I replaced both the clutch slave cylinder and clutch master cylinders. I am having trouble bleeding the air out of the line and cylinders. The pedal releases the clutch but just barely and I have to pump the pedal to release enough to get into reverse. I suspect there is a small amount of air still trapped in the master cylinder. I have a speed bleeder ordered to install on the bleed screw of the slave cylinder to allow a larger volume of fluid to flush with each pedal stroke. Hopefully that will get rid of the air. Has anyone else had trouble bleeding the clutch hydraulic system? I bled the master cylinder separately after installing, but still think there is air trapped in it.

 

Just keep bleeding it took me a long time when I replaced my slave cylinder. I used a one man bleeder witch helped me figure out when I got all the air out.

 

tafkamb2- I was wondering if this was a common problem. I have bled a lot of brakes, and m-cylinders and sometimes the orientation of the interior of the cylinder prevents the air from going out the line. Air will not go down hill, unlike water.

 

So are you suggesting putting the back of the car in the air? Hadn't thought of that, but I've bled and bled but still suspect some air is in mine as well.

 

Did you try bench bleeding the clutch master? Disconnect the flare fitting on top of the clutch master and attach one of the plastic fittings and some longer vacuum line so it'll reach the brake fluid reservoir. When you pump the clutch pedal, do it slowly. I just replaced my clutch master and brake master also. You could also try using a motive power bleeder, they're not that expensive.

 

Scrub- I did pressure bleed the master cylinder after it was on the car, letting the fluid and air leak out the fitting to the slave cylinder, but think there still may be an air bubble in it.

Sgtblue's idea is interesting. Maybe I will put a chain on the front end loader of my tractor and hang the whole car up like a carp on a string and let the air rise to the top where it can be bled out.

 

I've had good success with Power Bleeders when it comes to clutches. You might see if someone local has one you could borrow. While I'm sure you know this, just make sure you aren't running the clutch side of the reservoir empty since the brake side will still look like you have fluid when bleeding.

 

Well, I took off the clutch master cylinder and bench bled it until it was full to the gills with fluid and no air. Plugged up the flexible line and threaded fitting and carefully re- installed it on the car, being careful to let no air get in. The f@#$%^g thing still will not bleed properly on the car. So I said f@#k it, went riding and took out my frustration on my horse. Tomorrow I will hook up the reservoir from my MityVac bleeder to the fluid inlet hose and and pressurize it and hope that sending pressurized fluid in will get out whatever air is hiding in the line or cylinder(s) or wherever it is.

 

masters have an internal bypass that can stick open. may have gotten a defective master.

 

Pull out the slave and let it hang by the fluid line with the bleed screw being higher than the rod end. Lossen the bleed screw and the air will come out.

 

Well, I put a Speed bleeder on the slave cylinder bleed screw and got all the air out. Thought I was home free until the newly working hydraulic system finished off what the real problem was- a broken clutch release fork. It must have been partially bent/cracked and gave only a partial release. It broke completely in traffic- of course- so I got to drive without a clutch- upshift OK, but had to turn off the ignition, put it in first gear and start it and lurch forward at every stoplight. Now I get to find out how good my local redneck mechanic is. I do not feel like lying on my back on a creeper to fix the fxxxxing thing and all of the FD specialty shops have moved out of reasonable towing/rollback distance.

Has anyone else had the release fork break when installing an aftermarket pressure plate with stronger springs than the stock p-plate?