Master Yoda, what kind of water/meth are you guys using? ie what cc and mix?

 

^^^^^^^^^And here comes the hundreds of questions

 

This whole build is starting to sound a little fishy, if I can't get a ride, videos, a build sheet, and a test drive I call BS !

Seriously your results are TEN times better than going single IMO !!!!

 

Ive said for years it was doable to hit 400rwhp sequential, even with the old style stage 3s. These results are incredible. This thread has made me decide to ditch the 62/66 and go with a set of new sequential stage 3s.

Another question, how is the transition? Did you guys lower it to make it less violent or left it as is?

 

Master Luke,
We used a 50/50 mix and a 415 cc jet. From a fuel standpoint the rewired 340 is what really helped. We knew fuel was going to be an issue so we planned ahead for it.

 

Dj,
By downsizing the pills on the PSA the second turbo does come on a bit harder but we wanted fast spool on the first turbo, it was a trade off. The second turbo does come on strong but the 'seat of the pants feel' isn't really much different than a strong high boosted stock twin car.

 

Word. I just upgraded my old school Aquamist 1s system from 325cc to 525cc fluid, planning to move from the blue stuff (windshield wiper fluid) to the red stuff (50/50 boost juice) which I may cut with distilled water to make it 70/30.

 

this thread makes me all tingly inside, cause im building about the same setup as this now..!

One small Q.
I am abit confused over the "pills" part... i have a terminology/part understanding issue due to language(im norwegian).

The vacume setup has theese check valves, i bought a spankin new aezknights solenoid setup, witch had new check valves, and goes in the lines there..but..
the pills you are talking about.. where are they located, what do they look like(images if you can), and what do they do? And how to get bigger/smaller pills..

 

I have 550 & 1300, with an IRP stage 3 large street port (that my brother built for me), supporting mods, and I am seeing 85-90% duty inj cycle at 1.0 bar on the PFC @ 10.9-11.0 afr., but my fuel pump is not hot wired and I am injecting windshield washer fluid, so there's the difference. Amazing numbers and congrats!

 

^he also has the RP competition fuel pump with a stouter ground but the 'non-hotwire' mod for now.

 

2000 IDs to come in the future for high boost

 

I would stay away from windshield wiper fluid as it usually has a detergent in it which eats metal, you can usually tell by looking at the throttle body. Shake the bottle of windshield wiper fluid and if you see it bubble it's detergent.

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...on-test-5.html

 

There are two hoses that go into the two actuators if you are looking down at the turbos. The actuators are in the front. Both actuators have pills in the hoses. The short hose is the waste gate and the long hose is the PCA.
You put smaller pills into the PCA to limit pre spool of the second turbo but it will hit harder when it comes on. If you put a smaller pill in the waste gate hose your boost will increase but be very careful as you can over boost and get detonation, which is not good.

Turn down the duty cycles and slowly increase them.

http://robrobinette.com/boost_controller.htm

I used pills instead of the adjustable valves on this site. You also may want to just buy an aftermarket electronic boost controller.

 

it is much more fun this way, i enjoy them, 18psi on seq.. but im ready to go single turbo now.... just no funds for it.

rich iv been wanting to run boost juice, but i hate that you have to order 4 of them at a time

 

Sorry if I missed it but OEM solenoids or aftermarket?

 

Dj,
Not sure if that was directed my way but we are running the stock OEM solenoids.

 

I'm a noob... what exactly is pre-spool? If the second turbo is coming on faster/earlier why is it "hitting harder"?

 

The exhaust is routed to the primary turbo for faster lower engine throttle response. The downside to this approach is the 2nd turbo is not pre spooled quite as much so when it does engage.....the transition is not quite as smooth - it hits "harder" (which doesn't bother me a bit because its just much more dramatic than a high boosted car using stock turbos).

BTW, no need for the dunce hat - the forum is here to exchange knowledge. Later!

 

While the idea of running BNRs sequential sounds fun, I can't see ever going back to a rat's nest, even a simplified one

 

Whys that? If its about reliability of the solenoids, there is a group buy going on for the sequential system

 

Believe, I hate dealing with sequential issues, when you own as many fds as I have had you just swap everything to non-seq. However, for a car you plan to keep, spend the $4-600.00 to replace everything and not worry about it. Once done right there are no worries, and even with the stock twins the sequential setup is about as fun as it gets around town from stop light to stop light or on some back roads.

 

Hey guys, I know this thread is too old, but one question.
Can I just replace my stock turbos with the BNR?
2 guys told me that I have to upgrade the injectors and fuel system or otherwise I'll blow up my motor.
My 7 has a Greddy Electronic Boost Controller, RE Amemiya Large SMIC and also the mods are in my signature below .

Thanks

 

The turbos by themselves won't pop your motor. Running more boost than fuel will. There's not a lot of point in running BNRs if you're not gonna up the boost.

 

Both the 93 and 99 twins have the small shafts and outdated 270 degree thrust bearings. The BNR twins are completely new Garrett GT28 cartridges. They have larger shafts and 360 degree thrust bearings like all modern turbos should. You can bolt them onto a completely stock car if you keep the boost down. If you want more power in the future, you will have the potential there. I have plenty of customers who had bad stock turbos and went with BNRs because they are a better choice than the outdated Mazda parts, not because they wanted more power. Later you could add a downpipe and power fc, and have a nice power increase over stock and turbos that don't start puking oil every few years.

 

Install BNR on my car last summer had it tune it make 310 hp at 1.04 bar. Not saying BNR is bad turbo i love em but my HP is so low.Can some one tell me why my power is so low?Here is the mod i have BNR tubo,550cc 1700cc injector rewire Supar fuel pump,greddy smic ,AEM water injector with 500 cc nozzle ,down pipe Pettit High flow cat, RB cat back,HKS twin power, run all 9 plug .