Boost pattern = 6-5-6... Help...

When I Boost I hear a loud whooshing sound and the car only makes 5 pounds steady...By the way I am running Non-Seq AND I noticed the car still has the Actuator (Turbo Prespool) looped into the Wastegate Actuator. Looking at the various diagrams I see that the Turbo prespool actuator has been deleted. Since in most of the diagrams it is not needed to run Non Seq should I just cap it off and call it a day?

 

if you are running the stock y-pipe, the coupler connecting to the crossover tube may have come loose. happened to me a few years ago. i would start there... good luck

 

No... we're looking at more of an issue than that it seems... Here's a pic of what im working with in terms of the Non-Seq setup... Something doesnt smell quite right here. Any suggestions??? When I say something doesnt seem right I mean I have both actuators and im not maintaining boost at all. Does this setup seem wrong to anyone else??? Now one way I can get boost steadily is if I run a hose from the crv outlet directly into the BOV outlet... That seems the only way I can get 7psi with no problems.

 

OK next question... the car seems to let out retarded amounts of smoke after I let off the throttle when driving. Like when I come to a complete stop the car smokes like crazy but when im driving and putting load on the car no smoke... Any help would be appreciated.

 

I'm trying to count the number of times I've seen thread titles like this one....lol

First thing that comes to mind, is check your vacuum lines! Make sure they are properly hooked up to your wastegate, etc. Check for leaks, too! If everything were hooked up right, there's no other feasible reason I can come up with that would explain LOW boost...

Oh and that "WHOOOOSH" sound is BAAAAAAAAAAAADDD!!!! In my first FD, I would boost a little more than stock, running my poor man's non-sequential, and then when I'd shift into the next gear, the car would only build 5-psi and then I'd get that horrible blowback sound. You NEED to check your boost levels! With free-flowing exhaust and a non-seq, if you are running any more than 9ish psi, you're likely to run into the same problem I had, where the ECU was causing pre-detonation and I eventually blew the motor..

Also, regarding the smoke, you may want to go ahead and check your plugs. 3,000 miles on the FD spark plugs is more a "Guideline" but based on your driving, that can obviously be less.

You need to be careful, man. Double check your non-sequential setup vacuum lines. And if money permits, you should really consider getting a Power FC as soon as possible.

 

The whoosh sound is probably a boost leak. Find it and you'll find full boost.

 

Are you still running the stock intercooler? If so check the all intercooler pipes, couplers and the intercooler it self. The rubber that connects the intercooler has a tendency to fail sometimes.

 

The smoke sounds more of a seal broken on one of the turbos. It happens when the car decelerates but as soon as it has load its fine.

I will def recheck the vac lines though. Thanxs guys. Hoping to give you positive feedback on the issues.

 

If I understand you correctly you are running a straight hose from the two spots on the ypipe where the CRV and BOV are hooked up from the factory?

Seems like a simple fix if you are eliminating them, the whooshing sound is almost always a leak around the BOV or CRV. Looks like someone just did the Poor Mans non-seq on your car, I have seen the other actuators left on numerous times. Ive never heard a whooshing sound come from one of the stock IC pipes or Couplers, but have heard it come from failing BOVs and CRVs.

 

Correct. I have the hose from the CRV outlet goin into the crv then venting to the air and I have the BOV hose from the BOV outlet going into the BOV then venting to the air.

What I was saying though is that if I eliminate the BOV and CRV and connect a hose to both outlets ( recirculating ) then I can hit 7 lbs of boost all day long. Now with the Non-Seq right now I AM NOT running a boost controller of any kind.

Ideas would help alot as this is my first FD and I bought my car pre moded...

 

You should not remove or disable both valves because it's there to relieve stress on the turbos.

Running both the CRV and ABV as blowoffs is a good idea (per the nonsequential diagrams), but if one of them is not functioning is perfectly fine. I would remove each one from the system and see if running one alone stops the whooshing sound. That's when you know you've found the problem. Be very careful, you might find you have uncontrollable boost once things are working properly.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1208733377

 

cool cool. Ill try tomorrow and see what happens. Also how easy is it to repair the seal on the turbo to stop the car from smoking? Its really getting annoying and im tired of getting pulled over and asked if my motor has blown... lol

 

Rebuilding FD turbos generally doesn't work out well. Best off to get a good used set from the classifieds or buy a new set.

Dave

 

That would be a turbo rebuild. It's hard to come by rebuild kits these days for these turbos. In most cases, it's easier and more economical to just buy a good used set. They typically sell for $300 or less for a decent pair.

 

Perfect advice, sorry I didnt get to respond back to your thread sooner. Do as he says and remove one at a time while block off the other outlet and see if this fixes your problem. I say you have the problem pretty much pinpointed at this time, just remove and cap the one that isnt holding pressure and you will be good to go. 7lbs is the correct pressure you should see with the restrictor pills removed.

 

Yeah, I took off the CRV and i'm getting about 7lbs steady now and no whooshing sound. Btw does anyone have a pic of what the hell the restictor pills look like? Its been driving me crazy for a while now.

 

They are basically just carburator jets, do yourself a favor and buy a decent manual boost controller or an EBC and dont fight with the restrictor pills. If you have a full exhaust it is likely they will cause you to overboost anyway.

David

 

Nice nice...well it seems that blocking off the crv port and leaving the BOV has solved the problem pretty much of the whooshing sound. I get about 7 psi (though not steady) and the car seems to pull. So next step is getting a MBC... but we still have the issue of a possible seal on the rear turbo being blown....per the puff of blueish smoke i leave behind anytime i come to a stop...

Lady at McDonalds drive thru - "Sir your car is on fire."
Me - "Na im just leaking out the backside..."
Lady at drive thru - "Hmmmmmmmm...ok"

hahahahaha... yeaaaa

Anyone got any twins they wanna sell? Can't afford to go single as yet...boooo

 

Eliminate TC actuator. If you are running non sequential a few items need to be addressed other than just removing a few vacuum lines. Very simple but to do it properly the turbos need to come off. I did it in 1 day. Does require machine work though.

http://www.fd3s.net/non-sequential.html#NON