed bleeder recommends something like 12 inch pounds torque. My wrench doesn't go that low, so I just turn them until i feel them start to snug, then another 1/4 turn.
I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. They are only what $3 bucks a piece? IMO there is no excuse not to have them, esp. if you ever track the car.
Speed bleeder recommends something like 12 inch pounds torque. My wrench doesn't go that low, so I just turn them until i feel them start to snug, then another 1/4 turn.
I highly recommend Speed Bleeders. They are only what $3 bucks a piece? IMO there is no excuse not to have them, esp. if you ever track the car.
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#8
When you bleed the brakes yo should bleed the caliper furthest from the master to the nearnest so right rear, right left, front right then front left. I think your talking about a vac bleeder, i have a pressure bleeder at work and i have an attachment that screws onto the master cylinder, i can bleed my brakes in less than 5 minuets. this attachment also fits the clutch master cylinder.
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