I've been searching the forums and have not found any how to with detailed pictures and documentation on relocating a battery to the Trunk. Does anyone have such a how to or website I can read?

 

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/battery_relo.html

i am not trying to stalk you, you are just asking questions i have the answer to.

i've got a better link at home for Triple R website. if no1 posts it before this evening i will link you to that one too.

 

Take a look through the FAQ thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

 

I relocated my battery to the rear storage compartment behind the pasenger seat. Just hook your power cabel to the stock conection using like a 1g wire and ground as close to the battery as posible. Run your power cable through the fire wall or under the car and clamp it up tight and KEEP AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS.

 

I did the same thing. I cut out the "front" half of the inside of the bin so it still looks like there is a bin there, and then made a brace for over the battery and a cover plate over everything so I still have a good 3" of usable space in the bin.

X...

 

Try Crispy's page, he's got a great detailed install on battery relocation


http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/batrelo.htm

 

When relocating to the trunk, line up carefully where the holes in the trunk should be drilled to mount your hold down because you have a small area (6 inches wide?) to work with that is accessible from underneath the car.

 

Here's the scoop. I have a Greddy fmic w/ koyo upright mounted radiator. I started with the hawker pc680 and it would crank if i started the car every day. so I upgraded to a hawker 925. It works well but if the car sits for more than a week forget it. I want to be able to install a battery that will crank the car if it sits for 3 weeks or so.

 

I'm working on my own little custom relocation right now. I'll post a write up when it's all finished, but here are a few preview pictures

equipment (most of it):


box


back plate i had to make to keep batter from falling out.

 

Looks nice but those nuts are gonna break loose. Welding was invented 2 years after epoxy

 

the nuts only have to hold untill the bolt is tight, and not everyone has access to welding equipment....JB weld is pretty strong as well. I wouldn't be to worried about it.

 

That 680 wont be enough battery for you. I used one for the last 2 years and got fed up. It only will hold a charge for a couple of days and wont crank fast enough to start the car. While You got the bins out put a big Optima in there and be done with it.

 

i agree

 

I've used it for the last year and a half and it worked fine for me.

 

Well I hope the troubles with the 680 are being exaggerated or are not necessarily universal. I just mounted one in a storage bin and it is working great so far. It sat for 2 months unused and sits for 4-5 days between starts (it has been 40-60 degrees F in the garage) yet it has had no problem starting the car. It doesn't crank as fast as a full-size battery but it gets the job done - so far -

Be VERY careful when mounting a battery in the driver's side bin. Clearances are very tight when drilling through the floor pan - fuel lines are right there where you're going to want to drill. Measure measure measure and double check before drilling. I opted for driver side so that the passenger side bin is still usable for "stuff".

Scrub, what's the sheet of plywood for? One handy tool you might want is a "Roto-Zip" for cutting the bin. Probably other ways to do it, but it made the job very easy.

 

I had a 680 for a few months and got fed up with it. I took it back and got a 925. Still not good enough. I want to get a yellow top odyssey and be done with it. The problem is where to mount it.

PS: i carry a portable jump starting box in the RX7 because of these hawkers.

 

I guess some people have problems with them and some don't. I am also relocating the 2 driver side fuse boxes to that bin as well so the ply wood is to make a sort or shroud to cover up un used space in that bin and to mount things on. It will have some sort of carpet on it when I'm all done. I already cut out the bin and mounted the battery, that was the easy part. I decided to put mine in the passenger bin.

 

Okay I got the battery mounted, now I'm just trying to figure out what configuration i want to put the fuse boxes in. I know I'm supposed to use a circuit breaker, and I have a 200 amp one, but I'm not really positive if it's necessary now that I have the fuse box right next to the battery. Jimlab wanna shed some light on this?

 

so after sitting for two months ur car started no problem with out carging or boost. damm u must of got a special one

 

damm that's a good idea moving the fuse boxes. I think I'm gonna have to do that now. Now why didn't i think about that dammit, I guess some people are just smarter. hahaha. I don't think u would need a circuit breaker since the fuses are so close. It's pretty much the same as whem the bat. was mounted under the hood. Although a cicuit breaker would be good for theft prevention.

 

If nothing else, the breaker is nice for a quick battery disconnect. *click*

Did you mount the battery to anything other than the plastic bin? I don't think that will pass a tech inspection. You'll want it secured to the floor pan.

 

here's mine:



rick from ricks rotary here down in pleasanton, ca did a very clean install for me. the battery is a miata battery. he did tell me to get it bolted down for safety reasons and for regulations when tracking and racing. but its so snug that it hasn't moved an inch yet, even under hard driving conditions. no problems with battery dieing out. only drive the car about twice a week too (tuesdays and thursdays).

just giving you more ideas/options,
chris

 

that looks pretty clean except for the fact that it's not a dry cell battery...I'm pretty sure that should be in a sealed box.

My battery is bolted to an aluminum backing plate, it shouldn't have a problem passing inspection. That baby isn't going anywhere, it's held down by six 12mm bolts.

I'm still unsure if it would be better to bolt the fuse box directly to the battery, or put a terminal connector on it and have terminals.

 

hi,

i've adressed the same question to my mechanic. from what i understood, in a miata car, the battery is located away from the engine bay. so as for leaking, i think the battery's design has taken leaking into consideration. i want to say that its leak proof, but i'm not 100% sure. i'm looking into today in bolting the battery down good with some general battery tie downs from a local auto parts store.

chris

 

anything with liquid inside will have a chance of leaking, so personally i wouldn't want to put that inside the cabin. Also most batt. have a small hole for gasses to be released into the atmosphere. But if the maita batt. is originally mounted inside the cab it should be a sealed one and you should have no problems.

As for mounting the fuse box inside the cabin i remebered why i didn't want to do that, cause i would have to rewire everything to go to the back, which is a lot of work. But it would look a lot cleaner.