technonovice

Removing the turbos I snapped about 1/2 inch off the end of one of the studs. There is pleny of thread to get a nut on it, but not two for the double nut trick. I am considering stud removal tools:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/searc...&gobutton=find
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker...EGRN%7C%7Etrue
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92866
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=5237

Anyone have any experience with similar tools?

Dezigns

Did the same thing last weekend with the rear stud on the exhaust manifold. STILL trying to get it out
Had enough room to double nut it, but it still wouldnt budge.
Tried to use a stud remover similar to the first one in the sears link. However it would hit the intake manifold whenever it was tight enough to actually make a turn.
Then miged a nut onto the end of the stud, and it snapped off flush with the housing

Have ended up buying a 90 degree air powered drill and heating the housing up. Coming out, but very very slowly.

tdazmansFD

iTrader: (1)

The Sears Stud removal worked GREAT for me! After a day of Vise Grips and headaches I finally decided to seach for tools to avoid removing the twins and discovered those things. (I broke a total of 3 out of 4 studs with just enough to get something on it)(. Get their kit with all the different sizes in it and use the smallest one possible on the studs. It should work.
Also, I heated them up first with a propane torch to help with removal After buying those things I found that I've needed them often for other projects as-well. Great Investment!

technonovice

Which set exactly did you get? I see three different ones listed.

tdazmansFD

iTrader: (1)

I got the 13PC set. Mine was $59.00 then WTF? lol

I forget what size I used, but it was just enough to bite onto the end of the stud. Good luck! let me know how it works, Dan

dpeak

Try the stud removers like the autozone ones first, you should have enough thread left to work with. Before doing that, spray it good with Kroil or PB Blaster and let it sit for a while. Also, heat the area around the stud with a torch good and tap with a hammer. If you don't have a torch, hook some jumper cables to the battery(while disconnected!!), ground the engine and put the positive end on the stud for a few seconds. Then try the stud remover. If that doesn't work, try drilling it out with some short left handed drill bits or the screw extractors they sell at sears. Last resort is a dremel tool. Good luck

quid

This sounds like a lot of work but it really isn't. Take the turbos off of the car, put them on a bench with the studs facing down and spray PB or some other type of penetrant in the back of the hole. Over night, the penetrant will soak through and you will be able to pull out the stud. This happend to me and I tried every trick in the book. I am willing to bet there is somesurface rust binding the stud to the cast manifold. Good luck.

Quid

technonovice

The turbos are off. The broken stud is not a down pipe stud. Its a turbo to manifold stud. I guess worst case, I can remove the exhaust manifold and machine it out. I am hoping to avoid that and have my new turbos in Saturday.

quid

Oh, my bad bro. I thought you meant the down pipe studs. Good luck with that and be sure to let us know how you get it out.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952162000

It says bolt remover, but works great on any fastener. I actually pulled the studs out of my cat with this sucker, worked VERY well. But, time, patience, and a light touch is required when dealing with damaged exhaust fasteners!

Dale

technonovice

Well the manifold must come off. I sheared the stud again this time with nothing left to grab. Hopefully those four studs will be cooperative.