Those anybody know how get my speedometer and my tach to work? My FD was auto and was swapped to manual.

 

Buy a wiring diagram, because once you swap transmissions from auto to manual you're going to have a lot of issues getting everything working correctly. I ended up completely rewiring my car twice before I got mine fixed. I bought all new harnesses and modified them to work with my needs.

I think you can connect the sending unit to the speedometer via 18 gauge wire to the X-11 connector or one next to that. If I'm not mistaken the wire you're looking for is green/blue. Don't trust me though.

I've got a spare main harness if you decide to swap the harnesses though. Hit me up. 1994 front main harness (inside fenders, front bumper, etc) $400.

 

swapped my car (and a few friends) all we did was use the Auto tran's speed sensor in the manual trans. the auto had sensor, wires, then plug. the manual just had the plug on the sensor itself. just plugged it into the auto "emission" (engine) harness and zip tied all the other plugs up out of the way and speedo and tach worked for me...

if both are not working, check a wiring diagram and check your grounds for your dash

 

Same problem here. Subscribing.

 

I can help anybody resolve this issue and any other Auto to manual swap electrical problems - but first make sure you have searched and looked over the wiring diagrams to fix it yourself.



LAter

 

This is what was done so far:
swapped transmission (using auto speedo drive gear)
connecting the two terminals on the grey rectangular
swapped ecu to PFC

still nothing...

 

Here is how to fix the problem...... FIRST - step one. You did not bother the DASH harness - correct ?? If answer is NO, then very good, proceed to step two. If yes, you need to see another thread.

Step two- get under the glove box side of the dash and find the big white connector X-14 ( it has 17 wires for an automatic ). Find the Yellow/red stripe and Yellow/white stripe wires on the DASH side on the connector. Cut them loose from the connector so you have about 4" of wire to work with.

Step three - run a length of wire from the Y/R wire on thru the firewall and down toward the transmission. Run a similar length from the Y/W wire.

Step four - On the manual trans, pass side is the speedo sensor. Take the connector off the small steel panel that holds it on the driver side. Look at the connector straight onward, note where the harness male connector snaps into the speedo connector. With the snap point on top ( connector release ) the wire to the left will connect to the Y/R and the wire to the right will connect to the Y/W wire. Cut the connector off and wire them up temporarily. Now your Speedo is wired directly to the harness going to the dash Speedometer.

Step Five - take the car around the block. Does the Speedo work now ? If yes, solder the connections, tape them up and secure the wires. If no, reverse the wires at the transmission, repeat. It should work, if not then something is wrong with the Speedometer or the dash harness ( but you didn't touch it, right ? )


LAter

 

Have a donation site setup? Thanks alot for the help. If this isn't already in a sticky somewhere....it needs to be one.

 

Has anyone every figured the most productive way to do an Auto to Manual swap? Is it easier to stick with the auto dash and auto engine harness and cut/splice or get a manual dash harness and manual engine harness? Please provide your input as I might be doing one very soon for a friend

 

+1. If everything is hooked up correctly, there shouldn't be a problem

Doing it w/ the auto harness will save a load of time. If the auto gauge cluster bothers you, do what I did and swap out the tach face for a manual one. Once I get a PFC that 7k redline won't be there anymore.

 

Here, in my opinion, is the way and only way the Auto to Manual swap should be done - considering the harness/electrical.

Use all of your Automatic harnesses. DO- remove the auto harness from the motor ( during the swap ) and break it down. Remove all the unwanted solenoid wires, repair other broken wires, add a couple signal wires for future gauges, and lastly ADD the section of manual transmission wires from a 5 speed transmission. Yes, you may need to buy a scrap manual engine harness to get it, but I bought three transmission harness pieces from members here for my swaps. So you add the trans harness piece into your automatic harness and bring all the wires ( 10 or 12 if I remember right ) right along the auto harness and into the cabin for tie-in later.

Now re-tape and loom up your auto harness and re-install it. You are ready for the final tie-in later. It is simply understanding the electrical drawings from there, but if you want hand holding, I can provide it.

Look at the picture below, you'll see the transmission harness with the 4 connectors - crucial to a proper swap. Picture titles them manual trans disconnects. Route them along the main harness into the cabin with plenty of wire to spare.


Later

 

^Thanks Tom, I figured the Auto/Auto route was the better idea. My friend sadly be staying with the complete stock twin turbo setup so no solenoids will be removed. I'll un-wrap the loom at the coil neck location to tie in the transmission wires and then re-wrap the loom. "Hand holding" is always nice but it shouldn't be that difficult. If you can "just" elaborate the connectors and the wires that I'll be tying the 4 transmission inputs to that would be the complete deal. Another question, will a manual gauge cluster plug into the dash harness? If not I guess I'll take one of my gauge clusters I use for parts and get rid of the PRNDL... Thanks again guys!

