94rotorTT

Thanks guys for the advise about the open exhaust on a stock ecu. You were right, I jumped the gun and didn't research it too much because I didn't think it would cause that much danger.
I put a hi-flow cat on it and also got a boost and a a/f ratio gauge.
Just wanted to thank you for letting me know before it blew.

OKRX-7

I ran a stock ecu with a catless exhaust for a few months with no problems what so ever. As long as boost is regulated properly its fine. Wade Lanham even did some wideband tests to prove this theory.

rynberg

Unfortunately, an A/F ratio gauge that uses the stock narrowband O2 sensor is worthless. The readings will be completely useless to you under WOT, right where you need it to be accurate.

You can still blow a motor with a hi-flow cat, what you need to do is maintain 10 psi of boost, no matter the modifications, if you are still on the stock ecu.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

FD's stock run 10psi, correct?

Even with an APEXi boost-controller and S-AFC II, should I not try to run even 12psi with the stock ECU?

The car currently has just exhaust on it, besides drivetrain mods (clutch/flywheel/pressure-plate)... It's a full down-pipe, cat, and catback exhaust.

I was also debating between what's better to do first: Koyo radiator, or upgraded intercooler?

Help me too? :P

rynberg

An SAFC is practically worthless for an FD. No, you will still be limited to 10 psi with the stock ecu. A cheap and good solution for many is to run a chipped ecu like a Pettit or M2 ecu. They sell used for about $400 and are a direct swap in. Safe to run 12-13 psi.

If your radiator is in good condition, there is no reason to replace it. A higher flowing and more efficient intercooler is always a good mod (provided it's properly ducted!), as it makes the turbos work easier at the same boost level.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Ditch the SAFC and get as proper ecu. If you can afford and intercooler, you should be able to get something like a power fc. The SAFC is not a good solution because it does nothing for timing.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

Well, if I get this FD, it's already got some oldschool APEXi boost-controller, and then a black-face S-AFC II.

Initially, I really won't have spare money..

But wouldn't you agree, boost/power-related mods aside, the first reliability mod I should do would be either a radiator or FMIC? Which would you do first is my real question?

I don't care about pushing high boost...I don't even feel comfortable doing it on the stock twins anyways.

BTW..just how efficient IS the stock fuel-pump too? o_O?

MrRx

iTrader: (1)

good enought for 300 hp.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

What kind of horsepower would I be looking at with some 3" exhaust/cat/cat-back exhaust, intake, BOV (no hp addition, I know), and any tuning I do through the boost controller or S-AFC II?

And again, just what is the highest boost you can run safely with a setup like mine? o_O?

rynberg

You should not get an FD then.

Reliability mods have been posted many times and are thoroughly detailed in the FAQ thread. An FMIC is NOT a reliability mod....

The stock fuel pump is adequate to run the stock fuel injectors right up to 100% duty cycles...this is usually about 320-340 rwhp.

As has been already posted, you cannot run more than 10 psi on the stock ecu. Period! You should be able to make 260 rwhp or so with bolt-ons with the stock ecu.

Again though, if you buy an FD and will have no money left over, an FD is not for you.

YoshiFD3S

iTrader: (19)

LoL..

let me put it this way, sorry. I DO have spare money, in the bank, that hasn't even been touched..and my income is more than enough to pay for the car, cost of living, and even throw on nice mod every couple weeks or so.

I retract my "no money left-over statement"

Stop trying to scare me off from buying an FD. It's not gonna work. haha