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Ball joint replacement?

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Old 12-29-08 | 01:23 PM
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Ball joint replacement?

Has anyone ever located replacement ball joints for the front suspension? All the searches I've done have turned up with the same answer: replace the whole arm.
Old 12-29-08 | 01:39 PM
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Even if you could get the ball joint out, it is not clear that it would be easy to find an appropriate replacement. The labour of removing and reinstalling would probably far outstrip the cost of a new arm.
Old 12-29-08 | 01:57 PM
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I've never even seen a definitive write-up on how to test/confirm if your ball-joins are any good or not.

It would seem like it might be possible to replace and reseal them, I think I've seen replacements for "non-replaceable" joints for BMWs and such. The new arm are SERIOUSLY expensive. Like not funny.
Old 12-29-08 | 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by moconnor
Even if you could get the ball joint out, it is not clear that it would be easy to find an appropriate replacement. The labour of removing and reinstalling would probably far outstrip the cost of a new arm.
I can do all the work myself and it only takes 15 minutes to press out/press in a new ball joint with the proper tools... That's only if the parts are available though

Originally Posted by ptrhahn
I've never even seen a definitive write-up on how to test/confirm if your ball-joins are any good or not.

It would seem like it might be possible to replace and reseal them, I think I've seen replacements for "non-replaceable" joints for BMWs and such. The new arm are SERIOUSLY expensive. Like not funny.
The boots on mine are destroyed. If I cannot find a replacement part, maybe I can repack the joint and replace just the boot. Otherwise they seem to be fine and the car never sees any bad weather so I think the joints themselves should be okay. My other car has factory-non-replaceable ball joints and requires an entire replacement control arm, but NAPA sells a replacement joint that works great. That's kind of why I was hoping a similar thing would be available for the FD but so far I've had no luck finding one.
Old 12-29-08 | 02:07 PM
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^^^

You'd probably have to get an old arm and press one out, so you can start comparison shopping.It sure would be a major find if it existed.
Old 12-29-08 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ptrhahn
I've never even seen a definitive write-up on how to test/confirm if your ball-joins are any good or not.
The FSM has a test procedure, thought you will need a dial indicator.
Old 12-29-08 | 03:14 PM
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There has been discussions here long ago. But nobody ever came up with an alernative. So for now, it's a new arm


Later
Old 12-29-08 | 03:39 PM
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I have yet to take a look at it, but it has been suggested that like some other manufacturers, the ball joint may be cast into the arm and therefore is not removable at all. I will take a look at it soon and report back.
Old 12-29-08 | 05:26 PM
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The FSM test procedure looks like a Rube Goldberg deal.
Old 12-29-08 | 05:34 PM
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mazda dosnt offer a replacement
Old 12-29-08 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by fd3sttre
mazda dosnt offer a replacement
Not to be a dick, but that's been obvious for a while now. They do sell the entire arms though.
Old 12-29-08 | 07:13 PM
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You can buy new boots. Call Ray he gots them
Old 12-29-08 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Doc-1
You can buy new boots. Call Ray he gots them
Good info, thanks!
Old 12-29-08 | 08:44 PM
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There's got to be a replacement out there—Mazda would just rather sell you $1500 worth of arms.
Old 12-29-08 | 10:23 PM
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ok well.. i just changed mine on my car.. or was going to but you can go to auto zone and rent the tool to push them out and then you can get replacements for it but them you have to weld them on to the arm (yes it has been done) but reason you have to weld them is because they can fall out if you don't,

or you can just get new arms i would just find a set of used stock ones because no one makes really a good replacement from what im told by RP,

so with all that said good luck
Old 12-29-08 | 10:45 PM
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Care to share info on the available replacements?
Old 12-30-08 | 12:07 AM
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I don't know where exactly but it would just be like a cheep like auto zone brand it would take more looking at local car shops to find one that you could use but like i said you would have to weld it or find some way to make it stay really good or it will fall out... but i would have to say just get some used ones if you can find them
Old 12-30-08 | 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by smcginnis88
I don't know where exactly but it would just be like a cheep like auto zone brand it would take more looking at local car shops to find one that you could use
Could you vague it up a little bit more?

The question is how would one source a ball joint with the correct diameter ball, correct rod length, thread etc.
Old 12-30-08 | 03:22 AM
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what about pressing them out... machining the arm for a readily available joint, and pressing a slightly larger ball in?

I am just tossing out ideas.
Old 12-30-08 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmitageGVR4
The boots on mine are destroyed. If I cannot find a replacement part, maybe I can repack the joint and replace just the boot. Otherwise they seem to be fine and the car never sees any bad weather so I think the joints themselves should be okay.
^^ I'm in the same situation, I verified mine were split very recently. I was wondering the same thing about how to check the joints for integrity... bump for you and me both.
Old 12-30-08 | 01:52 PM
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As others have stated, the boots and clips can be purchased from Ray at Malloy for a few dollars. Very cheap. You'll need to clean and repack them with the appropriate grease when replacing the boots.

The FSM does have a procedure for testing the ball joints but it is awkwardly explained at best. There was an old post from max cooper about possibly using a fish scale to replicate the factory tool that I'm sure no factory technician ever used. It is very difficult for the home mechanic to accurately test ball joints...

I replaced all 4 of the front control arms on my car last year. It was expensive but since the car already has 130,000 + miles I figured it was time. Plus the OEM parts aren't getting any cheaper. It made a nice difference in my car and I believe I created a thread about it if anyone cares to search for it.

A very competent machinist might be able to machine out the OEM ball joint and replace it with another aftermarket one but the time and cost involved in reliably doing so probably won't be cheap. I know I like to get paid for time spent working...

I'd like to hear about other ideas. One idea that has been expressed before is replacing the OEM control arms with aftermarket control arms, I don't see an easy, well priced, reliable way to go about this.
Old 12-30-08 | 04:17 PM
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How tough would it be to maintain the exact suspension geometry with aftermarket?
Old 12-30-08 | 04:24 PM
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What exactly is this part:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Mazd...3S-RX-7-51515#

The site lists "pillow *****" and bushings separately, as well as the ball joint boots referenced here. Is this not the ball joint itself?
Old 12-30-08 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ptrhahn
What exactly is this part:

http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Mazd...3S-RX-7-51515#

The site lists "pillow *****" and bushings separately, as well as the ball joint boots referenced here. Is this not the ball joint itself?
That part number (8AB232280) is for tie rods according to mazdapartscheap.com.
Old 12-30-08 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Monkman33
How tough would it be to maintain the exact suspension geometry with aftermarket?
Apparently aftermarket A-arms are available. But it'll cost more than an OEM replacement anyway.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=512

Notice how in the picture, like other cars that have replaceable ball joints, they're held in with a snap ring. If our cars don't have one, I can understand why it has been said that they will just fall out if not welded in place. An alternative is to have a lip machined in the control arm so you can use a suitable replacement joint with snap ring. Though if they weren't manufactured like that I wonder if there's a reason for it. Perhaps the OEM aluminum piece isn't strong enough to retain the joint this way?



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