 

Instead of replacing the entire cluster, I think that it's possible to replace just the tachometer to get rid of the PRNDL lights.
Will have to figure out why the speedo isn't getting the signal from the transmission, the previous owner had ripped out the ABS electronic module and the ecus, so I have to learn as I go...

 

My recommendation if to leave the Auto Gauge cluster alone.

When the Auto Transmission is taken out the power to the dash lights go away. To make sure no power ever goes to them you can sever the following wires....

You simply cut off the following auto trans wires and the lights for L,S,D,N,P and R cease to exist. At X-14 cut off Br/w, L/R, Y/g, LG/W, R/L and Br/B on the dash side of the connector. Then add a column gauge pod from Pettit with a temperature gauge in it and you see them NO MORE. Not worth the work and risk of tearing the dash apart. That's the way I left all three of mine, never know the letters were there, can't see them


By cutting the above wires the lights no longer receive any 12v signal....ever.


Now, for getting those reverse lights to work will take some wiring to do. Very little, and very easy after the manual trans is in. Remember what I said about routing the manual trans wires along the harness and leaving slack inside the cabin..





Later

 

I can do this - no problem. But first - do I have everyone on board with what I'm saying so far ? Forget about pulling the gauge cluster, Pull the auto engine harness off and strip it down and rebuild WITH the man. trans harness in it, and you'll have your clutch pedal/brake pedal assembly with switches. On the clutch pedal, you'll see a small switch. You will probably not have the connector for it, does not matter. Carefully solder two insulated 16 gauge wires to the contacts inside the switch connector. Leave 4" of wire slack hanging out, strip the ends off 1/2".


These are top secret documents of the auto - manual tranformation that I have studied up on for ages until I was ready to do all three of my cars.....just kiddin'



Later

 

You're too funny Tom. Anyway, why does the factory temperature lose it's signal (reference to the column pod)? I have a whole FD for parts at my shop so I'll have the clutch safety switch. One more question I have, how bad is the 3.90 in the rear with the manual tranny? How much worse will it be than the 4.10? Thanks again Tom, if we ever get the opportunity to give Kudos or Karma points I'll send some your way...

 

I'm going to guess that it's a shared wire going into the auto ecu. Hence the minute you swap out the trans, a wire is disconnected somewhere and it loses the signal. That's why I'm also running an aftermarket temperature gauge.

 

You're too funny Tom. Anyway, why does the factory temperature lose it's signal (reference to the column pod)?


You want a reliable aftermarket temperature gauge mounted somewhere ( I choose the column here ) so that you can see the correct engine coolant temperature. The stock temp gauge is useless. NO, you will NOT lose your OEM temperature gauge while doing the swap. It is a dedicated single wire to the dash gauge. It'll stay there continuing to be useless.


Now about the rear diff ratio....I had a 390 for awhile. Hated it. I put Pettit 4.33 gears in all three of my cars. Love it. It all depends on what you want to do. You want to have a lot of top end - then 390, or bottom end 4.33 or in between - then 410.


Next question please..




LAter

 

Wow, what a good post!

If I may, let me ask a couple of related questions which have me stumped. Are the X-05 and X-14 connectors different on an AT Front harness and an AT Dash harness from an MT Front harness and MT Dash harness?

My '93 had a AT to MT swap done before I bought it. I have been looking to replace the ECU (a Microtech which had it's own engine harness) and I bought a used engine and emissions harness and have been going through it. However, the X-05 and X-14 connectors on my used harness (from a MT car) have different connector configurations. These connectors won't mate with what I have in my car. I have included pictures of both connectors so you can see what I am talking about.

The X-14 has had all the wires removed except two, which I assume (if I were to trace them) would run back to the transmission and allow the speedo to work. I guess the other wires run the little lights - P, N, D, etc. and aren't needed. What about the rest of the missing wires? Anything lost by not having them?

The X-05 has a jumper in it. Not sure why. Any ideas on that? Anything lost by not having the rest of the wires?

Thanks again for any help.

Jeff

 

If I may, let me ask a couple of related questions which have me stumped. Are the X-05 and X-14 connectors different on an AT Front harness and an AT Dash harness from an MT Front harness and MT Dash harness?


Yes- they are different- very different.



The jumper is for the starter circuit where the auto had the inhibitor switch. The wires connected are Black/red over to Blue/white. Want to clean it up ? Cut the two big wires off the connector and solder them together, tape them up good. Toss the jumper.

Another reason to NEVER get rid of your auto harnesses when performing the swap. Just modify them

Later

 

Thank you for the reply. What is an inhibitor switch?

 

It's a switch on the pass side of the auto transmission that senses Park and Neutral....thus allowing the starter path continuity.


Later