jbtam99

Anyone have any suggestions for upgrading my gummed up fuel line? I really need new line, an rrfpr and relocated filter. Anyone done this that can tell me how much line and which fittings I need? and a suggestion on the filter would be good too.

Thanks in advance!
John
'93 Base

jspecracer7

You'll need -6 steel braided hose and a bunch of AN fittings. For EVERYTHING, you'll need to spend about $350 with a rrfpr, fuel filter, -6 steel braided hose, all AN fittings.

I just put my order into www.summitracing.com ... Just FYI, summit doesn't have the earl's -6 fuel filter's in stock right now. Go to www.jegs.com and they'll have it(I just placed my order with them yesterday )

Give me a second and I'll post up what I needed. Should be the same as what you'll need.

jbtam99

sounds good, thanks!

duboisr

Garfinkle made bigger lines out of steel tubing and put the filter on the rear end subframe ,he changed the line from the pump in side the tank to the fuel rail .The cost was about $25 .He used the stock line as the pattern ,it is in the stock location.

jspecracer7

AEI-13109 -- AEROMOTIVE FUEL PRESSURE REG. $129.95 X 1
AER-FCM2004 -- -6 TO 1/4 NPT 90' FITTING $4.50 X 4
AER-FCM2052 -- -6 MALE FLAIR FITTING $4.25 X 3
NOS-15906 -- EFI FUEL PRESSURE GUAGE $34.50 X 1
AER-FCA0610 -- 10 FT -6 HOSE $42.95 X 1
AER-FCM1012 -- -6 HOSE END FITTINGS STRAIGHT $5.95 X 7
AER-FCM4032 -- -6 90' HOSE END FITTING $13.95 X 2
AER-FCM3724 -- -6 plug with 0-ring $4.50 X 1
EAR-230206 -- EARLS FUEL FILTER $29.39 X 1

From Jegs, this is the part number:

Item# = 361-230106 Earl's In-Line Fuel Filter AN Size: -6 Male $27.99

With this setup, you will need to tap both the primary and secondary rails to fit the -6 fittings. Once I get all my stuff, I will probably be posting a pictoral or some type of write-up to help forum members who are interested in doing this.

Hope I was of some help.

jbtam99

That enough hose length? seems like it's a little short...

jspecracer7

This is using the stock metal lines going to the front.

jbtam99

ahh, ok... that makes sense then... Thanks for the info!

hapa

Jspec, please post those pictures and your findings when you are done. I'd appreciate the visual. Sounds like an excellent fuel project.

eric

fcturbo2

Im doing the same set-up. It cost me 85 bucks for 4 SS lines. Pretty expensive but it looks good.

jspecracer7

No problemo! I was planning on doing that anyways, but it seems as if there's a bit of forum interest on the steel braided fuel lines

skunks

I was thinking of this but the cost was kinda high, in anycase, i would personnaly put in new lines and not reuse the old ones. I would think that they would be as gummed up as the old rubber lines.

jbtam99

yeah, I guess I'm going to have to lift the car and measure out the whole line to figure out how much I need though. I'm thinking it'll be a whole lot nicer to deal with as time goes by too.

Wade

iTrader: (1)

I ran braided 6AM from inside the tank to a K&N near the brake booster, to the rails and an aftermarket regulator, then to the stock return line. From memory, it took exactly 10" from the tank to the fuel filter, then less than 10" for the rest (I think about 6 ft).

Cost about $350 and totally wasn't worth the effort IMO. This is one thing I would definitely skip if I were doing it all over. Only benefit it is is a little easier to work on the car once this is done.

Wade

shawnk

I am in the middle of this project right now and I would have to agree that custom stainless hose making is a pain. The biggest complaint that I have about it is when trying to terminate with the hose end fittings (the ones that have the red screw piece over the blue tube that fit into the hose). The red piece will not fit over the stainless braid. Trimming back the braid is not really an option either as it ends up being a very weak connection. Maybe if someone could shed some light on how to do that? I am happy that I rerouted the lines in back and relocated the filter to the front so I won't ever have to be under that axle trying to work on filter/fuel lines again but the jury is still out on the stainless part up front. Oh and this project is up to about $375 for me. Another thing I ran into was the insulators (flat rubber ring) between the primary fuel rail and engine were worn out. They still held a vacuum but were frayed and dry rotted so I had to order new ones before I put it back together. So if you are planning to have this done in a weekend make sure you have those on hand. They are like $10 total from mazda so I would have much rather had them on hand and not used them then to have to wait a week to finish the project (as they are not kept on hand very many places so special order is required - I dont have the part number on hand but can get it if anyone needs).

Shawn

jspecracer7

I'm doing this because I'm going big single very soon and plan to make it "easier" for me to pull my fuel system and simplify it a bit. What is the part number for the rubber "O" ring (the insulators) for the primary fuel rail? I'll be getting my order from summit real soon so I'll need to go ahead and order them from Mazda now..

Thanks!

hapa

Jspec, I think you mean the insulators that sit below the primary injector housing right? If so the part # is N3A1-13-2570. If your looking for the injector O-rings there are 5 different part numbers.

eric

jspecracer7

Eric,

Yeah, sorry I didn't clarify. That's what I was looking for...

...funny thing is I have the parts catalog in acrobat reader format...just that I was too lazy to look

Thanks!

Van

mjw

iTrader: (1)

The best and easiest way to do this cheaply is with a pair of big-a** bolt/lock cutters from a hardware store, mine have 2' handles. I have use mine on -12AN hose and it cuts awesome, perfect cut every time and doesn't fray the ends of the hose. Then I insert an appropriately sized socket in a vise, put the hose end fitting in the socket, and jam the SS hose into the fitting. When you insert the other end of the fitting be sure and use some Earls lube or equivalent to help thread the piece together. HTH.

Matt

jbtam99

Ok... time for me to ensure that I'm thinking right... on the FPR, the inlets are the sides, and the return is on the bottom, correct? Just being paranoid, I do not want to have to fight with this more than I have to. It's bad enough that I'm having to buy two new injectors... but... at least I found out why they were leaking.

shawnk

On the FPR I have the 2 sides are inlet and the bottom is return. However if you install this behind your fuel rails (return side) in place of the stock regulator you will need to cap one of the inlets.

jbtam99

ok... that's what I thought... Just wanted to make sure... the return just seemed to be a bit small of an oriface... doesn't have the same size hole as the AN-6 fitting that goes into it, so I just thought I'd make sure.

Thanks!